Nock Right Hoyt?

[Tilzbow]

Okay here's something different.....

For two years I struggled with nock left (paper, bare shafts and broad heads). Within the past few weeks I've been working on form like never before (surprise release, relaxed bow hand, follow through, etc) by shooting blind bail and so on. Now the same 2012 right hand Carbon Matrix that required serious cam lean to correct nock left is shooting the same arrow consistently nock right with zero, yes zero lean (in fact it might be just a hair negative and yoke tuning doesn't seem to make much difference). Center shot is set at 3/4", top cam timed to hit just short of 1/8" before bottom, ATA and brace right on spec just as before. Only change I'm aware of is form and cam lean (I've adjusted timing as lean was adjusted).

For what it's worth I've got a 2014 Carbon Spyder 34 that's shooting perfect bare shafts at 20 yards with slight positive lean as expected. Shooting the same form with both bows. Yoke tuning the CS34 has the expected influence on flight but I'm not seeing it with the Matrix anymore. I'm not blaming the bow and it's likely form related but again the same form with the new bow yields perfect flight....

Any suggestions on what to try to correct the nock right? The left yoke currently has zero twists. In the past a twist on one side of the yoke and an untwist on the opposite side would change things but I'm not seeing much of a change right now. It's just weird....

 

[Evan Williams]

Take center shot to 7/8" that is more along the lines of where Hoyts like.

 

[Tilzbow]

Thanks, that's one thing I didn't try since it seems counterintuitive but I've learned that doesn't mean much....

I just adjusted it out a bit. I'd actually moved the rest inside of 3/4" thinking that might help but it didn't. I've moved it out to 13/16" and I'll shoot tomorrow and see the effect. If there's a change but not quite there I'll move out another 1/16".

 

[RosinBag]

The Hoyt techs seem to think that 13/16" is ideal center shot. Some say .800" of inch, but harder to measure that. I think you could go either way a 1/16' from 13/16" and get them to tune. I generally set mine up at 13/16", yoke tune and am fine.

 

[Tilzbow]

I set the CS34 at 13/16", timed it, set nock at 1/16" high and that was that with the new bow with the revised form. The Matrix been 2 years of headaches but again I'm sure it's me and not the bow. If I wasn't several beers into the night I'd shoot it right now after moving the rest out but that'll have to wait until tomorrow.

All that said why would moving the rest out correct nock right?

 

[RosinBag]

I think in combination with yoke tuning after moving rest. Much depends on how far you are from your paper also. It could be nock left immediately and coming back to right when it enters paper. Dynamic spine could affect that.

 

[mt100gr.]

While focusing on your form before and during the shot, also be conscious of immediately after the shot. I go through bouts with grabbing at the grip as the bow fires. This always results in right or left tears. Make sure you aren't subconsciously closing your bow hand as the release fires. I shoot a matrix g3 and a vector 35 and have never had an issue that setting to spec and yoke tuning can't fix. It's always me. Also double check your rest timing. If the down cable is pulling to hard against the rest cord it can hang things up too. Also, compare the grips of the bows...If there is any difference it can change the way your bow hand settles into them. I always pull the grip and shoot off the riser. The riser on my aluminum vector is a lot thinner then the riser on my matrix. I shoot the vector better. I am rambling now, keep narrowing it down but before you make many adjustments, exhaust all possible causes at each setting.

 

[c5mrr270]

Did you doudle check and see if you're getting any fletching contact? I only ask because you say yoke tuning isn't changing anything.

 

[Tilzbow]

Moving the rest out to 13/16" did the trick. From zero lean at brace I put a twist in the left yoke and took one out of the right and it's all good again.

With the poor form and grip the rest had to be inside of 3/4" and I had to put a ton of lean to get it tuned. With the new form, grip and surprise release the Martix is tuning just like it should as is the new CS34. Now I'm going to spend a month on the bail ingraining this new form into my subconscious before I shoot to hit anything. I've got 25 years in doing it wrong so patience is the key. If anyone wants to know how to do it wrong just let me know!

 

[doverpack12]

Have you tried lengthening your draw length slightly 1/4" - 1/8"? If your draw is a little short at full draw your right elbow will be pulling to the right causing the nock of the arrow to be released a little that way. If none of the above adjustments help give this a try. I struggled for two years with broadheads impacting right because my draw was about a half inch too long so no matter what combination of adjustments I made nothing could overcome this problem. Start with the easy ones listed above and if you decide to try the draw length then make the adjustment in your release so you don't loose the rest of your tune on the bow until you are sure this is the solution.

 

[dangerousD]

I'm following along and tuning my G3 Matrix also. I've played with it before with trying to bare shaft tune and could never get it dialed in, but I am learning. I'm at 13/16" center shot and adjusted the yoke and now have it shooting bullet holes at about 6-8' I would guess but 10 yards is still about a 2" nock left tear.

Questions:
1. How far back from the paper do you bare shaft tune before you call it good?

2. When talking cam lean, is it always referenced at full draw or when the bow is at rest. I haven't made a draw board so I have never checked cam lean at full draw.

3. I have a 29" DL with the #3 cams that call for 35.25" axle to axle. Mine is at 35.5. I've read that you shouldn't worry so much about setting A2A at spec as long as it shoots good. What is the consensus here?

Thanks!

 

[str_8tup]

Hey guys, I too was having issues with my 14' Faktor 34 but with tearing nock left. Have everything where i wanted it, fletched arrow tore about 2" left. So i started twisting the left yoke while maintaining timing. Guys at Hoyt said you can twist the left yoke 5-6 full turns which really jacks that cam leaning the top left hard at rest. At this point i still wasn't happy since my rest had to be inside of square. Well i started looking at spacers on the bottom cam and noticed that the two spacers are different sizes. From factory they had the large spacer on left and thin on right. To me that didn't make any sense, so I swapped them around, thick on right and thin on left, took 1.5 turns out of the left yoke, 1.5 turns back into the right yoke, moved center shot back to 3/4", timed and shot bare shaft at 6' and boom, perfect. I'm convinced with most of your issues this should surely take care of it! Let me know and best of luck!