Muzzle break 338 win sporter barrel

[freediver111]

I have a win model 70 that went mostly unused until I took it to AK on a moose hunt this fall. After using it more recently, I’m realize it fills a niche in my collection. Going to do some load development and try some 230 gr eld-x hoping to push them around 2850 FPS. Thinking with that bullet and decent BC it might turn into my new mid to longish range gun for moose and elk.

Now the question is about a brake. I don’t mind hunting without a brake, but shooting it more than 10-15 rounds at the range sucks, which hampers practice.

This has a factory barrel and used to have an old Browning BOSS brake. The previous owner didn’t like the boss so had it chopped and the threads lathed smooth.

Does that preclude any brakes on the market that would work for a 338 win mag and sporter barrel? I could get a new barrel and brake, but the barrel shoots well and I’d rather put that money to next years moose hunt if possible.

I looked at the micro bastard brake but they aren’t available for 338. I also don’t like radial brakes due to the gases flying around in prone position.

Anybody know what my options are? Thanks!


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[Clarktar]

Check your muzzle diameter with some calipers. That will help you scratch some off the list as you look at the required muzzle diameter. My wild ass guess is you have plenty of meat left at the muzzle

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[Bubblehide]

It depends on how theradable the barrel is. But it does not preclude you from adding a break. You just might need to take a nontraditional route in attaching the break. For example, using set screws and have a indent on the barrel to set into, instead of threading it on. Or drilling and taping the barrel for those set screws. Any machinist could make a break and utilize that method.

 

[Scoony]

I had a Dakota 97 in 338WM. I never did shoot it without the brake, but with the brake, I could shoot 60+ rounds at the bench a session without any problems. Was similar to shooting my 308. For a comparison, I also have a Ruger American in 30-06. Shooting 20 rounds in that 30-06, and i am done. The brake made that 338WM very enjoyable to shoot. Some complain about the noise of a brake, but guns are loud anyways and I never notice the difference behind the stock.

I don't have that Dakota anymore, but I did just pick up a Ruger #1 in 338WM and look forward to shooting it. I am waiting on a tax stamp for a silencer that will work up to 45 cal so I am debating on getting that Ruger #1 barrel threaded just in case I want to mount it.

 

[freediver111]

So for reference the end of my barrel is 0.515”, subtract .338 for the diameter of the bore and I have 0.177” of meat.

Pretty sure that’s close to the minimum most recommend threading a brake on a magnum isn’t it, or am I pushing it?

It’s either make the barrel work with a brake or get a new barrel and brake. If I’m going to enjoy shooting it, I want a brake.


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[Bkottke35]

You can zoom in on the muzzle, mine is on a Tikka T3 338 win mag. Rich at High Tech Customs in Colorado Springs, CO did the work and made the break. I’m happy with the results

 

[Clarktar]

So for reference the end of my barrel is 0.515”, subtract .338 for the diameter of the bore and I have 0.177” of meat.

Pretty sure that’s close to the minimum most recommend threading a brake on a magnum isn’t it, or am I pushing it?

It’s either make the barrel work with a brake or get a new barrel and brake. If I’m going to enjoy shooting it, I want a brake.


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Just sell it and get yourself something you can handle. Maybe a .17hmr?

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[freediver111]

Just sell it and get yourself something you can handle. Maybe a .17hmr?

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I don’t know man, pretty sure those fancy .17’s buck like a Bronc for old guys like us.


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[Clarktar]

I don’t know man, pretty sure those fancy .17’s buck like a Bronc for old guys like us.


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Don't cast me in your lot. Forever Young out here sister (que Alphaville).

In all seriousness, it sounds thin to me. Some Smith's/machinists might turn you down. I bet your boy Toeanoue down the road will give it a go.

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[Tberg]

I shoot my 338wm quite a bit at the range. Mine is a model 70 classic stainless. 26" barrel. The muzzle is kinda thin so no brake. It can get brutal off the bench but really not bad in field shooting positions. If you want to get shooting; Limit time off the bench and you should be fine without a brake. I'll give you a path to speed up load development. Try some R26, worked good for me. 73.5gr was most accurate and consistent. Shot decent up to 75.5 but primers were getting flat. R23 is really good with 225gr accubonds.

 

[Wapiti1]

Thin barrels can have a brake installed without any issues.

Two methods. 1. You thread to the largest size possible and internally shoulder the brake. Meaning it seats on a flat machined at the muzzle crown rather than on a shoulder at the thread base. Pretty easy to do. Might have to cut custom threads in the brake to get to the perfect size. This method can also be modified and use a bushing on the barrel end to get up to standard size threads.

2. The other common method is a clamp on brake. The gunsmith turns the muzzle end parallel for about an inch so the clamp has a surface to mate to for alignment.

I prefer method 1. Clamp brakes tend to be on the large side adding a lot of weight to the end of a thin barrel.

Jeremy