Best Bush Knife?

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So I am in the market for a new bush knife. Wanted to get some opinions on practical and actual uses. I will list some thoughts and go ahead and tell me if I am on the right track or in left field. This knife will be used on a drop solo survival trip where min gear is taken, it will be the only carry knife along with an ax/hatchet so little baton will be done with it. Currently I am using the benchmade saddle mountain, which is a fine knife just not as heavy duty as most bush knives. (I am partial to benchmade but open to any knives)

  1. Planning to go with stainless Steel
  2. 4.5-5.5 inch blade
  3. Leather sheath
  4. Using as a solo knife for “survival” purposes would need to be used for all tasks including breaking down game and fish
  5. Will be used with a ferro rod - (planning on using SS and understand carbon is better suited, is it worth the maintenance of carbon?)
  6. Will not have a knife sharpener - in this case would carbon trump SS?

Now I have looked into a few. I can get a good deal on the benchmade 162 bushcrafter which has good reviews but only in small circles. open to others if you have proven them in the field.

Let me know what you have used, likes dislikes and opinions. Figure price isn’t an issue, I want a knife of high quality as I will be relying heavily on its performance.
 

Lawnboi

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So many options.....

My 2 cents. Id go with a carbon steel, maybe something with some corrosion resistance like 3v. Something tough, that you can actually sharpen. I’d get a small stone and a small strop and learn to use it.

kydex. Leather holds moisture, grit, etc. kydex if at all possible.

My knife I supplement with a axe is a lt Wright jessmuk companion. Iv got bigger knives but find they are not needed as much when I have a axe to do the heavy work.

What’s your plan for the knife? Mainly fire making?

Id look into LT Wright knives. They make many models that would fit your bill. Im not much of a benchmade fan, imo overpriced for what you get.
 
OP
Jagger0502
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Thanks for the info. Kydex is a great point over leather. I will cross leather off the list and stick with kydex if I can. I only have the benchmade listed because I can get good deals on them so the price isn’t an issue.

I am adding Wright knives to the list. I like the looks of those and seem to be what I am looking for.
 

blackdog of vt

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My favorite two that would fit are the Bradford Guardians and the White river firecrafts. Both come in great steel and a lot of quality for the price, My favorite guardian in m390 in just a all around superb knife.
 
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Price range?
I’d check out the Bark River Bravo 1 (I’d recommend the 1.25). Check out DLT Trading. I also LOVE my Wilderness Explorer but they don’t have them currently.

What are you looking for exactly?
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Mosby

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I have an older Blind Horse Knife(BHK) in carbon steel that is my base camp knife. I use it for cooking, breaking down small wood for fire starting etc. I like its profile and works great with a ferro. I prefer carbon steel.

Falkniven makes real survival knives that have a great reputation for what they are. They don't look like a rambo knife but they are carried by military pilots.
 

Lawnboi

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Thanks for the info. Kydex is a great point over leather. I will cross leather off the list and stick with kydex if I can. I only have the benchmade listed because I can get good deals on them so the price isn’t an issue.

I am adding Wright knives to the list. I like the looks of those and seem to be what I am looking for.

LT makes a great user knife. I reach for them over many different brands even customs 90% of the time. They put many of the other semi custom makers to shame imo

You can order any of them from a dealer and send them in for kydex. They do a few different sheath options, last one I did had a taco style sheath made and it ran me 35 bucks.
 

CNW

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I'd check out Winkler Knives. They're a little pricier but certainly worth the money in my experience. Most of their knives are now 80crv2, which is a very versatile carbon steel and it holds an edge great. They've got a decently sized catalog but it seems like their Belt Knife, Field Knife or Blue Ridge Hunter would fit your needs pretty well. They come with a lined kydex sheath (I definitely second the kydex) and the black-oxide finish (caswell I think) is pretty tough stuff and should help with the carbon steel upkeep. Just my two cents, hope it helps!
 

sndmn11

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Whatever blade you take, I would surely consider this steel to cover some bases.



or if you must have stainless

 
OP
Jagger0502
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Those winkler knives look great. Very pricy but they look good. Do you have one and how do they hold up to the abuse?
 
OP
Jagger0502
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Dozier Pro Guide bar none

Do you like the D2 steel better than others? I have looked at the D2 for ease of sharpening in the field but haven’t ever owned one. How well do they hold an edge? And how rust resistant are they compared to the other carbon steel most others use?
 

