Vortex Razor HD LHT Riflescope Review, By Jared Bloomgren

[Fartrell Cluggins]

Appreciate the feedback! This reticle was actually designed by hunters for hunters.

Do you know where those hunters were from and how and where they hunted?

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

I frequent a lot of forums, and they all have their own flavor. This one is Western Hunter flavored. Sniper's Hide is tacticool. 24 hour campfire is highly varied.

Can you give me examples of when you have used subtensions and dialing on the same scope?

I have a lightweight 308 Win topped with a Razor LH (previous version to LHT). This rifle has a 100 yard zero.

When I first get to a spot to glass, I will range various spots around me. This is typically out to 300-400 yards depending on the thickness of the vegetation. I'll adjust the magnification so that the sub-tensions sort of align with known yardage. This way if an animal pops up and is on the move I can take a quick shot just by using the hashmarks. If the animal is within this arc and just milling around, I will then prefer to dial.

I prefer to dial on my shots. However, there are times where the animal is not going to give you an opportunity to range it, dial it, and get the shot off. Yes, you can take a pass and complain about the missed opportunity (been there, done that, and will continue to do that); sometimes this is the right call. If you already know the ballpark range and which hashmark to use, you can speed the entire process up and have a higher likelihood of making the shot.

I guess a simpler explanation is that my default position is to dial but I will use the hashmarks if an animal pops up unexpectedly at a relatively short distance (to me) and does not appear to give me enough time to range, dial, and shoot.

Since I use SFP scopes, personally not a fan of FFP - stupid eyes, relying solely on hashmarks is not going to work. But they can serve a purpose and have worked for me several times. Just another tool to use when it makes sense.

 

[Str8shooter]

So you like the defined clicks on the turrets, but I don’t recall any review on the accuracy of the turret adjustments and their repeatability. That alone suggests this scope is not really meant to be a dial up scope or am I reading into something that is just missing from this review. There are a number of simple tests that can illustrate this.

Right here...Just about every scope review out there leaves out zero retention, tracking or return to zero. Like look at this shiny doodad feature or this *insert techy advertising jargon here" reticle. Features and clarity are nice...tracking, precision and durability are a requirement, and largely leftout of scope reviews...

 

[chutinlead]

I absolutely dial AND use subtensions. The LHT barely meets my minimal requirements for a scope and I want FFP and a tree reticle. In fact, I have an LHT, but would prefer it with an EBR7. I won't buy a scope without subtensions for long range.

Vortex made a small lightweight FFP scope with a tree reticle call the xlr. I have one in 2.5-10 and it has the capped turrets.

Offering a FFP in the LHT would be a pretty sweet addition and feedback that we get quite a bit. I'll definitely let our NPD team know that there is more interest! Thanks for the feedback, my friend!

I would also like to see FFP in a LHT only if you can somehow make the reticle not disappear in the dark timber on low power.

 

[hereinaz]

I frequent a lot of forums, and they all have their own flavor. This one is Western Hunter flavored. Sniper's Hide is tacticool. 24 hour campfire is highly varied.

Can you give me examples of when you have used subtensions and dialing on the same scope?

Dial shoot. Or, hold shoot. Separately I practice using them all the time.

Without shooting, I use the reticle for spotting shots and calling corrections for other shooters/hunters.

Dialing and using the reticle at the same time:

Dial elevation, shoot, see miss measure miss on reticle and hold second shot. Much more accurate.

Dial on dope for MPB zero for quick shots, and without dialing hold for other ranges.

I would be lost without all the mess in my reticle. And, it doesn't bother me.

Admittedly, I fall on the "tacticool" side far more than needed for hunting. I am on an extreme, and it is unnecessary for 99% of hunting. I never say it is "the way to go".

So much is personal preference. Wouldn't want anyone to get any idea I think its anything but that.

I wonder outloud how much Vortex and others are missing your segment of hunters.

I certainly do not recommend tacticool to everyone or think it is the only way. I tell friends and people I meet NOT to get all crazy. In fact, I think it is way more complicated than most need and are willing to practice to become proficient for hunting. I never try to convince my local friends to buy a tree reticle. They barely shoot enough with me over the last couple of years to believe I am not lying about the "tacticool" possibilities. They all have built new guns, handload now, and got better scopes though...

I am still becoming proficient in many ways, still a student of the art of long range. I like to share what a person CAN do, and let them adopt what works for them. I don't care how other people choose to hunt.

I 100% understand why you would want a simple reticle and reliable turrets. Makes sense to me. A guy doesn't need a fancy reticle any more than fancy camo. In some ways, I am like you. I would buy the technical hunting gear without the camo. I like solids to mix and match what I like based on lots of factors that have nothing to do with fashion.

Its a funny thing, I can do more with my "tacticool" scope, rifle, tripod, suppressor etc. than the "Fudds".

But, I also recognize that the "Fudds" are far better hunters, cause I don't have the same experience they do. There is far more to hunting than shooting. It sucks in a lot of ways that my best skill as a hunter is shooting. I am here on Rockslide to learn from the Fudds, lol. They got so much more good knowledge than me. I have been lurking for a long time for hunting.

