Savage 16 Lightweight Hunter accuracy problems

[Titan_Bow]

Long time fan of Savages, have never had a problem with one not being an awesome shooter. I’ve picked up a lightweight hunter chamber in 6.5 Creedmor. For the life of me, I cannot get this rifle to shoot accurately. Initially, I could not get any better then 3 to 5 inch groups. I’m not reloading for it, just factory ammo at this point. I tried all the Hornady stuff, Nosler Trophy Grade, and Federal Fusion, but nothing seemed to help. I took the rifle apart, skim bedded the action in JB weld into the cheap plastic stock, as well as strengthening the forearm with in weld and carbon arrow shaft pieces. I got everything put back together today, and went out to the range. The gun is shooting markedly better, but still not very confidence inspiring LOL. It does seem way more consistent, and my groups were probably averaging 2 to 2.5 inches at 100 yards. I know it could be me, I’m not an Olympic target shooter or anything, but I’ve been shooting for years and was in the military had well. I picked up the AR I built for my son, chambered in 6.8 and easily put 5 rounds in a tighter group than this Savage. I then grabbed my Savage Model 16 in 270 WSM (which is also skim bedded in the factory stock). I shoot 3/4” inch clover leafs with it all day long at 100.
So, am I just stuck with a 2MOA rifle? Do others have similar experience? Is it just too thin a barrel and flimsy stock? Is there anything else I should try??


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[LASTINLINE]

maybe check base and rings. doubt it but maybe a suspect scope? any copper fouling issues. i had only one rifle in my days that gave me accuracy issues i had to use bore paste to smooth out the jagged rifling cuts. i replaced rings and mount also and got it shooting great. just some ideas anyway. maybe give Savage a shout.

 

[robtattoo]

I had the same problem with mine initially. I found that it takes a very specific grip to get it shooting we'll from a bench. Namely the bag as close to the action as possible, a death grip on the wrist, a very firm cheekweld & very little pressure applied to the forearm.
Field positions & offhand were no problem, but it really doesn't pertain to bench shooting. The best I've ever managed is 1¼", but I'm fine with that. It's a sub-400yd rifle for me. I always seem to hit what I'm aiming at, or close enough to kill it.

 

[JeffRaines]

I'd be willing to bet its a technique issue.

Go do a search for "how to shoot lightweight rifles", and then go give it another go.

 

[LazyV]

I'd be willing to bet its a technique issue.

Go do a search for "how to shoot lightweight rifles", and then go give it another go.

This was my first thought too. There is a good thread on 24HCF about that.

 

[Titan_Bow]

Thanks for all the feedback. I will definitely look into the technique aspect, not something I had ever thought about to be honest. I have shot everything from 6.5 pound M-4's up to Barret 50 cals and never put much thought into differing technique depending on the weight of the rifle. I will give it another go today with some updated technique.

 

[Wapiti1]

Usually you have to firmly hold the forearm on ultralight rifles. The recoil impulse moves the rifle sooner in a lightweight system and you have to do something to control it. Using your hand to weight the forearm typically does the trick.

Jeremy

 

[Formidilosus]

I had the same problem with mine initially. I found that it takes a very specific grip to get it shooting we'll from a bench. Namely the bag as close to the action as possible, a death grip on the wrist, a very firm cheekweld & very little pressure applied to the forearm.
Field positions & offhand were no problem, but it really doesn't pertain to bench shooting. The best I've ever managed is 1¼", but I'm fine with that. It's a sub-400yd rifle for me. I always seem to hit what I'm aiming at, or close enough to kill it.

I'd be willing to bet its a technique issue.

Go do a search for "how to shoot lightweight rifles", and then go give it another go.

Usually you have to firmly hold the forearm on ultralight rifles. The recoil impulse moves the rifle sooner in a lightweight system and you have to do something to control it. Using your hand to weight the forearm typically does the trick.

Jeremy

How do y’all preform the 37 trick moves in the field?






I shoot Barrett Fieldcrafts, NULA’s, custom 5lb rifles of many makes, etc. No trick moves needed. Straight and neutral behind the rifle, neutral grip, press the trigger straight to the rear, watch the bullet impact. That’s it.


