Tikka CTR Rail removal

[RussDXT]

So I ordered a CTR 6.5 creed. It’s mainly going to be used for tree stand hunting whitetail.

Would you recommend pulling the rail off and running UM rings?

That’s my inclination but if it’s on there pretty tight I’m half tempted to throw some Hawkins rings on it and hunt like that for the season.

Also, can I use a factory t3 x tikka stock on the rifle to loose some weight. I know I’ll have to use a different mag, and am ok with that.

Thanks!

 

[BRTreedogs]

I wouldn't bother removing it unless your are really worried about a few onces

 

[Marbles]

Heat gun works good for removing bedded rails.

If you already have pic rings on hand, the simple thing is to use the pic rail.

 

[RussDXT]

The weight of it does not really bother me. If it’s on there pretty secure I may just let it ride.

 

[Sandstrom]

Mine came off pretty easy, I gave it a few solid taps with a rawhide mallet and it came loose. It is held in place by two pins and glue.

 

[RussDXT]

That’s kinda my worry that it comes loose during the season.

 

[Marbles]

That’s kinda my worry that it comes loose during the season.

Unlikely to happen. Glue combined with the clamping force of screws is pretty strong.

 

[Sandstrom]

Unlikely to happen. Glue combined with the clamping force of screws is pretty strong.

Agreed!!! Don’t forget the pins that also hold it in place.

 

[Macintosh]

Heck, I put a steel ctr rail on my t3x lite. If you pull it I might want to buy it. Personally I would not pull it. Same comment on a stock. The stock is essentially the same with a bigger cutout for the magwell and a cheek riser. The cheek riser only weighs an ounce or two.
I have to ask, if you’re worried about saving an ounce or two here and there, why did you buy a CTR and not a lite? Answering that question might help prioritize where to save some weight, because I was going to suggest if you want to save weight the place to start is the barrel.

 

[PlumberED]

I just purchased a CTR to use for WT stand hunting in Maryland. Could not really see a benefit of removing the pic railI, (even though I have a set of SM TO84 rings on the shelf) so, I used low Seekins rings to mount the NXS scope. Had a little trouble with the magazine feeding properly so I bent the mag spring a bit to get the nose of the cartridge up a bit, now it feeds flawlessly. Over all the the rifle is great.

 

[MTMeatHunter]

I’ll go against the grain a bit here and say, if you can remove a point of failure from the rifle, why wouldn’t you? I bought a CTR and took the rail off immediately and run the Sportsmatch rings that clamp directly to the receiver. And yeah, the epoxy that held the rail on probably wasn’t going to come loose, but now that the rail is sitting in my safe I know it ain’t going anywhere.

 

[PlumberED]

I’ll go against the grain a bit here and say, if you can remove a point of failure from the rifle, why wouldn’t you? I bought a CTR and took the rail off immediately and run the Sportsmatch rings that clamp directly to the receiver. And yeah, the epoxy that held the rail on probably wasn’t going to come loose, but now that the rail is sitting in my safe I know it ain’t going anywhere.

You do bring a valid point. My thinking was since the rail is epoxied it not going anywhere.

 

[ktm450]

I removed the rail on mine. Heat gun + rubber mallet. I wanted to mount my scope as low as possible works great.

 

[MTMeatHunter]

You do bring a valid point. My thinking was since the rail is epoxied it not going anywhere.

I think you’re most likely right. Personally I just prefer the peace of mind of being able to check all my screws, and it drives me nuts that you can’t check a rail screw for tightness without removing your scope.

 

[RussDXT]

Heck, I put a steel ctr rail on my t3x lite. If you pull it I might want to buy it. Personally I would not pull it. Same comment on a stock. The stock is essentially the same with a bigger cutout for the magwell and a cheek riser. The cheek riser only weighs an ounce or two.
I have to ask, if you’re worried about saving an ounce or two here and there, why did you buy a CTR and not a lite? Answering that question might help prioritize where to save some weight, because I was going to suggest if you want to save weight the place to start is the barrel.

Not overly concerned with weight, as long as it’s not excessive. To put it in perspective my rifle I hunted with in Colorado weighed 11 lbs last year and was not a problem.

The reason I went with a ctr is due to the barrel length and it being threaded. I only want to hunt suppressed.

I’m also thinking the weight may be a plus when my boys who are young e ready to shoot a rifle bigger than a .223 and 300 blk.

 

[wind gypsy]

I understand that rails come loose sometimes but I'd have zero concern with one that's epoxied in and uses recoil pins unless you wanted to reduce weight.

 

[PlumberED]

I think you’re most likely right. Personally I just prefer the peace of mind of being able to check all my screws, and it drives me nuts that you can’t check a rail screw for tightness without removing your scope.

I can understand that

 

[MTMeatHunter]

Here’s the weight for ya

 

[sdupontjr]

I bought a ctr 308 20" because I wanted the extra weight for a smaller kid to shoot. That was my initial thought, get it braked with limbsaver, would be a kitten to shoot. Well after recieving it, the gun went a different direction. Will eventually be suppressed. Changed the stock to a standard tikka stock with a t3x bottom metal and mags.

I did a weight comparison post no long ago on the weight difference of my 20" ctr to my T3 lite 308. Numbers were actually pretty close. So I decided to pull my rail. When I pulled the screws out, they were covered in an epoxy of some sort, possibly loctite. Once all the screws were out, the very front of the rail has a threaded hole that goes to nothing.

Take a runber hammer or in my case, a 2x4 and hit the rail. And I mean hit it. That will help loosen the epoxy if you dont have a heat gun. Now, Clean off the loctite of the screws, insert one screw into that hole. You will basically be using that screw as a jack bolt. No it will not scar the receiver, but it will help separate the rail. Tighten the screw and you'll hear a snap. It's the epoxy breaking. I used a butter knife and carefully placed it under the rail and action. As I screwed it in some more, the gap got slightly larger. I then worked the butter knife all the way around. It has to lift straight up because there is 2 pins installed that prevent it from just sliding or rolling off. I cleaned the epoxy residue off my action with acetone and lot of elbow grease. So now it basically like my T3 lite with a 20" threaded barrel for suppressor.

 

[sdupontjr]

View attachment 616129
Here’s the weight for ya

Yep, took the advise from this guy. Works like a champ with no issues.