Recently Tbone turner mentioned you can never have too much arrow spine. I’m a total arrow noob and want to make sure I have my facts strait. Does that mean there is no penalty from using the stiffest spined arrow for all my set ups? Why have weaker spines on arrows at all?
Dumb spine question
- Thread starter jrc645
- Start date
From my experience I would disagree. I had some 300 spine Rampages and couldn't get my broad heads tuned to my field points. Later in the year I used 350s that were almost the same weight and did not have any issues. The 350s were from a different manufacturer and I'm certainly no archery expert, but too stiff a spine was the only reason I could figure caused the issue.
doncarpenter
WKR
In my experience a stiffer spine can sometimes make up for tuning deficits and can hide some flaws in your setup and form. Having said that its better to be over spined than under spined but its even better to be correctly spined. I think there are some really good resources out there to determine the correct spine you should be using. One of the best ways is to use an online spine calculator to determine if you are spined correctly. Some people say go one spine stiffer from what spine charts says, but most spine charts are assuming 100grain points.
Post your setup (bow, draw length, draw weight, point weight) and someone might be able to recommend a spine for you.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Post your setup (bow, draw length, draw weight, point weight) and someone might be able to recommend a spine for you.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
5MilesBack
"DADDY"
^^^^^ Exactly.
If it didn't matter all arrows would be 250 spine. For most people it probably make zero difference to be over spined at the ranges we hunt and shoot at. If you are shooting FITA it will matter a lot more since your shooting long distances and have to be very accurate. Personally i shoot my best groups with my bow when shooting arrows that are nearing the weaker end of the spine chart for my setup. I'm talking 70+ yard groups, i've never noticed a difference at short distances or with bare shafts. My wife and son both shoot a few sizes too big in spine for more durable and heavier arrows since they would need a very weak spine at there weight and length.
- Thread Starter
- #6
Mostly I’m trying to get a heavy arrow not High FOC or anything. Ideally 475-525 range. Since most spine charts usually give the 100 - 125 grain Broadhead numbers. I don’t know necessarily how to judge which spine I should go with.
I shoot prime centergy hybrid 29”draw length, 66 draw weight, ideally I’d like to use a 100 grain Broadhead.
The setup I’m looking to build is day six HD 300 cut to 29”(cut to end of riser) 324grains then add the 100 grain centric outsert with a 100 grain Broadhead. Total grains roughly in the 530 grain range with fletch and nock.
Luckily day six has charts with the footer weight and Broadhead weight. If my math is right I should be good. I just didn’t want to be underspined
Brendan
WKR
So, stiffer spine = heavier arrow (assuming same arrow). That could be a good thing or a bad thing depending on what you're looking for. Heavier shafted arrow for the same spine makes it harder to get higher FOC, you may or may not care about that.
Personally, I've never had an issue going too stiff in terms of tuning and arrow flight, that's what TBone and Aron were talking about. Especially if I make sure it's a good straight arrow, spins correctly, and my bow is tuned well. If you're talking about jumping up from a 340 to a 300, you won't have an issue.
With that said, People like Dudley do talk about the "HIL Method" or other group tuning of different spined arrows, and picking the spine that gives you the best groups. And I've heard people say that the "right" spine can give you better grouping than one that's too stiff or too weak. I just personally haven't done enough testing to see it, and usually try to stay in the good range to a little stiff and the arrows and bow are always more accurate than I am.
Personally, I've never had an issue going too stiff in terms of tuning and arrow flight, that's what TBone and Aron were talking about. Especially if I make sure it's a good straight arrow, spins correctly, and my bow is tuned well. If you're talking about jumping up from a 340 to a 300, you won't have an issue.
With that said, People like Dudley do talk about the "HIL Method" or other group tuning of different spined arrows, and picking the spine that gives you the best groups. And I've heard people say that the "right" spine can give you better grouping than one that's too stiff or too weak. I just personally haven't done enough testing to see it, and usually try to stay in the good range to a little stiff and the arrows and bow are always more accurate than I am.
Beendare
WKR
TBone is dead on...........................assuming we are talking a modern compound bow.
I've shot overspined arrows for over 20 years in my compounds...never had a tuning issue, in fact they tune so easy its silly.
My stickbows on the other hand are very touchy when it comes to spine.
...
..
I've shot overspined arrows for over 20 years in my compounds...never had a tuning issue, in fact they tune so easy its silly.
My stickbows on the other hand are very touchy when it comes to spine.
...
..
Ranch Fairy
FNG
300 will be fine. BUT, if you just slap them together and "roll"....maybe not.
So -
"Do you have a nock tune bro? It would be way cooler if you did"
This is a huge deal.
Every, single, arrow. BORING but worth the effort. Or shoot inconsistent arrows and work on your "shot cycle".
Broadheads will fly. I only carry 5-6 different ones in the golf bag. Don't worry, the weights are also ALL OVER THE PLACE. HA! 750 Grainers for under 20, 550 out to 40. One Pin!! HAAHHAHHAAHAH
Ok seriously. Please nock tune.
Make sure your inserts are perfect?
So -
"Do you have a nock tune bro? It would be way cooler if you did"
This is a huge deal.
Every, single, arrow. BORING but worth the effort. Or shoot inconsistent arrows and work on your "shot cycle".
Broadheads will fly. I only carry 5-6 different ones in the golf bag. Don't worry, the weights are also ALL OVER THE PLACE. HA! 750 Grainers for under 20, 550 out to 40. One Pin!! HAAHHAHHAAHAH
Ok seriously. Please nock tune.
Make sure your inserts are perfect?
You have to remember Tbone, Snyder, and Gillingham are all tuning wizards, Levi Morgan likes an arrow that's very close to being under spined, people like stiffer arrows for bunting because you don't want the arrow oscillating at close distances before it enters an animal.
- Thread Starter
- #12
Brendan
WKR
A program like OT2 does help. And if it saves you a mistake with one set of arrows, it pays for itself.
I've never had a spine issue and it's nice to mess around with different builds and see how the specs would turn out. I've never gone below the "green" in terms of being too weak, and have frequently shot "too stiff"
I've never had a spine issue and it's nice to mess around with different builds and see how the specs would turn out. I've never gone below the "green" in terms of being too weak, and have frequently shot "too stiff"
- Thread Starter
- #14
Thanks I never even thought to look for a program! I will definitely look into that.
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