Used crew cab trucks: $12,000 cash, what to look for?

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Jan 23, 2014
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John Day, OR
First off, I'm not looking for something with all the bells and whistles. I've been driving a 1994 Yota PU for 8 years and it's time to get a crew cab truck for the family. Family of four with dogs gets way too challenging trying to fit everything in for camp trips and road trips. We have a van for my wife and use that for road trips to the big cities and other visits.

This truck will serve as my daily commuter (25 miles round trip everyday), hunting rig, wood hauler, tow a drift boat, maybe tow a camper one of these days, etc. I don't baby my trucks, I use them on rough roads to get to my hunting and wood cutting spots so makes little sense to spend 30-40K on a new one. Plus, I have $12,000 cash so avoiding payments is the main goal.

So full size truck, crew cab, 4x4, and mild towing needs. Decent fuel mileage a plus, but let's face it, 18 mpg hwy is about what I expect. I also love a canopy, so with or without one I'll be getting one regardless.

Here's some trucks I've seen for sale lately:

-2004 F350 Crew cab diesel, canopy, 108K miles. Guys is asking 12K. I've read that 2004 6.0L diesels have some issues.

-2005 F150 crew. Has 80K miles, dealer is asking 13K. Clean truck, short bed. I know the 2004-2008 Fords have issues with spark plugs, injectors, and a few other potential known issues.

-Various F150's, GMC's, Nissan Titans, Dodge's with around 100K miles also for sale in my price range in the 2007-2010 vintage.

So school me on trucks. I'm not well versed in trucks. Not much of a mechanic either, so not looking for a project. Just a reliable truck that I wont feel bad heading to the woods with and using as a daily driver.

What would you look for in my price range? I use Chevy's for work trucks and honestly haven't been overly impressed by them. I tend to prefer a Ford over a Dodge, simply because the 1/2 ton Dodges seem to have small crew cab seating space.

Would you look for an older year truck with low miles, or is something newer, say 2010 with over 100K miles a better option?

Lots of questions, feel free to shoot me some advice. I'm all ears.

Thanks!
 

jmez

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-2005 F150 crew. Has 80K miles, dealer is asking 13K. Clean truck, short bed. I know the 2004-2008 Fords have issues with spark plugs, injectors, and a few other potential known issues.

Insist that the dealer change the plugs prior to you buying the truck. I prefer the F150's. Have owned several Ford's and had good luck with all of them.

I would stay away from Chevy in your price range and year range. Google Chevy 5.3 oil consumption, it is a real issue, ask me how I know. There are some fixes but not sure how well they work.
 
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Stay away from the 6.0 man .
I would buy that f150 and yes have dealer change the plugs. After the have been changed once to the solid core it won't be a problem anymore.
Only other suggestion is try and find a used Tundra.
Super good trucks but may be hard to find cheap.
 

Justin Crossley

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Stay away from the 6.0 man .
I would buy that f150 and yes have dealer change the plugs. After the have been changed once to the solid core it won't be a problem anymore.
Only other suggestion is try and find a used Tundra.
Super good trucks but may be hard to find cheap.

This is good advice imo. I personally like the F150 better but have a few buddies who are very happy with their Tundras as well.

I drive a 2006 F350 with the 6.0L (240k miles on it) and really like it but I spent a lot of money (over $10k) to make sure I wouldn't have problems with the engine.
 
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Agree with trying to find a used Tundra... have an 02 that is rock solid... you may be able to find a mid 2000s for that price point
 

wapitibob

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'99 F350, 7.3


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dotman

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The Nissan Titans are known to be bulletproof with the engine and trans, rear diff is the weak point but cheaper to fix then engine and trans issues. It also has a pretty large amount of interior space. There’s a reason this is all Randy Newberg drives, they are reliable and you’ll get a better deal on one since they are not a Toyota or big 3 brand.

Stay away from the 6.0 Diesel Ford, if you can find a 03-04 dodge diesel I would also consider this but the trans are the weak point.

On their early Tundra’s make sure either the frame has been replaced or that it doesn't have a lot of rust, these were under a national recall but that may be up if the owner didn’t get it fixed.
 
Last edited:
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Are you keeping the Yota? I'd keep it and use that for hunting, and wood hauling. Then you can use the newer one for your daily commutes and family trips.
 
OP
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Are you keeping the Yota? I'd keep it and use that for hunting, and wood hauling. Then you can use the newer one for your daily commutes and family trips.

Naw, that thing has seen better days. Had a guy do a head gasket job about a year ago and it ran alright for a while like that, but now there's a significant loss of power and terrible gas mileage. Getting 16mpg and it's a 4 banger. Other minor issues with it as well, but I'm done with it. A guy that can really wrench on it could make it a lot better, but I don't have the time or skill. I've driven that thing a lot in the last 8 years. Honestly looking forward to not driving it anymore.
 

Clarktar

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Of the options you listed, I would go with the 2005 F150. Get the plugs changed over, and try to talk them down a bit if you have cash.
Doesn't sound like you really need a diesel.
 

2five7

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I drove an 05 f150 for 8 years, great truck. Never let me down, put just over 120k on it as my daily driver, framing work truck, rv puller, and hunting rig. Changed the plugs myself at 100k, broke a couple but not a big deal to get out after watching a few YouTube vids.
 

BlackFlag

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our shop truck is an 03 F150 with the 4.6, about 440k on the odometer. The trick to the plugs is pulling them when still hot, we haven't broken one yet...
 

bivouaclarry

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Whatever you purchase and whoever you purchase from, find a GOOD independent mechanic to perform a Pre Purchase Inspection (PPI). Also ask for a compression and leakdown test and pay the extra money for them. This will be the smartest money you can spend before purchasing a used vehicle. The compression and leakdown numbers will tell you if you are buying a bad motor. If you are buying a diesel, you can send in the oil for analysis. Ask for service records for the vehicle and be suspicious of any vehicle from Texas. (Recent flooding)

A solid PPI is your best negotiating tool on price. It tells you what you are going to have to spend money on in the coming months. Trucks need wearable components at those mileages and a lot of guys trade or sell to avoid paying to have the service done.

FWIW, I would buy a higher milage vehicle with documented service than a lower milage vehicle with undocumented history.
 

RAPTOR

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I'd rather buy a Toyota with 200k on it, than a used F150 with 120k plus. If you know who took care of the Ford, and it has meticulous maintenance records, maybe, but the Toyotas are just beasts. FWIW I have an F150.
 

HookUp

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I drive a 2004 Dodge 2500 cummins 175K original miles on engine and tranny, still going strong.
 

Beendare

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I'm impressed with the 2016 2wd dodge crew cab 5.7L Bighorn i just bought for one of my guys.

He is getting 20.2 mpg with half his driving in stop and go traffic. Fantastic motor. My tundra gets 14.5 mpg. $22,500 [$24k OTD] for that Dodge with 30,000 miles on it- still on factory warranty. I have a guy if you want to come down here to central Ca.
 
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Feb 20, 2015
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Yes the 6.0’s are a no go. Doesn’t the 05’ year range all have the cam phaser problems. I’ve had a few friends that have had Titans and I was really impressed with them. One friend used his to pull trailers everyday for his lawn care business and it seemed a lot stronger than my 98 f150 5.4 that I have now. I’m also looking for a newer truck in this price range and it is tough too find something without a crap ton of miles.


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