Having trouble with my Tikka

[Wags]

I have a Tikka T3 that I am having a hard time getting groups out of. I checked the the bedding (factory synthetic stock) nothing is touching. The action screws are at spec. It does have a radial muzzle break on it, not sure if that could be causing the issue.... The scope mount and rings are good as well.

It shoots rougly 1.5 MOA with most ammo. The flip side is there is 1 load I have tried that it shoots SUB MOA with. I know every rifle has a node and maybe this is the one off rifle that simply will only eat 1 load to accuracy. I do not hand load yet, due to components being impossible to get I wont be able to get into it anytime soon either.

I'm not the greatest shot in the world but even my son shot SUB MOA with the 1 load out of literally 20 + loads I've put through it.

Does anyone have any ideas of what may cause this? Could the radial brake cause this?

Thanks in advance....

 

[Rob5589]

Can you remove the brake to see if it's the issue? Why not shoot the one load that is under a minute? 1.5 moa for a factory gun and factory ammo isn't unreasonable.

 

[Wags]

Can you remove the brake to see if it's the issue? Why not shoot the one load that is under a minute? 1.5 moa for a factory gun and factory ammo isn't unreasonable.

I can shoot the 1 load it likes, though I wasnt overly impressed with how it performed on live animals last year. All were dead with 1 shot kills but they seemed to be exploding on impact with no pass throughs or found slug's. All shots were under 300 yards on broad side deer / goats.

I can take it in and see if they can remove the brake and try it without. I wasnt sure if that could be the issue or not.

 

[Rob5589]

I can shoot the 1 load it likes, though I wasnt overly impressed with how it performed on live animals last year. All were dead with 1 shot kills but they seemed to be exploding on impact with no pass throughs or found slug's. All shots were under 300 yards on broad side deer / goats.

I can take it in and see if they can remove the brake and try it without. I wasnt sure if that could be the issue or not.

Did you ever shoot it prior to the brake? I've had several guns with brakes and never did one not shoot well. You may have a 1.5 moa gun and that is all there is to it. If you're shooting 300 and under, I would pick a good bullet that performs as you like and go with it.

 

[Wags]

Did you ever shoot it prior to the brake? I've had several guns with brakes and never did one not shoot well. You may have a 1.5 moa gun and that is all there is to it. If you're shooting 300 and under, I would pick a good bullet that performs as you like and go with it.

No, I bought it for my son and had it installed before I picked it up.

I'll try it without the brake and see what it does once I can get it removed.

 

[IrkedCitizen]

The gunsmith that installed the brake could have messed up the crown.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Have you tried thoroughly and properly cleaning it? If it has the old aluminum recoil lug or has evidence of pinging I would replace that with steel or titanium. On reassembly make sure the recoil lug is fully seated in the stock and in the action channel with the action screws barely snug and drop the butt of the stock against the floor a few times to seat, then torque to spec. As said above the crown may have gotten damaged during threading, I would have that checked. Worst case scenario if a gunsmith can break that barrel loose without damage (Tikka's are stubborn), you may be able to have them set the threads back a tad and freshen the chamber with a good reamer.

 

[CApighunter]

What cartridge and what load?

 

[Wags]

Have you tried thoroughly and properly cleaning it? If it has the old aluminum recoil lug or has evidence of pinging I would replace that with steel or titanium. On reassembly make sure the recoil lug is fully seated in the stock and in the action channel with the action screws barely snug and drop the butt of the stock against the floor a few times to seat, then torque to spec. As said above the crown may have gotten damaged during threading, I would have that checked. Worst case scenario if a gunsmith can break that barrel loose without damage (Tikka's are stubborn), you may be able to have them set the threads back a tad and freshen the chamber with a good reamer.

I'll pull it apart and check that. I replaced the lug with a steel one but I'll confirm that it's seated correctly.

I'm going to take it in and have the radial brake pulled. Then I'll be able to inspect it.

 

[Wags]

What cartridge and what load?

30.06..... It shoots the Hornady 178 ELDX lights out.

 

[CApighunter]

30.06..... It shoots the Hornady 178 ELDX lights out.

Interesting, I had a 300 win that shot the 200 eldx well but struggeled with most other loads. They were too explosive for my taste too, so I switched to the 180 TSX and it shot almost as good. Some barrels are just picky.

 

[Wags]

I pulled it apart tonight. The recoil lug looks fine. However there’s a shiny spot on each side of the barrel where the stock is contacting it. The finish is worn from it rubbing under recoil.

Anyone think this could be the issue?

 

[JeffRaines]

I pulled it apart tonight. The recoil lug looks fine. However there’s a shiny spot on each side of the barrel where the stock is contacting it. The finish is worn from it rubbing under recoil.

Anyone think this could be the issue?

View attachment 298381View attachment 298381

Absolutely.

If it’s rubbing under recoil then that means the entire barreled action is moving and that’ll play hell with your accuracy not to mention the fact that the barrel may not be free floated. I’d put it back together making sure you get it seated in the recoil lug appropriately and torque it back to factory specs with a torque wrench and give it another go.

 

[Tmac]

Flip the recoil lug? Especially if it shows wear, like a slight imprint. The old ones were known to be a problem in some cases. Shoot it and if that’s it, then order a hard metal one and make sure it fits tight, maybe even glass bed it. Cured my Tikka, but that one shot very well, then after hundreds of rounds groups loosened up. Flipped the lug and right back to a shooter it went. Replaced that lug and it still shoots well years later.

 

[Spoonbill]

I can shoot the 1 load it likes, though I wasnt overly impressed with how it performed on live animals last year. All were dead with 1 shot kills but they seemed to be exploding on impact with no pass throughs or found slug's. All shots were under 300 yards on broad side deer / goats.

I can take it in and see if they can remove the brake and try it without. I wasnt sure if that could be the issue or not.

If you had all one shot kills I would say the bullet did its job. What makes you think the bullets were exploding on impact, were the vitals still intact when you gutted the animals?

 

[Dioni A]

+ 1 on checking the lug fitment and crown. I would bet the rub mark is from stock flexing into the barrel not rubbing during recoil. Make sure your checking for free float with the gun on a bipod with your shoulder pushed into it. I bet it's free floated just sitting there but not when your behind it.

 

[Antares]

Is this a new or used gun? Any chance the barrel is shot out?

 

[Wags]

Absolutely.

If it’s rubbing under recoil then that means the entire barreled action is moving and that’ll play hell with your accuracy not to mention the fact that the barrel may not be free floated. I’d put it back together making sure you get it seated in the recoil lug appropriately and torque it back to factory specs with a torque wrench and give it another go.

I did that tonight. I'll get back out in a few weeks and shoot it again.

 

[Wags]

Flip the recoil lug? Especially if it shows wear, like a slight imprint. The old ones were known to be a problem in some cases. Shoot it and if that’s it, then order a hard metal one and make sure it fits tight, maybe even glass bed it. Cured my Tikka, but that one shot very well, then after hundreds of rounds groups loosened up. Flipped the lug and right back to a shooter it went. Replaced that lug and it still shoots well years later.

I had replaced it with a steel one already knowing they have been the weak point but I'll try that and see if it helps.

 

[Wags]

If you had all one shot kills I would say the bullet did its job. What makes you think the bullets were exploding on impact, were the vitals still intact when you gutted the animals?

I think that because of the wound channels. We're talking softball sized entry wounds with no exit. Not exactly what I'd expect on a doe @ 200 yards. All 4 animals had similar wound channels. Huge entry wounds, no exits.