Any Watch Nerds to point me?

Joined
Feb 3, 2014
Location
Boundary Co. Idaho
I'm 50. Don't have a watch. Guess I do...Wife gifted me her Garmin Fenix something when she upgraded. But I'd like a real watch. For sure have a budget. Probably top top is $700. $500 more realistic.

I am a knife nerd. It would take me YEARS to dive into watches. More nerdy than Nife Nerds. I like custom scales. And am OCD about my shit matching. Yes...embarassing. But that's where I am finding myself at retirement age.

I want a heavy, robust watch that looks decent but can take every day wear and tear. In a short invesigation I've already learned it's not a watch band, it's a "bracelet". And I am floored there is so much nomenclature around a F'ing watch. Lugs, Bracelets, geeeesh. I'd love a bronze watch with bronze bracelet. But a subdued stainless, Ti or whatever...who knows. Bigger is better. XL hands and large wrist. Seeing that maybe 42mm is where I would end up? Not looking for LumberSexual, Metro svelt watch

Where it's made is a huge deal. Anti China. Anyone but China.

Since I have a budget, where do I even begin?
 
Marathon would be a good place to start for a robust watch. I think you can find one used in that range. Seiko 007xx diver would be decent but may need to upgrade bracelet.


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Do you want a watch that needs batteries, or one that is powered by your movement or solar energy?

Quartz movements can be very accurate, but most need a battery changed every year or 2.

Automatic (self-winding) movements can be almost as accurate, but need cleaning and lubrication more often. Also, they will run down if not worn or wound for a day or more.
 
Hello soon to be fellow watch nerd.

I’d look to Seiko and Citizen
First two on left are Seiko (made in Japan) mechanical automatic. One is a dive watch commonly known as the “Samurai”, the one with a leather band 😬 is the SPB121J1 commonly known as the Alpinist.
The 3rd is Citizen solar powered that gets signal from the atomic clock daily (stupid accurate timekeeping). Also made in Japan.
The Alpinist is 100% made in Japan and not super easy to find in the US. The other Seiko and the Citizen have Japanese movements but I can’t verify that there is no Chinese labor or components.
I’m with you on China. I try very hard to not support that regime or companies that don’t provide a living wage.
 

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This is about what I am looking for. Ref from above. Head still spinning with "mods". Know nothing of the reliability, function, or location of production of the above. Difficult even finding a Seiko site. Where would one source matching bracelets.
 
If you get a mechanical watch there is a free app called Hairspring. It measures your accuracy + or - to help set time for fewest adjustments needed.
 
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This is about what I am looking for. Ref from above. Head still spinning with "mods". Know nothing of the reliability, function, or location of production of the above. Difficult even finding a Seiko site. Where would one source matching bracelets.
The strap on your picture in from Erika’s Originals. She makes great nato straps. You can also check out Hodinkee for straps, although they will be pricey
 
My every day watch is a Rolex Explorer II on a canvas NATO strap (original bracelet is in the safe). I wear it hunting, swimming, fishing, hiking, etc, only take it off when I sleep.

With that said, if I had to buy a watch at a lower price point, I like Hook & Gaff. The company is based in SC.
 
Steinhart Ocean One GMT 42mm with a jubilee bracelet. I have the “coke” bezel. I swap to a nato or Zulu strap when hunting or traveling. The GMT is nice for tracking multiple time zones.
 
Christopher Ward is a British underdog in the Swiss movement realm, but moving up! The Seiko recommendation is always solid and there are many custom builds that can get you something unique if you don't go for the Rolex-look-custom-Seikos. Steinhart and Sinn are good too! Hamilton is another good one. Chrono24 is my favorite site to buy and sell used watches if you want to get lost in deep world of wrist collectibles.

If you're looking for something with substance that can play in a tuxedo or camo, the dive watch is the way to go. A chronograph may look sharp, but it is more fragile.

When I was 19, I bought myself an Omega Seamaster to commemorate my first big paycheck (selling cars). It was my daily driver for twenty years. I have since had children and have been collecting other nice dive watches to leave them one day. My father and grandfathers all died within the last 6 years. There is nothing of greater sentimental value to leave behind than something your son/grandson will want to wear on his wrist every day.

The other thing I have thoroughly enjoyed being reminded of one of my grandfathers is his old Montblanc pen. When it comes time to sign a contract or just write a note, I get to think of him.
 
Missed your part about bronze watches. There are a few excellent options:

The Bronze King is the Tudor Black Bay Bronze (I have this watch and LOVE it)... it is a big watch at 43mm. https://www.chrono24.com/tudor/blac...e&query=Tudor+Black+Bay+Bronze&goal_suggest=1

The Bronze Prince is Glycine: https://www.chrono24.com/glycine/bronze--cm18.htm

And Christopher Ward just released some new Bronze options: https://www.christopherward.com/int/new-watches?prefn1=WCaseMaterial&prefv1=Bronze&start=0&sz=12 <---the trident second hand is very cool
 
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I really like my Luminox atacama 1925. I know it isn't exactly what you're looking for but it is large (45 mm) and very easy to read in the dark because of the tritium tubes on the hours and hands. I replaced the leather strap with a black silicone strap to make it my "beater" outdoor watch. I got it for $500 on line from a watch store in NY in 2020.
.Luminox Atacama 1925.png
 
This thread is somewhat fascinating to me. I’m not into watches, certainly respect those that are, and definitely not trying to dig on anyone. I used a timex Ironman for about 25 years or so, someone recently bought me a Fitbit charge, and that’s about it. A girlfriend in college once bought me a citizen watch that I still have somewhere around the house but the battery died a number of years ago. I find this topic interesting!
 
If spending more then $200, mechanical is the only way to go (as wrist computers like the Fenix are specifically not what you are looking for). A mechanical watch is an heirloom item, a quartz watch (even if you spend 5K on it) will be unrepairable in 20 years.
 
Staying in that price point buy a Seiko SKX007 for a mechanical or a Seiko SNE573 solar. The bronze Seiko pic you posted looks similar to each of these models. Send it out for coating or buy a bunch of different color nato straps for cheaper than modding.
Some great suggestions in watch brands but Sinn, Omega, Marathon and Tudor are getting way above that $500 price point.
I geeked out on watches for quite awhile and the used watch market is a great place to see what is out there. I love tool watches, in the pilot or diver variety. Several Sinn, Damasko, Stowa, Seiko, Citizen have been on my watch winder. Typically a citizen eco solar is on my wrist because of its light weight and set and forget like an analog watch.
The WatchRecon app is a good place to find the style you want. Be careful though. You’ll turn into a watch geek in no time…
 
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