Rifle Build - Rem 700

[Cyclones88]

Looking for some input. I was given a Remington 700 3006. I would like to make some upgrades to it to turn it into a long range mountain hunting rifle. What upgrades make the biggest performance difference and what do you recommend? What is unnecessary? This will mainly be a hunting rifle and recreational shooting rifle.

-Barrel: Remage, prefit, other?
-Stock upgrade?
-Is blueprinting necessary?
-Should i get 8-40 mounting holes? Or any other action work in general?
-Trigger: Trigger tech, jewell, keep stock trigger?

I have read alot of different posts on this but just looking for some more information. Thanks in advance.

 

[hereinaz]

Don’t overthink it or get swayed that the differences between the best brands and models. The difference is between a factory trigger and high quality trigger. Most everything else is mostly in the mind. Features might attract you, but performance will be so similar.

I built my first long range rifle from a Savage, with $800 including a used 12x SWFA and shot as good or better at 1000 yard than custom rifles with custom loads at the intro to long range class I attended as a newbie. I still really haven’t had a rifle that was significantly more precise at 100 yards. Better configurated and smoother, sure. In the end it’s whether the bullet goes where you aim. Scoreboard…

1) Trigger. I run Trigger Tech Special between 1.5 and 2 pounds. The diamond more expensive for nothing to me. It feels the same to me but goes lower than 1.5. Timney, Bixn Andy, they are all good. No need to get hung up on which is better.

2) Stock. Get a good stiff stock. I like a vertical grip for long range work. AG composite, Greyboe, Stockys are all very good. McMillan and Manners are primo stuff.

Get M5 bottom metal if you want to run magazines. Either way, get M5 inlet so you can run the Hawkins or Greyboe M5 inlet BDL and swap to M5 magazines later. A stock with M5 inlet is always easier to resell too.

Cut the stock to fit you. The length of pull is shorter if you are shooting long range and adopt the square to the rifle position that allows for spotting your shots easier with recoil control. The elbow crease to trigger finger is a rule of thumb for shotguns and rifles shot in field positions without the front and rear support of precision rifle techniques.

Or, get a chassis with all the adjustments.

3) See if some match type ammo shoots good groups. If not, rebarrel it into a 280 ai, 6.5x284, or something like that that has good long range ammo unless you handload and get a custom twist for heavier bullets.

4) Action work? I haven’t ever upgraded the rail holes. I just use loctite under the rail to sort of bed it and help adhere and loctite the bolts after degreasing the action holes and screws. If the screw holes at messed up and not aligned or stripped, then yea drill them out.

If you have a smith do the barrel, it can be trued up. But, it’s not always going to return any meaningful benefit. Depends on how bad it is.

5) Put on a good prefit. That can usually make a big difference in performance with the above. You can lap the lugs when the barrel is off.

6) I like a Sako extractor, that’s a good upgrade, and have the bolt knob threaded. Eventually you will have a piece of brass that gets stuck, and the extractor is critical. Or, the factory extractor fails at the wrong time.

There are mail in services for that and fluting that are reasonable. The side bolt release never meant much to me to pay for it.

 

[djauofd]

I’ll basically write everything that everyone has said. I guess the real question are you willing to change caliber. One of the biggest surprises for me was using a 1-8 twist with a 270 win . This was 7 or 8 years ago. Before you only had the Berger 170 EOL and the 165 and 170 matrix bullets. Now that the 6.8 western is here there are going to be tons of bullets in heavy for caliber selection for .277.

If you hand load the 270 win is tough to beat. 170 Berger’s at 2,900 fps from a 26” barrel. I can still run lighter bullets is I want . 130’s thru 150’ but for long range hunting and some target work it hard to beat. I’ll attach some ballistics at sea level.

If you hand load could do a 284 win in a long action. Have one of these as well, long action custom throat loads 183 SMK’s at a COAL of 3.381. The 270 win is in Magpul 700 Hunter stock. The 284 win is a KRG X-ray. The 284 is in a 28” barrel so it’s more a target rifle.

If your looking for off shelf ammo get a 6.8 western. It will hang with most anything except the most extreme cartridge’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hereinaz]

From an economics standpoint, I'd sell that rifle and buy a Mack Bros action or Origin or just step up to something like a Lone Peak Fuzion or Impact NBK.

But, if you have sentimental value in that rifle and just want to make it something useable, the following are my thoughts in order:

Stock/Chassis - a stock/chassis that fits your body correctly and better accommodates shooting fundamentals is the most important rifle component in my opinion. The importance of this component cannot be overstated. I would get out and spend some time with varying options, but you are looking for features such as vertical (or near vertical) grip, high & flat comb (preferably adjustable), high heel (no monte carlo), flat portion of toe for bag rider, preferably adjustable length of pull, preferably adjustable grip-to-trigger distance, foreend parallel with bore, ability to add arca rail or pic rail or flush cups, etc.

Barrel - a quality barrel chambered by someone that knows what they are doing will provide the most in terms of mechanical precision. In the big scheme of things, $800 for a quality barrel & barrel work is a pretty small price to pay.

Trigger - A TriggerTech Primary or Bix N Andy is an easy upgrade and doesn't cost much. I'd avoid going too light, especially at first. Start at 3 or 3.5 pounds for a field gun. That won't have any negative impact on precision/accuracy, but it will help you work on trigger control and safety in general.

