Tuning question

[Zac]

Wow this is really good to know about whisker's, my dad shoots an old Phantom PSE drop away and I was going to buy him the micro adjustable biscuit.

 

[WannabeHunter]

Well after building a press and tinkering for about 5 hours total, I believe I’m tuned and at a happy place!

My timing measurement is about 1/32” long but I’m not going to tweak/untweak anymore. I’m paper and walk back tuned with bareshafts and field points. Unless my broadheads are just crazy out of line, this will be good enough.

Thanks everyone for your input and help. I will be changing some accessories and re-checking tune as many mentioned.

 

[nphunter]

Well after building a press and tinkering for about 5 hours total, I believe I’m tuned and at a happy place!

My timing measurement is about 1/32” long but I’m not going to tweak/untweak anymore. I’m paper and walk back tuned with bareshafts and field points. Unless my broadheads are just crazy out of line, this will be good enough.

Thanks everyone for your input and help. I will be changing some accessories and re-checking tune as many mentioned.View attachment 98186View attachment 98185View attachment 98187

Looks much better for sure. Cool that the press worked out well. I have used ratchet straps multiple times on single limb bows in the past when having to perform emergency field work.

 

[WannabeHunter]

Looks much better for sure. Cool that the press worked out well. I have used ratchet straps multiple times on single limb bows in the past when having to perform emergency field work.

Tried the ratchet strap the first time “pressing” it and was really not comfortable with it. Glad I built the press. Next is a draw board.

Thinking about removing the grip. Not a big fan of the oversized wood. Not sure it’s applying much torque but could be wrong. I can always put it back on. Thoughts?

Also thinking about a legit front stabilizer and a trophy ridge fix 5 sight.

 

[nphunter]

Tried the ratchet strap the first time “pressing” it and was really not comfortable with it. Glad I built the press. Next is a draw board.

Thinking about removing the grip. Not a big fan of the oversized wood. Not sure it’s applying much torque but could be wrong. I can always put it back on. Thoughts?

Also thinking about a legit front stabilizer and a trophy ridge fix 5 sight.

You're not hurting anything taking off the grip, if you don't like it you can put it back. IMO I would not invest too much into that bow, search the classifieds for used parts and accessories. My reasoning is you can purchase a very nice fully setup bow for just a few hundred dollars on the classifieds either here or on Archery Talk.

 

[WannabeHunter]

You're not hurting anything taking off the grip, if you don't like it you can put it back. IMO I would not invest too much into that bow, search the classifieds for used parts and accessories. My reasoning is you can purchase a very nice fully setup bow for just a few hundred dollars on the classifieds either here or on Archery Talk.

Yeah I was going to try to find used. But any accessories I get can be used in my next upgraded bow. The only real invest I’ve made is strings.

 

[Rob5589]

Nice work! Tuning on most bows isn't all that difficult once you figure out how they function. No more going to a shop and you can make field repairs as needed.
Removing the grip is perfectly fine, I prefer a slim grip myself. I will say that the riser gets damn cold in gloveless hands, just FYI.

 

[DanZ]

10 feet is farther than I would paper tune. See if you get that same tare when you shoot as close as you can get to the target.

WB can "yank your fletching" causing opposite reactions in paper. with a WB you have a clearance issue on every single shot not matter what -- the goal is to make sure your clearance problem is equally distributed around the arrow

I would try going back to what seems like a more standard nock height and shoot a bare shaft through paper and see what kind of tear you get.

 

[WannabeHunter]

10 feet is farther than I would paper tune. See if you get that same tare when you shoot as close as you can get to the target.

WB can "yank your fletching" causing opposite reactions in paper. with a WB you have a clearance issue on every single shot not matter what -- the goal is to make sure your clearance problem is equally distributed around the arrow

I would try going back to what seems like a more standard nock height and shoot a bare shaft through paper and see what kind of tear you get.

I did bareshafts and fletched through paper and got the same tear. Then walk back tuned. Didn't have to adjust anything during the walk back.

I also made some form adjustments. Shooting with both eyes open was the big change. Accuracy is much better now. I'll be doing some other tinkering over the next month or so.

 

[MallardSX2]

I used to shoot a bowdoodle pro lite.

My arrow sat on that thing in the weirdest way imaginable.

It shot great, paper tunes great, and shot with broadheads great.