Thinking About the Dark Side, Have Questions

zog

Lil-Rokslider
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2. What does ramp up time look like? I have good form, and a solid shot sequence. Is this something I could have ready to hunt (25-35 yards) in 3-4 weeks?
Again - this is all very personal experience - for 25 yards or less I'm better with my stickbow. Not more accurate, but a better hunter. Far less stuff, thingies, and gimmicks to worry about and easier to get a shot off., which can often make up for all the time it takes to aim the compound. I started with compound then went to stickbow for the challenge. Then found out I'm actually better off with stickbow at short distance.

After 25 yd though, my stick ability falls apart very fast. Also I usually have more time beyond 25 and thus the benefits of the compound.
 
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OP
Trumpkin The Dwarf
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Again - this is all very personal experience - for 25 yards or less I'm better with my stickbow. Not more accurate, but a better hunter. Far less stuff, thingies, and gimmicks to worry about and easier to get a shot off. I started with compound then went to stickbow for the challenge. Then found out I'm actually better off with stickbow at short distance.

After 25, it falls apart very fast. Also you usually have more time beyond 25 and thus the benefits of the compound.
You're just trying to confuse me now, aren't you! :LOL:

About once a year I go through this same identity crisis, where I really wish I could spend more of my time on other outdoor activities, instead of being consumed by the recurve. Then I get in a groove with my shooting, and that all goes out the window.
 

OXN939

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I'd probably start by looking at a thumb release.

This. I've been shooting compounds for ten years, and last year was the first time I hunted with a thumb release. Game changer. Sounds like you have a solid game plan. Tuning has a little more going on than trad, but I think 3-4 week lead up time to be hunting is solid.
 

zog

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You're just trying to confuse me now, aren't you! :LOL:

About once a year I go through this same identity crisis, where I really wish I could spend more of my time on other outdoor activities, instead of being consumed by the recurve. Then I get in a groove with my shooting, and that all goes out the window.
I am still confused myself.

Ha the time you consume practicing the recurve will only be replaced with time consumed on options and gadgets for the compound. Gearing up the compound is a hobby in itself, especially if you try to save money by buying and selling the gadgets on forums. There are SO many options, upgrades, new ideas, marketing, etc.

If you just go to a decent bow shop, hand them your credit card, and say "please set me up", you'll save a huge amount of time, but you miss the hobby aspect. Compound is so gadget intensive, which for some is exactly the attraction. To each his own . . .
 
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Personally I thought trad made my shooting a compound much better. It will not take you long at all. Get to a good shop to get it set up for you with rest/sight etc. I think wrist caliper releases are probably the easiest, but I’ve only shot the other stuff a couple times. Whisker biscuit is cheap and bomb proof and very accurate with good form (which you should have with shooting trad). Idk about the big bows with your draw, I think Hoyt maxes an xl but not sure. I have a 10+ year old switchback i shoot left handed and 1” shorter draw than my draw with trad (bow shop didn’t help me out in the past and I just haven’t needed to change it). If you could find a slightly used bow that would help cost. There is also stabilizers and back bars etc, probably wouldn’t be necessary for you though if you just plan to use it for this year and keep shots short distance.
 
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Other options to consider: sight with third axis if you are hunting with steep shots. If you keep shots under forty it shouldn’t matter a ton, but may drift your arrow a couple inches one way or the other. Wrist strap, but definitely not necessary either. If you bought new stuff and good gear you would spend 2k without even trying. Like @Billy Goat said I would skip the quiver and use a hip quiver or whatever if you have one. The bow mounted quiver is convenient and adds weight and stability to the bow...but it will catch the wind and cause the bow to can’t a little due to the offset weight also.
 
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robby denning

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I didn’t read all the posts, and I’m sure there’s tons of great advice on here. But I would say jump right in bro, with your experience and a decent pro shop or friend to help you set up a bow, you could literally be hunting in a couple of days at 40 yards. And I wouldn’t be surprised if you couldn’t do 50+. (I only say that because I know you have an archery background, I wouldn’t say that to a new Hunter.)

Definitely shoot a release, and a simple three pin site for 20, 40, 50 or 4 pin 20, 30, 40, 50 with a peep, and you should be good.


Just switch up your yardage a lot so that you get used to counting pins. Don’t just stand back and launch them at 50 yards or you’ll get so used to shooting from that and you’ll screw yourself on something at 30. Don’t ask me how I know.


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ZDR

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Personally I thought trad made my shooting a compound much better. It will not take you long at all. Get to a good shop to get it set up for you with rest/sight etc. I think wrist caliper releases are probably the easiest, but I’ve only shot the other stuff a couple times. Whisker biscuit is cheap and bomb proof and very accurate with good form (which you should have with shooting trad). Idk about the big bows with your draw, I think Hoyt maxes an xl but not sure. I have a 10+ year old switchback i shoot left handed and 1” shorter draw than my draw with trad (bow shop didn’t help me out in the past and I just haven’t needed to change it). If you could find a slightly used bow that would help cost. There is also stabilizers and back bars etc, probably wouldn’t be necessary for you though if you just plan to use it for this year and keep shots short distance.