CNW

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I've owned the Belt Knife and Operator, and have been able to play with a few of their axes that buddies of mine have owned. They hold up incredibly well! With exception of needing the occasional sharpening the only signs of wear had been the finish, which in my experience will be the case with almost all knives that are used regularly (still one of my preferred finishes though). Just as a side note... they offer a recycled rubber handle material on many of their knives. Not the most aesthetically pleasing material (at least to me) but it does remain incredibly grippy when wet. I know that might seem like a small detail but it makes for much safer use in the field. Food for thought!
 

Trial153

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Dan Makes some great blades especially for bush craft, I dont like them for any kind of serious meat work however as the 3/16 stock i had was overly heavy and unwelding. That said i see he is now making some with 5/32 stock...i might pick one up.
My combat axe with a hammer pole is hell of tool though. I like it as much as my RMJ Shrike.
 

Trial153

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Do you like the D2 steel better than others? I have looked at the D2 for ease of sharpening in the field but haven’t ever owned one. How well do they hold an edge? And how rust resistant are they compared to the other carbon steel most others use?
Doizers D2 is class of its own, he has his heat treatment down to the T. Youd be hard pressed to find a better combination of ease of sharping to rentention. It has fairly high carbon content so no its not stanless that said its also not as a prone to rust as say 1095. It will take on a pantina, not an A2 pantina but a pantina none the less. I have never done more then wipe it dry and forget it.
 

CNW

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Dan Makes some great blades especially for bush craft, I dont like them for any kind of serious meat work however as the 3/16 stock i had was overly heavy and unwelding. That said i see he is now making some with 5/32 stock...i might pick one up.
My combat axe with a hammer pole is hell of tool though. I like it as much as my RMJ Shrike.

I entirely agree. That was my exact thoughts before purchasing the Operator which is the thinner 5/32 stock. I found it much more manageable, but I find myself gravitating towards smaller blades in general these days. I owned an RMJ Eagle Talon years ago but much preferred my buddies Shrike. Boy are they both rugged tools though! I've considered getting a camp axe or a combat axe with hammer pole for a while now. How do you like that 1/2 handle option?
 

Trial153

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I entirely agree. That was my exact thoughts before purchasing the Operator which is the thinner 5/32 stock. I found it much more manageable, but I find myself gravitating towards smaller blades in general these days. I owned an RMJ Eagle Talon years ago but much preferred my buddies Shrike. Boy are they both rugged tools though! I've considered getting a camp axe or a combat axe with hammer pole for a while now. How do you like that 1/2 handle option?

I like the hammer pole heads in shorter handle options because i feel like i have more control to prevent a bounce back. If that makes sense, i know its more in my head then anything else. With a spike like on the shrike 15" for me is must and honesly 17 or 18 would he better. If your looking for a serious little short handle hammer pole look at GB outdoor axe for light Brush craft and even meat work
 

CNW

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I like the hammer pole heads in shorter handle options because i feel like i have more control to prevent a bounce back. If that makes sense, i know its more in my head then anything else. With a spike like on the shrike 15" for me is must and honesly 17 or 18 would he better. If your looking for a serious little short handle hammer pole look at GB outdoor axe for light Brush craft and even meat work

I've never had the chance to handle any GB axes but have heard nothing but good things. Thanks for the tips!
 
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I like my LT Wright GNS. It’s O1 high carbon steel. Sharpened spine for striking a Ferro rod. Mine came with a leather sheath,which I prefer, but they also can make you up a Kydex sheath if you look at LTs website. If you practice good blade maintenance carbon steel isn’t as big of deal as it sounds. It won’t have the corrosion resistance of some of the super stainless. But while your trying to get an edge on the supers, you could strop the high carbon a few times and your back to shaving sharp and with a quick wipe to remove any moisture your good to go. Plus they give you that nice patina look. It makes it look like you’ve been somewhere then. Good luck!


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sndmn11

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Doizers D2 is class of its own, he has his heat treatment down to the T. Youd be hard pressed to find a better combination of ease of sharping to rentention. It has fairly high carbon content so no its not stanless that said its also not as a prone to rust

What does carbon content have to do with being stainless or not?
 
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