Have had many Kimber Montana’s, Savage LWH, etc. that needed to be held a certain way to shoot, and every time there was something wrong with the rifle. In the Kimber cases it is a long list, in the Savage’s it usually involves the stock. It’s so flimsy that any torque on the forend is transferred to the action causing a POI shift. This is my problem with Savage LWH’s- everyone loves to talk about how theirs shoots.... “if I do my part”. Well what happens when you aren’t perfect? A rifle that is going to be used on game can not be that picky.


If your rifles requires some odd technique to shoot, something is wrong with it and it needs to be addressed or it will eventually bite you on an animal.

 

[Stickman]

I’m no expert with shooting lightweight rifles, but my Tikka Superlight shoots 3-4 shot one hole groups on demand. I’m not doing anything special when shooting it either. Maybe there is something going on with that rifle is all I’m saying. Good luck getting her sorted out.

 

[Jkling12]

The stock on the savage is so flimsy through the forearm that it's torquing the action like said above. The tikka and Barrett have better stocks which helps the problem of torquing on the unltralight rifles.

 

[Titan_Bow]

The stock on the savage is so flimsy through the forearm that it's torquing the action like said above. The tikka and Barrett have better stocks which helps the problem of torquing on the ultralight rifles.

I really do hate the synthetic stock on these rifles. I see Boyds is selling a stock for the 16 LWH now, does anyone know how much weight this would add? I would rather have a 7 lbs rifle that shoots well, than a 6 lbs rifle that I am not confident in. Just looking at how much extra weight the Boyds would add?

 

[fishslap]

I really do hate the synthetic stock on these rifles. I see Boyds is selling a stock for the 16 LWH now, does anyone know how much weight this would add? I would rather have a 7 lbs rifle that shoots well, than a 6 lbs rifle that I am not confident in. Just looking at how much extra weight the Boyds would add?

I can’t tell you how much they weigh but I have one on my x bolt 270 wsm and one on my savage 6.5-284 if you want to handle them to see how they feel. Shaun

 

[Wapiti1]

Their classic weighs about 2.5lbs in walnut and close to 3lbs in laminate. Not sure what the OEM Savage stock weighs.

Put pillars in and bed the recoil lug at a minimum. Don't torque the back action screw down too much. That area is only 1/2 supported by the stock/pillar and it will warp the action if you crank the back screw down too much. 30-35 inch pounds is sufficient on that screw. 65 inch pounds on the front screw with a pillar. 50 inch pounds if you don't have a pillar. If the stock is correct, you should be able to slip paper under the back action tang after everything is torqued down. It should not be contacting the stock.

Jeremy

 

[neverquit]

Their classic weighs about 2.5lbs in walnut and close to 3lbs in laminate. Not sure what the OEM Savage stock weighs.

Put pillars in and bed the recoil lug at a minimum. Don't torque the back action screw down too much. That area is only 1/2 supported by the stock/pillar and it will warp the action if you crank the back screw down too much. 30-35 inch pounds is sufficient on that screw. 65 inch pounds on the front screw with a pillar. 50 inch pounds if you don't have a pillar. If the stock is correct, you should be able to slip paper under the back action tang after everything is torqued down. It should not be contacting the stock.

Jeremy

And remove the rings and bases and re torque with a torque wrench. Bwteeen these two steps I’ve fixed every 4in group Rifle to a 1-1.5inch group factory ammo rifle .

 

[Fartrell Cluggins]

I have two of these rifles that are easy sub MOA 3 shot groupers with no "special technique" needed. I think they are somewhat crude, and yes the stock is willowy, but functionally, they get the job done. You'd hope for an extra grand or more money that a Fieldcraft would offers some advantage.

I am interested in seeing if the new LW Storms are any improvement.

 

[roosiebull]

I have two of these rifles that are easy sub MOA 3 shot groupers with no "special technique" needed. I think they are somewhat crude, and yes the stock is willowy, but functionally, they get the job done. You'd hope for an extra grand or more money that a Fieldcraft would offers some advantage.

I am interested in seeing if the new LW Storms are any improvement.

i think the storms are very similar... flimsy stock, but shoots really, really well. my 110 ultralite has a flimsy stock too, and i'm thinking about putting a chassis on it.... not because it doesn't shoot well as is though, it does, but i think a XLR chassis will be more forgiving.... or i may just leave it as is because it fits the niche it's for.

a friend has 2 LW hunters, and they both shoot better than i am capable of. one is a braked 243, which may help, i don't know.