Fixed broadhead tuning - longer distance

[nubraskan]

I heard some claims that some people are able to be successful at broadhead tuning at longer distances, so I decided to give it a shot. Generally I would get my bow paper tuned, then bareshaft tuned at 20, then dialed the broadhead at 30 (which generally didn't take much if any rest adjustment after the bareshaft).

This time I did the usual bareshaft to 20, then went immediately to broadhead tuning at 70 yards (Micro hades 100gr). They were hitting ~8" low right off the bat and it took a lot of vertical rest adjustment to have them hitting with the field points. Out of morbid curiosity, I launched a bareshaft at 70 yards and it sailed over the target absurdly high. For some more testing, I backed up to 100 and the broadheads are hitting quite a bit low still, about 7-9" on average.

Now the question is, is it futile trying to get my fixed broadheads tuned at 70+ yards, or am I missing something? My assumption now is that the added drag of the broadhead (especially a vented broadhead) is slowing it down enough that at extended ranges they will probably always group low.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

You're correct that a broadhead induces more drag and will hit noticeably lower than field points (even if the bow is perfectly tuned) if shot at long enough distances. Where that vertical POI difference becomes noticeable depends on broadhead size/shape and arrow speed (among other factors). If broadhead-to-field point POI difference becomes significant within your maximum effective hunting range, you'll just have to adjust your sight pins/tape to match where the broadheads are hitting.

 

[realunlucky]

In this week's Rokcast Daykota from day six gear and Bill from iron will share how they tune for broadheads-
https://www.rokslide.com/tt30-bow-tuning-with-daykota-kime-and-the-cold-bow-challenge/

Should find a couple good tips in it.

 

[nphunter]

It's not that hard to get them hitting together at long distances when conditions are perfect. Level ground, good form, good follow through, low wind. I'm getting ready for the cold bow challenge and my fixed heads easily hit the face of my 18:1 with my FP if I do my part.

I like to tune with fixed heads and I also group tune with fixed heads at long distances. I hunt with expandables because I like the damage they do better and they are more forgiving under less-than-perfect conditions, I still want my bow shooting the best it can be.

From what I've experienced, you actually have to take your bow out of tune to make FP & BH hit together at long range, essentially you need to be shooting tail low for your BH to match due to the extra drag. To me all tuning, paper, bare shaft, etc. is to achieve an acceptable final result, if that result is to have your fixed heads flying exactly like your field points then who cares about how a bare shaft shoots.

I like to group tune fixed heads so that I can shoot the tightest groups possible at longer distances with BH, I use a bow to kill stuff and my #1 priority is knowing my BH is hitting behind my pin. I never shoot a bare shaft again after getting my bow tuned how I want.

 

[wyodog]

You're correct that a broadhead induces more drag and will hit noticeably lower than field points (even if the bow is perfectly tuned) if shot at long enough distances. Where that vertical POI difference becomes noticeable depends on broadhead size/shape and arrow speed (among other factors). If broadhead-to-field point POI difference becomes significant within your maximum effective hunting range, you'll just have to adjust your sight pins/tape to match where the broadheads are hitting.

I agree with this statement. bare shafts have almost no drag compared to an arrow with fletching and Broadhead increases drag a bit more. Also, broadheads a typically longer that field points which changes the FOC. At some point downrange the higher FOC will cause the nose of the arrow to nose down more than a field point does, compound that with increased drag and the differences become noticeable at longer ranges.

 

[5MilesBack]

I typically BH tune at 60, then BH's are good at least to 60......and I've shot them as far as 90 and still been really close. Not enough off that it would make a difference for most kill shots. But I generally haven't had to shoot much past 60 anyway for hunting.

If you want to BH tune for long range, then BH tune for long range.....and stop shooting BS's and/or paper. Also, I generally set my rest with my arrow at 90 degrees from the string and then tune with cables for BH elevation adjustment.

 

[nubraskan]

I typically BH tune at 60, then BH's are good at least to 60......and I've shot them as far as 90 and still been really close. Not enough off that it would make a difference for most kill shots. But I generally haven't had to shoot much past 60 anyway for hunting.

If you want to BH tune for long range, then BH tune for long range.....and stop shooting BS's and/or paper. Also, I generally set my rest with my arrow at 90 degrees from the string and then tune with cables for BH elevation adjustment.

Generally I never touch a bareshaft once I broadhead tune, I was just curious how it would behave. I wasn't planning to change anything based on the bareshaft result at that distance. However, it did confirm that my rest position is launching a lower resistance projectile much higher than one with fletching

I probably posed my overall question poorly, but it's more into the theory of a broadhead tune at longer ranges and what makes sense in terms of a BH tuning distance.

I'll re-confirm later today, but my BH's are probably hitting higher than my FP's now at shorter ranges and then re-group with my FP's at 70, then begin dropping again at longer ranges. So essentially they aren't hitting with my FP's at my initial 30 yard BH tune. My assumption is that in order to account for the extra drag of the BH, they have to launch at a higher angle and plane up higher to account for the longer hang time / additional drop at distance. So, if I were to continue to push the distance and get the BH's hitting with FP's at 100, the BH's would be hitting significantly higher than my FP's at 70 yards and in. Obviously that isn't desirable since I likely won't be trying to take game with a fixed BH at that distance, so I am assuming I should probably move my BH tune back into a more desirable range.

 

[Beendare]

I know guys that have their BH's shooting with FP's at 70.

 

[nubraskan]

I confirmed again that my BHs are hitting with my FPs at 70. I brought everything in to 30 yards and the BHs are still grouping with FPs, so my theory was wrong that the BHs would be grouping higher as I moved closer. Maybe I'll increase the distance back to 100 and check again tomorrow

 

[MattB]

Generally I never touch a bareshaft once I broadhead tune, I was just curious how it would behave. I wasn't planning to change anything based on the bareshaft result at that distance. However, it did confirm that my rest position is launching a lower resistance projectile much higher than one with fletching.

Not at all. What you learned is that arrows with more drag (fletchings or fletching plus exposed blades) drop more over distance because they decelerate more quickly, and you are mis-attributing that added drop to your rest launching low resistance arrows higher.

 

[NYSKIER]

I usually take these steps
1. Bareshaft with field point out to 20 yards
2. Once this is good I check my broadheads which are usually on line
3. With all three in line I shoot field points with broad heads which with fixed usually fly together to 70.
4 After 70 I know by broadheads start to sink so I either A) Figure out how much higher to aim or B) dial an extra yard in my tape and I’m usually good to go out to 100

***Other step step I take after #3 is once I know everything is in line I forget shooting field points and shoot broad heads only adjusting my sight accordingly