Complicated arrows and broad heads.

[Southern Heritage]

It may not be complicated to most However after reading about 20 post I still feel like I’m just stabbing at it on picking arrows.
I’m shooting a Mathews VXR 28 at 70lbs
Arrows are 27.5” Easton FMJ 5mm 400
It’s time to order some new arrows. Do I keep the same arrows or y’all recommend something out
I’m shooting 100g magnus buzz cur broad heads
Thank you

 

[ElkAB1212]

Tbh for the price to quality different I switched from FMJ to Axis Sounds like your setup is solid


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[Mighty Mouse]

400 spine is on the weak side at those specs, but if you can get your broadheads to tune, there's no reason you can't just order more of the same. If you do want to change things up, I'd recommend 340-350 spine if you plan to stick with a 100 gr head and lightweight (≈12-16 gr) insert.

Other general thoughts that are likely worth what you paid for them:

Price generally scales with straightness tolerance, but IMO most archers (myself included) can't shoot well enough to notice a difference in accuracy between a ±.001" and ±.006" arrow.

I personally prefer standard diameter (.244-246") arrows and think the juice isn't worth the squeeze with small (.204") or micro (.166") diameters. The theoretical decrease in wind drift and increase in penetration of smaller diameters comes at the cost of decreased component variety/availability.

Linear density (gpi) is a matter of personal preference and only really matters in relation to the total arrow weight you're targeting. Comparatively speaking, FMJ's are a high density arrow.

 

[SDHNTR]

.400 spine = too weak. Bump up to .340/.350.

 

[wayoh22]

Sounds to me like you need to be in that 340 spine, 400 is definitely on the weaker side. Not that there is anything wrong with that and like @Mighty Mouse said, if you can get them to tune then don't change it. If you want to switch it up I'd recommend the Axis in a 340 spine. I've been shooting them for the past 2 years and they've been nothing but a pleasure to tinker with.

 

[Billy Goat]

Price generally scales with straightness tolerance, but IMO most archers (myself included) can't shoot well enough to notice a difference in accuracy between a ±.001" and ±.006" arrow.

You really can't see a difference with broadheads?

I'll agree with field points it's fruitless, except most you get a more consistent spine within a batch of shafts.

But when I put broadheads on the front my groups are half the size with .001's versus .003's. That's after nock tuning. If only shooting 40-45 yards it's fine, but trying to tune at 65-70 yards I can tell a big difference. Speed is likely a factor in that too, 285-295 fps usually.


I have some wobbly, bent shafts, bent insert target arrows that still fly true, but broadheads show that stuff in a hurry.

To the op:
If your current setup is tuning, no need to change. But I would dump the fmj's personally. I also prefer a standard .244-.246 shaft.

You might be able to go to a lighter 340 spine and pick up a more durable shaft that's easier to tune and will match the speed you are currently shooting. It will cost less as well.

 

[Elkhntr08]

Unless you’re shooting a 75 grain head, the 400 spine is too weak. I shoot the same weight and arrow length with 100 grain heads. I have both FMJ 340 & 300.

 

[Billy Goat]

Looking at things closer, I'd just jump to 300 spine. The switchweight cams push a spine pretty hard. You can do a 300 spine shaft and be a lot more durable than what you are currently shooting, put a 125 head on and have the same weight you currently are shooting in an arrow, and also have a broadhead with a little more meat on it.


I got no problems with the magnus heads, excellent for the $ in my opinion.

 

[5MilesBack]

Complicated arrows and broad heads.​

Arrows are 27.5” Easton FMJ 5mm 400

FMJ's are a little more complicated IMO. After a bit of shooting they still look fine, but they just don't seem to be as accurate as they were the first time you shot them. For a couple weeks you start to think it's just you, and your shooting has gone to crap for some reason. You keep shooting wondering why your group dispersion just keeps growing a little at a time. And then you put those FMJ's on a spinner versus some brand new ones, and you can easily see the answer. The fronts of those arrows wobble like crazy, while the 1/2 dozen brand new arrows you kept back spin perfectly true. That was my experience with FMJ's in just a few short weeks. I've got carbon arrows I've been shooting since 2008 that still spin perfectly and still test within spine and straightness specs on a RAM tester.

 

[406unltd]

If you want to stick with easton I would move to the axis. I’d then get 340 for the bh flight that will probably be better for you.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

You really can't see a difference with broadheads?

I'll agree with field points it's fruitless, except most you get a more consistent spine within a batch of shafts.

But when I put broadheads on the front my groups are half the size with .001's versus .003's. That's after nock tuning. If only shooting 40-45 yards it's fine, but trying to tune at 65-70 yards I can tell a big difference. Speed is likely a factor in that too, 285-295 fps usually.

I honestly can't say I've seen my broadhead accuracy noticeably improve with ±.001" shafts compared to ±.003" or ±.006".

I always trim equal amounts from both ends when building arrows (regardless of straightness tolerance) and nock tune every finished arrow individually through paper. I'm also typically on the heavier/slower end of the arrow spectrum (mid-500 gr at 250-260 fps). Perhaps the combination of those factors is why I haven't noticed an accuracy improvement with straighter shafts...or maybe I just need to spend more time shooting and less time talking about shooting on Rokslide to improve my baseline accuracy.

 

[AkRyan]

I run the exact same measurements as you and the same bow. I have found 300 spine to be the sweet spot, 340 work also but my bow shoots the 300 better. I use fmj and axis shafts but prefer the axis. At 340 spine you won't really be able to go up in broad head or insert weight.