My best friend and hunting partner is a "Fudd". He aint got time for shooting. He doesn't like it. He doesn't sight his gun in every year. He's had it and the same scope for decades, and he won it at a raffle, lol. That's probably one reason Vortex doesn't think of him.

Its truly different strokes for different folks.

 

[hereinaz]

Vortex made a small lightweight FFP scope with a tree reticle call the xlr. I have one in 2.5-10 and it has the capped turrets.

I would also like to see FFP in a LHT only if you can somehow make the reticle not disappear in the dark timber on low power.

Hmmm, how is the glass on it? I have often considered just a LPVO for hunting, you don't need a lot of magnification for most of it.

Yes, that is one massive drawback for FFP, reticle shrinking. I don't hunt much dark timber, so it isn't an issue I have faced.

 

[hereinaz]

Right here...Just about every scope review out there leaves out zero retention, tracking or return to zero. Like look at this shiny doodad feature or this *insert techy advertising jargon here" reticle. Features and clarity are nice...tracking, precision and durability are a requirement, and largely leftout of scope reviews...

I have seen a few reports it passes repeatability. It is my concern, but I took a chance.

I just got one, and I can tell you it is gonna get worked over once my rifle gets here. I can report my sample of one to you.

 

[chutinlead]

Hmmm, how is the glass on it? I have often considered just a LPVO for hunting, you don't need a lot of magnification for most of it.

Yes, that is one massive drawback for FFP, reticle shrinking. I don't hunt much dark timber, so it isn't an issue I have faced.

The glass seems to be pretty good. I put in on my AR for something lighter. It will probably live on there till I build a super duper lightweight hunting rifle.

The eyebox is very forgiving. Reticle is good. It will make an awesome Saturday afternoon prairie dog rifle. It does lack illumination which is about the only fault I can find with it.

 

[gcronin]

Do you know where those hunters were from and

Vortex made a small lightweight FFP scope with a tree reticle call the xlr. I have one in 2.5-10 and it has the capped turrets.

I would also like to see FFP in a LHT only if you can somehow make the reticle not disappear in the dark timber on low power.

The illumination would help with that. It'll give you that precise aiming point and still allow you to get contrast on darker targets (black bears, moose, etc.) in darker settings.

Thanks for the feedback! We are always looking to hear what Vortex Nation is looking for!

 

[gcronin]

Do you know where those hunters were from and how and where they hunted?

We have hunters working here that hunt just about everywhere. We also rely heavily on feedback we get from other hunters outside of the organization to ensure we are giving our customers exactly what they want. While it may not be for you specifically based on feedback, the LHT is our hottest selling scope specifically designed for hunting.

If you have any questions on the optic, please let me know!

 

[Mtslackcountry]

Mornin' Graham. I have scoured the market for an illuminated reticle hunting scope in the 1K range. This scope appealed to me based on size, weight, magnification and price. I was concerned about the reticle though. I went to Cabelas to see if they had one I could piddle with.

They had one. In as much as I could evaluate the scope inside a store, I gave it a once over. The reticle just didn't work for me. It didn't naturally draw my eye to the center and overall it was a bit too busy. What was the reason for not putting a top "crosshair" in the scope. Not only do hey help draw the eye to center, they also help "bracket" an animal during the first and last possible shooting light.

Have you done the market research to determine how your buyers are actually using their scopes? It seems to me that if you dial, you don't need the reticle subtensions. I consume volumes of information on forums and I have never encountered anyone who both dials and uses subtensions. If those shooters are out there, then you have the scope for them.

This "hunting" scope would have been a win for me if it had a simpler plex style reticle option. There are an abundance of options out there for those who want busier reticles. For us hunters, a simpler reticle on an quality dialing SFP hunting scope is a unicorn.

I would say that most people dial for elevation and hold for wind. In my opinion you need windage marks in a long range scope.

 

[Fartrell Cluggins]

We have hunters working here that hunt just about everywhere. We also rely heavily on feedback we get from other hunters outside of the organization to ensure we are giving our customers exactly what they want. While it may not be for you specifically based on feedback, the LHT is our hottest selling scope specifically designed for hunting.

If you have any questions on the optic, please let me know!

I appreciate yours and the rest of the forum's time. In South Alabama most of the shots we take are in the first or last few minutes of legal shooting light. In fact it's that way all across the southeast. For lack of a better way to describe it, I use the heavy outer plex marks to "bracket" the animal. The thinner center crosshairs often disappear on the animal, so the brackets help me know where the crosshairs are even when I can't see them against the animal. I have never used an illuminated scope, so bracketing may or may not be useful. Many of us in the eastern/southern hunters US fancy the idea of hunting out west one day, and some of us do make occasional treks, so our gear choices are often focused on finding the best compromise for both situations.

