Paper Tuning Help

[Pelagic]

After having accuracy issues when I started practicing with fixed blade heads from field points, I thought I needed to properly tune my bow, so have started paper tuning it. I began with consistent bottom right tears and made the adjustments to bring that left before working on the bottom tear:
View attachment 74383

Then, to fix the bottom/low tear, I moved my arrow rest down ever so slightly. I actually don't know if I can move the rest any farther down because I'm pretty sure I've hit the lowest that rest adjustment will allow me to go. So now, when shooting after making that adjustment down, the arrow flight has an extreme high tear, indicating that the arrow is hitting something on the way out:
View attachment 74384

I confirmed this with some video I took slowed down:
Arrow Flight 3 - YouTube

In the video, to my eye, it almost seems like the fletching is hitting the arrow rest before the arrow rest drops away. You can see the rest bouncing back up after what looks like the fletching passing through it. I'm still new to archery so wanted to run this by you guys as this doesn't seem normal.

However, I was NOT getting extreme tears like this before I made this vertical adjustment down on my arrow rest. So I would think that this adjustment is whats causing the problem and not a faulty rest, but if so, how can I fix this low tear issue if I can't go any lower on my rest? Or based on the video, does it seem like there is some issue with the rest?

Shooting Easton Axis 340 spine 30 inch arrows. 70lb draw weight.

Here is a different view: Arrow Flight 2 - YouTube

Any input is appreciated.

 

[92xj]

Is your arrow rest string attached to your limbs?
Is your arrow rest string tight when fully drawn and slack and loose when let down? (it looks that way in the video)

 

[92xj]

I didn't notice you had "Video 3" posted, I only saw Video 2 at the bottom.

After watching video 3, it looks like your rest stays up until the fletchings actually push it down out of the way, then the rest pops up until the strings pulls it down well after the arrow has left. Your rest string setup has to be jacked up somehow. I think you have lowered your rest without adjusting the string creating slack that allows the rest to stand up way too long.

 

[OR Archer]

Did you take the time to make sure the Cam timing was set before starting the tuning process? If not you need to do that first.

 

[wncbrewer]

Rest contact can cause all kinds of crazy tears and it’s something I’ve experienced for myself. If you moved your rest down, you likely need to tighten the driver cord for the rest to accommodate for the slack you put in it by moving the rest down. Some rests are more sensitive to the proper tension than others. I used to have a ripcord limb driven that was so finicky I eventually got rid of it and went to a smackdown. As was mentioned above, I would also check your cam timing.


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[nexus]

I agree with the above postings, the video clearly shows the arrow hitting the rest. At the very end of video 3 the cord for the rest appears to be way too long and loose. I am betting this is your problem. Go on YouTube and look up the installation and timing instructions for the rest.

I would also recommend that you adjust the rest height and corresponding nock height to prevent the rest from hitting the shelf and bouncing back. Set the rest height through the center to top half of the Berger hole and adjust the string nock height to be from dead-nuts level to 1/4" high. Set the center shot 3/4 to 13/16" off the bow riser. Then start over on the paper tuning.

Let us know what happens.

 

[Pelagic]

Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna check the cam timing and then address the rest and rest cord and see if that helps. Will report the results back here.

 

[Pelagic]

Ok, so took my bow in to have these things looked at. Had the cams timed (they were off by about 1/4 inch), tightened up the rest string a bit which did seem to fix the issue with it not popping down in time for the fletchings to clear, moved the nock point slightly up, and moved the rest to the right since it was off according to the them. Then shot a few through paper at the shop and was shooting perfect bullet holes. Felt great. Then took it home and shot close enough to where I shot at the shop: View attachment 74621

So am pretty happy now with where I'm at tuning-wise. Now, I'm gonna start walk back tuning with field points, then with broadheads and make left/right adjustments to try to bring the broadhead flight in line with the field tips.

One thing the archery shop owner was telling me was that my broadheads at 125 grains were too heavy for my current setup (29 inch draw, 30 inch arrow length, .340 spine, 68-70lb draw) and that I should move to 100 grain heads. I thought my FOC with current setup was pretty good and that I should be ok with 125 grain heads. What do you guys think?

 

[OR Archer]

It’s not an FOC issue but more of a spine issue with the 125gr that he was probably referring to. Depending on what bow you’re shooting you may be a little weak on spine which might be why he suggested lowering your tip weight.

 

[Pelagic]

It’s not an FOC issue but more of a spine issue with the 125gr that he was probably referring to. Depending on what bow you’re shooting you may be a little weak on spine which might be why he suggested lowering your tip weight.

I'm shooting a Hoyt Defiant 34" at 70lb draw. Thinking of going from 125 grain to 100 grain BHs. Think the 100 grain heads would be an improvement? That would put my arrow weight with 100 grain head at about 460 grains total.

 

[OR Archer]

It’s not going to hurt anything to drop to a 100gr head. I don’t think it’ll make a big difference though.

 

[Topo_trekker]

You arrows are too weak even with 100grains and x hit inserts for your specs. Either back you draw weight down or move to 300 spine arrow. Always shoot a little stiffer arrow.


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