Action - If you are already having barrelwork done and making some other improvements, I would have the action blueprinted, add a bolt knob, tig the bolt handle to the bolt body, upsize the optic mount holes to 8-40, upgrade the extractor, and pin recoil lug. You might want some fluting or faceting, but that's just for looks obviously. It's pretty easy to spend $800+ dollars on correcting an R700 action.

This is another good possibility. Any Rem 700 parts you buy like trigger and stock can be switched over to the custom actions if you don't get the the results you want. Put the factory parts back and and sell the Rem 700. Some barrel nut prefits might switch over if the new action has Rem 700 threads and cone bolt. I think Mack Bros might.

Before you spend money on a smith to fix a Rem 700, it really is better to sell it and go custom.

 

[Tmac]

Looking for some input. I was given a Remington 700 3006. I would like to make some upgrades to it to turn it into a long range mountain hunting rifle. What upgrades make the biggest performance difference and what do you recommend? What is unnecessary? This will mainly be a hunting rifle and recreational shooting rifle.

-Barrel: Remage, prefit, other?
-Stock upgrade?
-Is blueprinting necessary?
-Should i get 8-40 mounting holes? Or any other action work in general?
-Trigger: Trigger tech, jewell, keep stock trigger?

I have read alot of different posts on this but just looking for some more information. Thanks in advance.

Have you shot the rifle? Barrel may be just fine. Rem triggers can be made pretty good as far as how they feel, they do have other issues. The cost of decent Rem700 triggers is not bad and probably a better move than having one worked on.

One of best and most consistent shooting rifles I have is a factory SS 700 that just had a better stock and trigger put on it. The best shooting rifle I own is a completely stock Tikka T3X. It is a little better shooter than a couple custom rifles with Brux and Krieger tubes I have, go figure.

So my answer to your ?ions would be: maybe, yes, maybe, no, probably not, yes. If I had zero emotional attachment to that R700, I sell it and get a stainless Tikka and don't look back.

 

[TaperPin]

What do you want for a caliber? Whats your budget? What animals are you after? On foot or horseback? How far can you shoot?

Mountain hunting means every ounce counts. Look for the lightest stock you can find - I liked the Brown Precision kevlar stock, but there are a lot of stocks to choose from, but make sure to look up the weight on anything you buy.

I will shoot to 400 yards - that doesn’t require 1/2 MOA groups, but any decent long range rifle should group around 1 MOA. The weak link in any light mountain rifle is the guy behind the trigger. You would be a better hunter if you spent $600 on ammunition for the barrel you have instead of getting a custom barrel. My barrel choice is a #2 stainless Shillen in 7mag - no action blueprinting, no fancy chamber - it puts as many shots as you want into a 1-1/2” hole at 200 yards with a simple 6x Leupold even with Barnes x bullets.

Mountain weather is often a little wet - I had my blued Remington 700 industrial hard chrome plated and it was every bit as good as stainless.

The high powered scopes are bulky, heavy, more prone to damage than a simple compact scope in the 3x9 range. Lenses covered in water are very bad - get quality flip up covers and practice opening them.

Get a good set of two piece scope mounts and epoxy them to your receiver. I like the steel Warne detachable mounts lapped so they don’t make marks on the scope. I’ve never known any hunter that stripped out the factory screws, but larger base Screws won’t hurt, they just aren’t needed.

Get a good trigger in the two pound range. I never had any complaints with Timney.

Get a simple 1” nylon strap for sling - it’s super light and all you need. Leave the bulky gimic slings to someone else.

If you carry a rangefinder, and you should, there’s nothing wrong with a 30-06. I’d load it with 180 gr Barnes x and feel prepared for anything in the lower 48.

If you’re mainly after deer there’s nothing wrong with 270 or .280.

The worst thing you could do is treat it like a tactical rifle and get trendy heavy parts unless you are in really great shape - then it’s not really a mountain rifle.

Get a 10” steel square plate and practice shooting it in field conditions - spend as much as you can on practice ammo.

 

[Wrench]

I always go through the basics.

How much money is available?

How much do you want it to weigh?

How long of barrel and where do you want it to balance?

What stock shape do you like?

By the time you get through these....with the bore diameter pre chosen, a decent smith will help you get what you want or tell you you're not going to be able to meet your goal.

Fancy cuts and finish eat up money fast and don't add anything.....but are very important to some.

 

[Cahunter805]

I’d personally put a trigger and stock on it. Bed the action and go shoot it. If you handload I would choose something like the 168-180VLD/ELD and see how the rifle shoots. Under MOA I’d start testing at longer distances to fine tune and then practice practice practice. Then go kill critters.

 

[BooneHunter]

I’d personally put a trigger and stock on it. Bed the action and go shoot it. If you handload I would choose something like the 168-180VLD/ELD and see how the rifle shoots. Under MOA I’d start testing at longer distances to fine tune and then practice practice practice. Then go kill critters.

I agree this sounds like a good approach. If the OP finds he wants wants to go a different route with action/barrel he’s already got the stock and trigger squared away.

I’d also suggest setting realistic accuracy expectations up front so there’s no disappointment down the road.

Lastly, if cost and lead time is a concern I would consider some of the higher end factory offerings for +/- $2k. OP could put a new stock and trigger on the 700, buy another gun in a different cartridge, and still be around the same all in cost as action work & rebarreling the 700. Not including optics of course.

 

[JohnJohnson]

Start with a trigger and stock/chassis if you're looking to keep that action. Do you want a single stage or two-stage trigger?