Hot Tent Batoning Knife

treillw

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Have a SO Large Ti stove. Would like to get a knife for batoning. Thinking of getting this one. Cheap, don't care if it breaks, and other people seem to like it.


Would like it to be as lightweight as possible.

Any reason to look elsewhere?
How big of a stick can you baton with it?
How big of a stick do you really need to baton with it?

Most of the wood around here has a lot of branches. I never batoned anything before, but I can see it being challenging.

The only time I envision using it is when I can't get the fire to burn properly with all rounds.

Thanks!
 
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If you figure you need an inch or so of blade to hit with the baton, you can probably get about 3" logs with that knife. I like an Esee 5 for batoning, but still prefer a hatchet when I can justify the weight.
 

Marbles

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I've been using a Benchmade Saddle Mountain Skinner, so that one should work from a size perspective.

Personally, I would want the cutting edce to come closer to the handle. Not sure what to recommend as ESEE or Ka-Bar are the cheapest options I can think of. The BK-16 is nice, but heavy compared to the Saddle Mountain and expensive compared to what you posted. The Benchmade Leuku would be great, but is expensive.

Moras have a large following, the Kansbol would probably work well. https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/1...w9ihm_hKGUpG-JO4f8onTEK-QkG8A4aRoCPxwQAvD_BwE

Guess I could think of cheaper options 😉
 

bbassi

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I use a Morakniv Companion. You want something with a pretty thick blade, but the price is right!
 
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treillw

treillw

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The leuku looks pretty nice. How is benchmades warranty? It's an expensive knife to beat the crap out of. But it sounds like that is the intended use for the knife?? Would they cover any damage that occurred from batoning?
 
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The leuku looks pretty nice. How is benchmades warranty? It's an expensive knife to beat the crap out of. But it sounds like that is the intended use for the knife?? Would they cover any damage that occurred from batoning?
Esee:
THE FINE PRINT:

  • Our warranty is pretty simple: if you break it, we will repair or replace it. We will not question the validity of your warranty claim for a broken knife, handles, sheath, clip plate or hardware. Warranty is lifetime and transferable. In other words, we warranty these products no matter how many times they have been traded, sold or given away – no sales receipt or proof of purchase required. We must have these products returned to validate a warranty claim.
  • ESEE KNIVES ARE NOT THROWING KNIVES! They are hardened to a higher Rockwell than throwing knives and will most likely break if thrown, possibly harming the user. So, do yourself and your ESEE knife a favor and DO NOT throw it. Using any knife not meant to be thrown as a throwing knife is idiotic! We would rather idiots not buy our knives.
  • We do not warranty against rust, normal wear and tear, loss, or theft. If you need replacement handles, sheaths, clip plates or hardware due to loss or normal wear, please visit our store.
  • We do not warranty consumables found in our survival kits.
  • Our carbon steel knives are made from 1095 High Carbon Steel. And while 1095 is a top choice for professional field knives, it will rust and stain if not properly cared for – especially on the cutting edge and around the laser engraving. It is the user’s responsibility to keep the blades properly lubricated and cleaned. It is normal for the coating to wear with use.
  • Our stainless knives are warrantied just like our carbon steel knives. However, we advise that because they are hardened to a higher Rockwell hardness than our carbon steel knives, they are easier to break if you pry with them.
  • This no-questions-asked warranty only applies to ESEE Knives and EXPAT Knives. All Avispa and Zancudo folder warranty requests must go to Blueridge Knives (not ESEE Knives), since we do not manufacture these products.
 
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treillw

treillw

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Esee:
THE FINE PRINT:

  • Our warranty is pretty simple: if you break it, we will repair or replace it. We will not question the validity of your warranty claim for a broken knife, handles, sheath, clip plate or hardware. Warranty is lifetime and transferable. In other words, we warranty these products no matter how many times they have been traded, sold or given away – no sales receipt or proof of purchase required. We must have these products returned to validate a warranty claim.
  • ESEE KNIVES ARE NOT THROWING KNIVES! They are hardened to a higher Rockwell than throwing knives and will most likely break if thrown, possibly harming the user. So, do yourself and your ESEE knife a favor and DO NOT throw it. Using any knife not meant to be thrown as a throwing knife is idiotic! We would rather idiots not buy our knives.
  • We do not warranty against rust, normal wear and tear, loss, or theft. If you need replacement handles, sheaths, clip plates or hardware due to loss or normal wear, please visit our store.
  • We do not warranty consumables found in our survival kits.
  • Our carbon steel knives are made from 1095 High Carbon Steel. And while 1095 is a top choice for professional field knives, it will rust and stain if not properly cared for – especially on the cutting edge and around the laser engraving. It is the user’s responsibility to keep the blades properly lubricated and cleaned. It is normal for the coating to wear with use.
  • Our stainless knives are warrantied just like our carbon steel knives. However, we advise that because they are hardened to a higher Rockwell hardness than our carbon steel knives, they are easier to break if you pry with them.
  • This no-questions-asked warranty only applies to ESEE Knives and EXPAT Knives. All Avispa and Zancudo folder warranty requests must go to Blueridge Knives (not ESEE Knives), since we do not manufacture these products.

