Lightweight Rifles off Bipod

[General RE LEE]

My Tikkas are a UPR and CTR and the weight keeps them pretty steady off a bipod.

I got a Howa Mini 6mm ARC in a B&C stock that is pretty light. It’s real snappy/jumpy off bipod even with the light recoil. I think it’s a cause of erratic grouping.

Anyone find shooting a light rifle off a bipod semi-challenging?

 

[TN2shot07]

Both of my model sevens with short barrels are super jumpy on my small Spartan off the bench. The Spartan with longer legs and the hatch are better but they’re both sitting height. Curious to see if anybody has any tips, neither of mine are braked/suppressed

 

[General RE LEE]

Both of my model sevens with short barrels are super jumpy on my small Spartan off the bench. The Spartan with longer legs and the hatch are better but they’re both sitting height. Curious to see if anybody has any tips, neither of mine are braked/suppressed

I’m going to try running a brake to tame the jump. 6mm ARC should be easy to spot hits but the pencil barrel on the 22” Howa Mini likes to jump.

I can spot hits better with my 20” light palma contour 6.5 Creedmoor that is suppressed.

 

[General RE LEE]

Pic of the rifle. It needs to chill out a little at the shot.

 

[TxLite]

Have you put a suppressor on it? The extra weight up front will keep it flatter

 

[Article 4]

Making a gun heavier will reduce recoil. It takes more energy to move a heavier object.

Running lights rifles will always feel jumpy. Especially with the push for 5 and 6 lb rifles. My personal preference for almost any rifle, short of hunting high altitude goats or sheep, is a rifle that is around 10-12 lbs with glass. Not only is it more stable while shooting, it is more stable utilizing any bipods, tripods etc...

 

[General RE LEE]

Have you put a suppressor on it? The extra weight up front will keep it flatter

I’m going to try it.

 

[Jason Snyder]

They can be very finicky. I have a Kimber Hunter in 6.5 CM, so pretty mild recoil.

I have found I need to take my support hand and grip the forend in order to shoot it accurately. This will reduce my groups from about 1.5-2 MOA to 1-1.2 MOA. This holds true with a bipod.

A suppressor will definitely help.

 

[General RE LEE]

Have you put a suppressor on it? The extra weight up front will keep it flatter

I’m going to try it with a can.

 

[hereinaz]

Watch the video by Sniper’s Hide, bipods don’t hop…

It’s a matter of learning recoil management. Control the rear of the rifle with your support hand pinching the stock with your thumb and first finger. Control the middle by holding, not gripping with your trigger hand—neutral thumb.

It’s hard, but it works and improves shooting.

 

[hereinaz]

They can be very finicky. I have a Kimber Hunter in 6.5 CM, so pretty mild recoil.

I have found I need to take my support hand and grip the forend in order to shoot it accurately. This will reduce my groups from about 1.5-2 MOA to 1-1.2 MOA. This holds true with a bipod.

A suppressor will definitely help.

When shooting off a tripod with no rear support, I use my hand to press down on the forend/barrel. They definitely works.

There is a guy out of Australia or New Zealand, can’t remember, and he says that you should always hold the front of the rifle down.

It works as a technique, but it’s just a technique and works well for some positions and some rifles.

 

[Lawnboi]

All the technique won’t overcome stock geometry like that. That muzzle wants to rise because everything on the rest end of that stock is making it.

 

[hereinaz]

All the technique won’t overcome stock geometry like that. That muzzle wants to rise because everything on the rest end of that stock is making it.

Truth to this. Technique can’t overcome all geometry. Here is a good series on the mechanics of recoil, and why the closer to the boreline the rifle shoulder connection the less the rifle force will drive the muzzle up.

I’d still like to think you can tame it on a 6 ARC to make it much more shootable. There is an art to also using the body to absorb the recoil instead of creating a hard position that it bounces against. It will hop much less if it recoils into a pillow vs. recoiling against a brick wall.

It’s one reason why I am running higher scopes these days, puts my shoulder/collarbone at the top of the recoil pad to get the point of contact further up the buttpad.

Even with a Rokstock, if the scope is low, the point of contact with the shoulder can be low on the buttpad depending on the shooter’s own body structure and dimensions.

I see it frequently with taller shooters like me, that low scopes put the shoulder low and force you to crane the neck. That’s one reason why each rifle system includes the shooter and needs to be accounted for.

 

[Jason Snyder]

When shooting off a tripod with no rear support, I use my hand to press down on the forend/barrel. They definitely works.

I’ve tried putting my off hand on top of the scope and I couldn’t get the same results as I did by gripping the forend. Lightweight rifles are a finicky beast to shoot accurately. I’m still trying to gain consistency at longer ranges.

 

[hereinaz]

Yeah, there are lots of techniques and finding the one that works for you and your gear is the key. I guess a difference is that I am talking about when I shoot off a front bag, not a bipod. I can see where your technique is maybe better for that. I may try that next time.

Making decisions about technique is best informed knowing a little more about the dynamics of the rifle movement in recoil.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I guess a difference is that I am talking about when I shoot off a front bag, not a bipod. I can see where your technique is maybe better for that. I may try that next time.

I’ve had the same results with front bag and bipod both. But, I’m by no means a great rifle shooter.

I’m trying to envision how to push down on the barrel without a POI shift?

 

[hereinaz]

I’ve had the same results with front bag and bipod both. But, I’m by no means a great rifle shooter.

I’m trying to envision how to push down on the barrel without a POI shift?

Firm pressure with my hand mostly on the side of the stock and a little on the barrel has not shown a shift. The meat on my finger won’t affect harmonics like something hard or more pressure.

At least that is my story and I am sticking to it…

 

[Fireflyfishing]

Have you tried shooting prone?

 

[Article 4]

Watch the video by Sniper’s Hide, bipods don’t hop…

It’s a matter of learning recoil management. Control the rear of the rifle with your support hand pinching the stock with your thumb and first finger. Control the middle by holding, not gripping with your trigger hand—neutral thumb.

It’s hard, but it works and improves shooting.

This is true.
Probably wont completely eliminate the "hop" with a super light rifle in a heavy caliber but it will reduce it. Controlling how someone drives the rifle is often overlooked. "Guiding" the rifle recoil and allowing it to drive itself straight back with even and controlled pressure will help quite a bit.

 

[Mike D Texas]

That bipod is less than ideal for trying to load without a hard stop in front of it.

Also make sure you’re lining up directly behind the rifle and not to the side. Most benches aren’t built correctly to do this.


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