Any knife guys out there?

[cmeier117]

I am in the market for a medium to large survival knife, fixed blade 6-8 inches. I have an ESEE 4 which I love but for batoning logs and making firewood it is a little small. This is not for hunting but for summer and winter trips where I need to get firewood, make shelter etc... I am looking at a DPMX Heft 6 assault and maybe an ESEE 6 of ESEE Junglas. Anyone have any recommendations? Again this is not for me to take hunting, this is for winter snow shoe trips, so I can make a lean to and get to center of logs where it is dry, and for summer trips with friend and family.

 

[lostbackpacker]

might not be the best choice. but I used my USMC Ka-Bar when I was in Search and rescue. It performed just fine. i.e. making shelters, medium sized branches

 

[Rick Leathley]

Depends on how much you want to spend. For the money the ESEE 6 is a good knife. I have a custom made by Ray Laconico that I consider the perfect outdoor knife.

 

[cmeier117]

Rick,

What length is the Ray Laconico knife? What Steel? Is it a full flat grind? Handle material etc...

 

[Rick Leathley]

Its a 4.25", flat ground, Canvas Micarta. heat treated 1095 steel. I pair it with a Silky hand saw and don't feel the need for a bigger knife.

 

[ScottP]

Some that come to mind to do what you describe are listed below. If you find the ESEE4 too small, maybe the BK-2 will fit. It weighs 1lb, is cheap, and I like the 1095 cro-van. I have it in a BK-16 (which is sized like ESEE4).

Becker BK2: http://www.kabar.com/knives/detail/1

More spendy, but great knives:
Bark River Bravo 1, 1.5, 2 http://www.barkriverknifetool.com/Search&Rescue.htm

A small hatchet? I have 2 gerbers and a gransfors.

If I'm car camping I still like a hatchet to split rounds cut with a hand saw. not sure how far you have to carry gear.

 

[Rick Leathley]

If I was looking for a new fixed blade I would look here: http://shop.gossmanknives.com/ and: http://bantangknives.com/wordpress/. The BK2 is a really stout knife to thick for my taste.

There is really nothing wrong with the ESEE 4/6.

 

[Ozz08]

For the size of knife you are looking for check out the "magnum fox river" from bark river knife and tool as well as their "bravo" line of knives. But check them out here

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/ (much better than the bark river website)

And as was said earlier there isn't anything wrong with an ESEE.

 

[cmeier117]

I will team the knife up with a sawvivor folding saw. I live in Oregon so sometimes in the winter I have had issues starting a fire and having a longer blade allows be to split/baton larger logs to get to dry wood. That is why I am looking for a 6+ inch knife. I really like the ESEE knives but I would like a blade steel I don't have to watch for rust as much as I do with the ESEE knives, since they use a high carbon 1095 steel.

The reason I steer clear of a hatchet is weight, and I don't know if you have tried using one on 6+ feet of snow, but the logs tend to sink in too badly and I hate making a base and burning all those calories.

 

[cmeier117]

I really like the looks of the bark rivers st8. I like 154cm, but have had issues with chipping with my benchmade.

 

[Rick Leathley]

Thats why I like 1095 in a heavy use knife. All my pocket knives are S30v but it does not hold up to the beating 1095 does.

You could always strip the ESEE coating and force a patina to help with rust.

 

[cmeier117]

Can you educate me on what "force a patina" is?

 

[Rick Leathley]

Think of tarnished silver. You put a thin layer of corrosion onto the blade to protect it from rust. Anything acidic works vinegar fruit, potato, even cutting meat causes patina. It wont protect it 100% but it should help you.
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/ksfinfo/Newsletter/patina.html

 

[Shrek]

Ospho works great too. If you know a welder he can probably hook you up. Turns the metal black but it doesn't rust as easy.

 

[fillthefreezer]

Ospho works great too. If you know a welder he can probably hook you up. Turns the metal black but it doesn't rust as easy.

yep, we use this S on boat trailers

 

[hammer0419]

There are so many good choices out there. A handmade would be my first choice. Bark River, Blind Horse, Becker, are some other excellent choices

 

[ScottP]

If you are worried about the 1095 corrosion, try finding something in CPM3V. Its not a stainless, but very corrosion resistant. Bark River offers several models in it, as do other makers. Some youtube searching will likely yield some durability tests. I have a small fixed blade in 3V steel, and have only batoned with it once, no problems. It might be more picky with edge geometry though, compared to high carbon stuff - but is tough when you find the right angle.

2000-grit paper and some flitz polish usually will clean up a knife left wet or bloody in the sheath for a few days. Personally, I like working with the edges of the softer steels. Sure they dull faster, but they also are easier to restore.

 

[unm1136]

Nothing wrong with 1095. Heck, if I recall correctly Cold Steel's vaunted Carbon V was simply well marketed 1095. My favorite sheath knife, a 1995 CS Bush Ranger, is Carbon V... That said, I am a bit of a steel snob. My favorite using knives are VG10 and D2. If I could afford a vintage Chris Reeve, I would love to try A2, and while I would not turn up my nose at an older Mad Dog in O1, I can'bring myself to pay for one, even on the used market. If I were looking for a big knife I would be looking at the Busse Battle Mistress or Steel Heart II, or their equivelent models from Swamp Rat Knives.

pat

 

[hammer0419]

I use a ton on 1084 and 1095 in my knifemaking and it is outstanding steel!! Wipe it off when done. Don't leave in. A wet sheath and it will last forever!

 

[ScottP]

A2 IMO is a nice compromise. Tough, but restores easily. I broke down an entire elk with an A2 knife (including all 4 leg joints), and it was just starting to lose the scary sharp at the end. You can work out minor edge rolls with a compound loaded strop. But they will tarnish some... so good care or patina will avoid that.

When I really work my 3V knife, it takes very tiny tiny chips. So usually, a very fine grit paper is needed for restoration. I've fattened up the edge angle a bit this spring to try and reduce this.

I don't have anything in D2, but have heard its a pretty hard steel. My hunting blades are A2 and 3V. Survival blade 1095 cro-van.

Hopefully some of this rambling will help you in your decision.