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So I want to make sure I am thinking along the correct lines with this Quick Drop stuff.
I ran my ballistics app using a 108 ELDM @ 3000 fps. To get my estimated "quick drops" to match dead on with the calculator, or to be within .1 mil, I had to deduct higher values from the base as my distance increased.
For my from 300-400 Yard I deducted .5 mils. From 400-500 I deducted .7 mils. From 500-600 I deducted 1 mil.
Am I way off in my thinking or understanding of the concept? Would I be better off to average out my base deduction? How many mils off in calculation is acceptable to still hit my target? .1, .2, .3 or is that all distance dependent?
Hopefully I am making sense. It is midnight though so I may be way the hell off on grasping all this.
So I used what @Formidilosus recommended. I didn't round up on my second numbers, I just used the second number at face value.What I would do is-
300= 1 mil.
300-500y= .5 mil off base
500-700y= 1 mil off base
| Yardage | My Estimate | Strelok |
| 385 | 1.3 Mils | 1.3 Mils |
| 425 | 1.7 Mils | 1.6 Mils |
| 583 | 2.8 Mils | 2.8 Mils |
| 645 | 3.4 Mils | 3.3 Mils |
| 363 | 1.1 Mils | 1.2 Mils |
| 487 | 2.3 Mils | 2.1 Mils |
| 515 | 2.1 Mils | 2.3 Mils |
| 635 | 3.3 Mils | 3.3 Mils |
| 700 | 4.0 Mils | 3.8 Mils |
So I used what @Formidilosus recommended. I didn't round up on my second numbers, I just used the second number at face value.
Strelok has a nifty "speed drop factor"So I used what @Formidilosus recommended. I didn't round up on my second numbers, I just used the second number at face value.
Yardage My Estimate Strelok 385 1.3 Mils 1.3 Mils 425 1.7 Mils 1.6 Mils 583 2.8 Mils 2.8 Mils 645 3.4 Mils 3.3 Mils 363 1.1 Mils 1.2 Mils 487 2.3 Mils 2.1 Mils 515 2.1 Mils 2.3 Mils 635 3.3 Mils 3.3 Mils 700 4.0 Mils 3.8 Mils
This is what I love about this forum. I have learned so much in the course of this past year. In a matter of about an hour of reading and practicing tonight, and because of people like @Formidilosus who willingly help and share information, I was able to pick 9 random yardages and calculate my drop within .2 mil. (Just like @Formidilosus said.)
I really appreciate all the individuals on here who willingly, and non judgmentally, contribute their knowledge and experience.


That's because it was made by a Russian dude, and they suspended any money or payments to Russians.I just upgraded phones and Strelok is no longer available… had it on the old one and can’t get it on the new. Was my go to app as well. Pretty bummed, lost all my rifle data I had stored there well. Now need to create new rifle profiles in another app. Playing with Hornady 4DOF and shooter. I don’t like the shooter app as well.
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Strelok has a nifty "speed drop factor" View attachment 584089View attachment 584090
Yes, it is the same idea, however when “Speed Drop” is explained it is down in a confusing way. The cleanest and easiet way mentally to do it is remember that “2” comes off the frost numbe run the range, than the decimal is used. So 530 yards becomes 3.3 mils. Memorize the “Base” completely, then you figure out what your correction off the base is. For his gun/ammo, .5 mils off base from 400-500 yards, and 1 mil off base past 500 yards is easier to remember and use under stress.
Yes, I would have no idea what that Speed Drop chart meant had I not already been introduced to the quick mil calculations you have shown. It's just a handy reference for me to figure out if it's a "good" gun, "bad" gun or something different.Yes, it is the same idea, however when “Speed Drop” is explained it is down in a confusing way. The cleanest and easiet way mentally to do it is remember that “2” comes off the frost numbe run the range, than the decimal is used. So 530 yards becomes 3.3 mils. Memorize the “Base” completely, then you figure out what your correction off the base is. For his gun/ammo, .5 mils off base from 400-500 yards, and 1 mil off base past 500 yards is easier to remember and use under stress.
Yes, I would have no idea what that Speed Drop chart meant had I not already been introduced to the quick mil calculations you have shown. It's just a handy reference for me to figure out if it's a "good" gun, "bad" gun or something different.
Thank you for the great tutorial. I will save it for future reference.Select "velocity calibration".
This screen will appear. It will let you input multiple ranges and the actual adjustments needed to hit center. I used one range so put "600" for distance and "4.1" for the adjusted.
Go to the bottom and hit "calculate". The "trued" muzzle velocity will appear. Then hit "use MV". The system backward calculates the true muzzle velocity and changes your settings. Now the drop card reflects what you actually needed to hit- i.e. It has been "trued".
You can do this without the shortcut by manually changing the MV until the projected drop matches your actual.
After this we're done. The gun is zeroed and the ballistic program is trued out to 600 yards. It will now give you good data for all ranges 600 and in. I didn't hear, but you want to true if possible as close to transonic as you can. It gives you the best data. In all this remember- garbage in, garbage out. Input good data.
P.S. You'll note that there are no extra holes, no "whoopsies", no "flyers", no nonsense. Solid rifles, solid ammo, and solid optics with matching reticle and turrets is the easiest and simplest to use system that you can buy.
So I didn’t lift it but it didn’t click when I turned it. Should be good? Going to the range again tomorrow so I’ll be able to make sure.Make sure to loosen it enough that you can lift it off the splines, and make sure it doesn't click when you spin it to zero.
Thanks to this thread, I just zeroed my new rifle with my first mil scope easy peasy.
Bore sighted and fired 10 rounds.
Adjusted down 1 mil and right .7 mils using the “ruler” reticle.
Fired 3 more shots.
Not bad for the first 13 rounds through this barrel. Thanks for the how-to Form.
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