T3x Lite vs Roughtech

[Zackw]

I’ve started putting money away (i.e. hiding it from the wife) for a Tikka in .300 wsm. I’m trying to decide if I should just get the lite model and then get the barrel threaded and a brake added, or just save a bit more and get the roughtech. I’m not sure how well the tikka brake works when in comparison to an aftermarket brake. Anyone have any experience with these? Thanks

 

[Desk Jockey]

Very happy owner of a couple of tikkas. No direct experience with the magnums but I have been looking at them. just based on price the lights go for $750-800 And The roughteck lists for $1000 (europtic) but it seems like they are scarce unless you want to pay $1200.

$400 difference would be enough to cover the threading and brake but not $200. There are also some other upgrades on the newer versions that interest me.

I am curious what kind of finish the new guns have. It says they are blued so I am assuming carbon steel barrels and actions. Maybe someone can confirm. I sure would prefer stainless with the new upgrades But I am not sure that is an option yet.

 

[Zackw]

I’ve got a newer 6.5 lite and it shoots fantastically. Smoothest action, right out of the box. I can pick up another lite (just the blued version) in 300wsm for around $650, which is why I was leaning towards that option. That way I can get one while I still can, do the muzzle brake whenever, and then cerakote it sometime down the road.

 

[Rexman]

I was just debating the exact same thing and just bought a Roughtech yesterday. My reasoning was the Roughtech comes with the D18 contour which allows for 5/8x24 threads....plus it is already threaded and includes both a cap and break. I don’t think this is the same with the Lite version and a gunsmith can only do 9/16x24 or 1/2x28 from what I have read from others. The Roughtech also has a fluted bolt but I think this is more cosmetic and doesn’t do much for performance. For me it was worth the extra cost but I don’t think you can go wrong either way.

 

[davsco]

i'd go for the threaded version if you intend on a can or brake. just less hassle. as a lefty that option isn't available to me at least yet.

 

[Breckenridge]

I have a Tikka lite in 7mm RM and a $40 limbsaver pad was all it needed to tame the recoil. I have tried brakes in the past but the increase in noise was not worth the decrease in kick IMHO.

 

[Rocket99]

I bought a Roughtech in .308 due to the heavier contoured, fluted and threaded barrel. The factory brake is worthless in my opinion, but I am happy as heck with the gun otherwise


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[deerslayer9000]

I recently purchase a Veil Wideland instead of the Roughtech due to it being cerokoted. Decided I was tired of dealing with blued rifles. Very happy with the rifle, stock and coating. In my mind the decision was between a regular T3x Lite in SS or the Veil. I didn't see the value of the Roughtech as it was a middle ground between the above choices and close enough to the Veil pricing. I'd either buy the Veil (which I did) or the SS and do everything else (threaded, cerakote) myself/later.

Edit: figured I'd add mine is 7mm RM. Don't think it is too loud with the brake (wearing muffs) and it shoots nice and smooth.

 

[Zackw]

Well, I went ahead and ordered the .300 lite. I’ll try the recoil pad and hopefully that will be enough. I’ve shot my dad’s 300wsm Winchester plenty of times and it’s not too awful. I don’t plan on shooting it a ton, that’s what the 6.5 is for. Just enough to get a good load worked up for elk and then every now and then to keep the cobwebs off.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I’d personally never buy those newer models, I do t like ceracoat, breaks or stocks with strange paint jobs. I’d just buy a lite ot superlite and save the $$$ for Ammo.

 

[Highvoltage1]

If your worried about the recoil shoot either the 150 or 165 Barnes ttsx. I’ve killed elk with both of those bullets and if your a hand loader you can load that 150 up to 3300 or load it down like a 3006. Best wishes to you.

 

[Zackw]

I was planning on loading up some 175 lrx’s for hunting. I was considering the 165 or 168 ttsx’s but the lrx’s have a lower minimum expansion velocity. I guess since I’m not planning on shooting anything other than targets past 400-500 yards, I’d have enough velocity for the ttsx’s.

 

[Bubblehide]

In a hunting rifle. I would not buy anything that is not stainless steel.

 

[Superdoo]

In a hunting rifle. I would not buy anything that is not stainless steel.

Ohh come on!!! You gotta tell us why!!!

 

[Bubblehide]

Ohh come on!!! You gotta tell us why!!!

Blued rifles rust, easily, Steel springs rust, easily. And having a state record blacktail in your sights and not fire due to a rusted spring not allowing the firing pin to do its job. Besides, I hunt in all kinds of weather, and beat the crap out of my primary rifle (it literally looks beat to death, but damn it still shoots). Stainless just holds up to the weather. Almost every blued rifle I own has some degree of rust. I swore decades ago, to never by a blued/-steel gun again.

 

[meta_gabbro]

I was planning on loading up some 175 lrx’s for hunting. I was considering the 165 or 168 ttsx’s but the lrx’s have a lower minimum expansion velocity. I guess since I’m not planning on shooting anything other than targets past 400-500 yards, I’d have enough velocity for the ttsx’s.

I'm using the 168's in my 300WSM this year. According to another post somewhere on the forums from a while back the 168's open at the same minimum impact velocity as the 175gr LRX while the 165's require higher speeds, for whatever reason. I've got mine at just a hair over 3100fps right now, so they should still be around 2k by 500yds which is plenty oomph to open.

 

[wildwilderness]

I'm using the 168's in my 300WSM this year. According to another post somewhere on the forums from a while back the 168's open at the same minimum impact velocity as the 175gr LRX while the 165's require higher speeds, for whatever reason. I've got mine at just a hair over 3100fps right now, so they should still be around 2k by 500yds which is plenty oomph to open.

I spoke to Barnes about it a while ago- the 165 TTSX was originally designed for the 300 win mag class cartridges so is a tougher bullet. They made the 168 TTSX for the 308 win non-magnum cartridges so it’s softer for slower velocities. (And long range before they came out with the LRX line)

don’t for get to look at Hammer Bullets, very accurate and fast!

 

[FCCDerek]

Hate to revive an old thread, but is the Roughtech stainless steel under the black finish?

 

[NWBLKTAIL]

No they are not to my knowledge, I have one and just checked tikkas webpage for the various models to verify.

 

[Elkfitness]

Based on my past research, the roughtech was not stainless steel, but the veil model was stainless steel.


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