I agree with this. After shooting trad only for 25+, I transitioned to a compound in December'19 and find it relatively easy to be on par with my friends who shoot compounds only. More importantly I am enjoying it way more than I thought I would. It was really becoming a struggle to find enough time to practice with my longbow but my trad skills really do seem to help with shooting the compound.
 
OP
Trumpkin The Dwarf
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Just switch up your yardage a lot so that you get used to counting pins. Don’t just stand back and launch them at 50 yards or you’ll get so used to shooting from that and you’ll screw yourself on something at 30. Don’t ask me how I know.


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Hahaha! Thanks for the warning Robby!

There's been a ton of good advice so far. Thanks guys! I gotta confess, I can't make up my mind about swapping at all. Hard to let go of the trad bow pride. I'll have to make some decisions later this summer. Part of it will boil down to whether I can justify the purchase with all this Covid crap going on.
 

Brendan

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@Trumpkin The Dwarf - here's a good video that shows the trick @OR Archer was talking about.


You can alter your anchor point starting with a shorter D Loop, and working longer. You could do a lot worse than just emulating the form in the video...

I would try to get an estimate of your draw length first using that method, and good form, then we can recommend some bows for you. Best bet would be to go to a shop that really knows their stuff, but on the other hand, you're better off doing it yourself if you don't have a good shop local.
 

406unltd

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Decent used bow at that length draw 4-600$
Release/handheld 1-200 used for less $
Arrows 1-200
Rest 50-100 unless you want better
Sight 50-100 unless you want better
Quiver 50-150 maybe depending on arrow diameter and manufacture
Too many options out there to know for sure and price check every little thing. If it was me id be looking at about 12-1300$ish. Truth is you could go brow that or even more. It all depends on your price limits and if you want quality or just something to put an animal down. Good luck and heal up
 
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I’m in the same boat as you. After years of shooting a recurve I’ve had to make some changes. I also have a 32” draw and have dropped down to the mid 40’s in draw weight. For animals requiring more draw weight I’ve turned to a compound. Currently shoot a Hoyt xxl 1st year production so it’s got an 8” brace height compared to the newer models. With the loop that’s on it along with the release I’m shooting I’ve got it set at 31.5. For me the biggest problem with most bows was finding a string angle that lined up with my tip of my nose without dropping my head to line up peep. I doubt you’ll have any trouble with the goals you’ve set. I’d look for something used if possible. If you are patient you probably won’t break the bank. Good luck
 

robby denning

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Hahaha! Thanks for the warning Robby!

There's been a ton of good advice so far. Thanks guys! I gotta confess, I can't make up my mind about swapping at all. Hard to let go of the trad bow pride. I'll have to make some decisions later this summer. Part of it will boil down to whether I can justify the purchase with all this Covid crap going on.
there's always a used market for bows. Not sure about 32" bows, but anything sells for the right price
 

zog

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Is it possible with a release, that his draw length is shorter?
When I get proper scapular alignment my hand is back along the side of my face. Can the distance to the corner of the mouth be made up by a longer D-loop? I would almost certainly go for a 50-55# bow if I did this.

Different strokes for different pokes. I discovered a long time ago when I borrowed a shorter draw compound bow that I shoot shorter draws better, despite all advice given to me by great compound shooters and coaches. Shorter draw is much more comfortable for me to hold and release, and comfort = accuracy.

Those same coaches told me that although I might do better with short draw, they were convinced that my improvement would hit a wall if I didn't draw properly all the way to where they said, and force myself to learn it.

Point being - it's worth going to a KNOWLEDGEABLE shop or coach and having them measure your draw so they can advise you before you develop a training scar.
 
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And with compound it is super fun dropping bombs out to 100 yards and actually hitting what your aiming at. I shot me recurve at a bear at 100 the other day out on the 3D range and was super glad to miss only 3ft low.
 

Beendare

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Up to speed?

Once you get your DL and everything set....you will be shooting 6" groups at 40 yds in less then an hour.
You already have the key aspects of archery down. You will be deadly quick.......

My compound is almost 10 years old...and I'm not up on the latest models...many guys here are though and can help.

Thumb release- yes...start on the right foot with back tension style releases.

Best wishes on a fast recovery....I hear that penis reduction surgery takes awhile to recover! Less weight to lug around in the woods....but now the compound will more than make up for that.


________
 

Joe_81

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Is it possible with a release, that his draw length is shorter?
I’d be very interested in the answer to this question. 100% agree about setting up at a pro shop to be sure. I’m personally 30” on a trad and 29-30” on a compound (depending on the bow and the release).
 

Joe_81

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And with compound it is super fun dropping bombs out to 100 yards and actually hitting what your aiming at. I shot me recurve at a bear at 100 the other day out on the 3D range and was super glad to miss only 3ft low.
Plus one on bombing with a compound.
 

Joe_81

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I would never shoot at a deer at those ranges. But it helps nail down form and release. It also shows differences in quality of arrows, straightness, and consistency. It’s like shooting 50 with the stick.
Heck, I don’t take shots at animals more than 40 yards out and even then it has to be a really good, clear shot. My set up is as accurate as I needed that range, so the hundred yard shot is purely just fun target practice for me.
 
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