That sounds good. If they do lifetime sharpening, I might be sold.
 

Marbles

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The leuku looks pretty nice. How is benchmades warranty? It's an expensive knife to beat the crap out of. But it sounds like that is the intended use for the knife?? Would they cover any damage that occurred from batoning?

I like my Benchmades and have never used their warranty service. They have a decent reputation with warranty, but not as good as say Ka-Bar, ESEE, or Leatherman. Their warranty is also only for the original owner, which I consider a load of bull, possession of the product should be all that is needed. That said, I hear they don't aways ask for proof of purchase.

I look at it this way, if I manage to break a knife with reasonable use for the design I'm unlikely to give the company a second chance. That said, the 1095 used by Ka-Bar and ESEE holds up to batoning, and the 3V in the Leuku is tougher.

The S90V Saddle Mountain has held up so far, and that steel is not as tough as 1095.
 
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treillw

treillw

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I like my Benchmades and have never used their warranty service. They have a decent reputation with warranty, but not as good as say Ka-Bar, ESEE, or Leatherman. Their warranty is also only for the original owner, which I consider a load of bull, possession of the product should be all that is needed. That said, I hear they don't aways ask for proof of purchase.

I look at it this way, if I manage to break a knife with reasonable use for the design I'm unlikely to give the company a second chance. That said, the 1095 used by Ka-Bar and ESEE holds up to batoning, and the 3V in the Leuku is tougher.

The S90V Saddle Mountain has held up so far, and that steel is not as tough as 1095.

So the Leuku has the toughest steel of all of the options so far?
 
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treillw

treillw

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The Leuku is hard to find. I have a bunch of store credit for Cabelas, Brownells, and Moosejaw. Wish they would carry it.
 
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That ESEE 5 needs to go on a diet though.
That is for sure. Feels great in the hand, but is heavy. I carry a 3 or 4 most of the time. I also have their AGK knife for when I'm only planning on cutting meat and food. It's downright svelte compared to the 5
 

Marbles

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So the Leuku has the toughest steel of all of the options so far?

On paper. Heat treat and blade geometry play into it as well, but 3V is an awesome steel that is about 3x as tough as 1095.
 
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I have both the ESEE 5 and 6 and they are different animals. The 6 is a much better all-around camp and field knife and is great for batoning. Even though it is longer than the 5, it is thinner, lighter, perfectly balanced and does not cause as much hand fatigue.

If ESEE is too expensive for you, Ontario RAT knives are also good and are a similar models although I think the ESEE knives are a bit nicer and have a better warranty.

I have a few Fallkniven knives and they are just as good if not better then ESEE but are more expensive. They will do better than ESEE knives in a wet environment.

I love Moras and have a few but I would not use them for batoning wood. Very few moras have a full tang (which i think is vital for batoning wood) except the Garberg and then you are almost at ESEE prices.
 
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treillw

treillw

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So reality check here... one of these plastic felling wedges probably weighs a few ounces. I'd think it's lighter than a knife. Definitely cheaper. Would you be able to pound one of these though a log with another log to "baton"?

I guess there might be a lot more resistance trying to drive the plastic through vs a sharp knife.

 

rclouse79

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Batoning wood always seemed like an activity for people who are bored and are looking for an excuse to use their knife for an ill suited task. If you are not interested in earning your bushcraft merit badge, I would either saw smaller diameter wood that does not need to be split or bring a hatchet. If the act of splitting wood with a knife lowers your blood pressure, I wish luck in your quest.
 
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treillw

treillw

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Batoning wood always seemed like an activity for people who are bored and are looking for an excuse to use their knife for an ill suited task. If you are not interested in earning your bushcraft merit badge, I would either saw smaller diameter wood that does not need to be split or bring a hatchet. If the act of splitting wood with a knife lowers your blood pressure, I wish luck in your quest.

From the couple youtube video knife reviews I've watched, batoning seems to be a "cool thing to do" with a knife. The only reason I'm considering it is we had a decent amount of trouble getting the fire going well last year at the beginning of MT rifle season - 3' of snow overnight and 20 below. Seemed to take forever to get the stove going with snow caked rounds. Had some suggest batoning to make things easier.
 
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treillw

treillw

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In the breaks at the end of the season, I was burning 3"+ diameter rounds with no problem in the Ti stove. That wood was dry as a bone.

I also have invested in some fire starters since the rifle opener.
 
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