I think a lot of manufactures are off with their specs. My PSE wasn’t close and the weight was under when everything else was close. With the timing marks lined up ATA and BH were both over and it was 68lbs.
When I put custom cams and limbs on it I had to build custom string lengths. I ended up just making my timing marks on the cams line up and everything else I didn’t really pay attention to. My weight came in at almost 74lbs which I like with that timing marks perfect.
My rest was also hitting the riser and I talked to John (Breathn), I ended up raising the loop and then the rest above the Berger hole. No more hitting the riser. As far as the center shot goes do you have any cam lean? You may have a stiff or weak limb that needs swapped around. I had to swap my limbs around from top to bottom because of a low tear that wouldn’t go away and it changed my center shot alot. I had a thick shim on one side and a thin on the other and had to swap them after moving limbs.
I was able to get bullet holes in paper with my center shot allowing the arrow to come straight out of the bow. I can’t stand looking down the arrow and it kicking to one side or the other to get a tune. After the initial setup I don’t measure center shot again as long as the arrow is straight.
Talking to John, he fells all that matters is how the arrow is coming from the bow and if you’re happy with the weight. I was also talking with him about a custom bow that has never been built so it’s somewhat different. The reason for the call was because I was getting too hung up on specs.
I know looking through the tune charts PSE shows 34” ATA with each cam they offer on the Mach 34 which seems impossible and from what I’ve seen none were actually 34” exactly.
What was your goal with getting shorter cables? I would assume BT would have sent it through QC before sending it out. It might be common for the ATA to run long on their bows.
If I were in your shoes I would get the weight where you want it, the draw length where you want it, get it timed and tune for flight from there. You should also be twisting and untwisting the string as well as the cables. If you shortened the cables and not the string your draw length and holding weight will be off, you should be able to move your timing back in between the marks by shortening or lengthening the string depending on which way it needs to go. Your timing marks are balanced between the cables and string. If you untwisted the cables a bunch to get the ATA correct but now your timing is off. Untwist the string to bring the marks back in line.
Allen, AKA (Nuts and Bolts) has a great article that talks about all of this. I think you can Google it still and find it.