Another common shooting scenario is a deer moving through a very small shooting window in the thick woods. Almost everyone I know feels a circle X or more traditional plex reticle centers up more intuitively and quickly.

I don't know what it cost to tool up for additional reticle options, but if you offered that scope with a circle around an illuminated X and then whatever other elevation and windage markings hunters might need, I would have bought it. I'll bet if you surveyed a number of eastern and southern hunters (woods hunters if you will) 90% of them would take what I described over your current reticle.

 

[MT_Wyatt]

Can anyone give a comparison of the glass of the LHT vs a zeiss v4?

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

I asked Cody from Go Hunt this exact question - his response was “splitting hairs” meaning pretty damn close, and not the differentiator to focus on between those specific models.

 

[hereinaz]

I appreciate yours and the rest of the forum's time. In South Alabama most of the shots we take are in the first or last few minutes of legal shooting light. In fact it's that way all across the southeast. For lack of a better way to describe it, I use the heavy outer plex marks to "bracket" the animal. The thinner center crosshairs often disappear on the animal, so the brackets help me know where the crosshairs are even when I can't see them against the animal. I have never used an illuminated scope, so bracketing may or may not be useful. Many of us in the eastern/southern hunters US fancy the idea of hunting out west one day, and some of us do make occasional treks, so our gear choices are often focused on finding the best compromise for both situations.

Another common shooting scenario is a deer moving through a very small shooting window in the thick woods. Almost everyone I know feels a circle X or more traditional plex reticle centers up more intuitively and quickly.

I don't know what it cost to tool up for additional reticle options, but if you offered that scope with a circle around an illuminated X and then whatever other elevation and windage markings hunters might need, I would have bought it. I'll bet if you surveyed a number of eastern and southern hunters (woods hunters if you will) 90% of them would take what I described over your current reticle.

That's a whole different experience than mine. I grew up in Missouri woods, never did anything but squirrel hunt with a .22, so that makes perfect sense the way you described it. The reticle sounds terrible for it, although illuminated reticle might be the trick along with good glass clarity.

My sister is in Tennessee, and I been thinking about going there to hunt. What you said makes me realize I might just put a 1-6 LPVO from my AR on my hunting rifle and take my 16" .243 barrel suppressed, if bottlenecks are allowed, I don't even know... Anything within 100 yards is easier to shoot fast with both eyes open, without taking my eye off the animal. I can shoot and hold over comfortably out to 400 if there were a field or something.

Magnification is over rated, especially in the dark. Do you find having a bigger objective is helpful to brighten the image? Are you seeing them with naked eye or with binos in low light?

 

[Fartrell Cluggins]

That's a whole different experience than mine. I grew up in Missouri woods, never did anything but squirrel hunt with a .22, so that makes perfect sense the way you described it. The reticle sounds terrible for it, although illuminated reticle might be the trick along with good glass clarity.

My sister is in Tennessee, and I been thinking about going there to hunt. What you said makes me realize I might just put a 1-6 LPVO from my AR on my hunting rifle and take my 16" .243 barrel suppressed, if bottlenecks are allowed, I don't even know... Anything within 100 yards is easier to shoot fast with both eyes open, without taking my eye off the animal. I can shoot and hold over comfortably out to 400 if there were a field or something.

Magnification is over rated, especially in the dark. Do you find having a bigger objective is helpful to brighten the image? Are you seeing them with naked eye or with binos in low light?

Bottle necks are allowed in TN and in every southeastern state as far as I know. As far as magnification goes, in the legal shooting hours before sunrise after sunset and while walking, my scope goes on the lowest setting. Yes, a larger objective can make a big difference in the first or last few minutes of legal shooting light. On a clear night a good 40mm will get you through all but the first or last few minutes, depending upon whether you are under a canopy or in an opening. A good quality larger objective will allow you to hunt right up to the first or last legal minute (assuming 30 before sunrise/30 after sunset laws) It may also process enough light to help you discern rack details that a smaller objective wouldn't.

I don't want to put a percentage on it, but I'll just say a significant number of deer are killed in those first or last 5 minutes. As I replay so many of my shots in my mind, the muzzle flash is pronounced! In the evening in the time it takes for me to get my vision back, it's too late to see if the animal is down. I have to break out the flashlight.

 

[hereinaz]

Bottle necks are allowed in TN and in every southeastern state as far as I know. As far as magnification goes, in the legal shooting hours before sunrise after sunset and while walking, my scope goes on the lowest setting. Yes, a larger objective can make a big difference in the first or last few minutes of legal shooting light. On a clear night a good 40mm will get you through all but the first or last few minutes, depending upon whether you are under a canopy or in an opening. A good quality larger objective will allow you to hunt right up to the first or last legal minute (assuming 30 before sunrise/30 after sunset laws) It may also process enough light to help you discern rack details that a smaller objective wouldn't.

I don't want to put a percentage on it, but I'll just say a significant number of deer are killed in those first or last 5 minutes. As I replay so many of my shots in my mind, the muzzle flash is pronounced! In the evening in the time it takes for me to get my vision back, it's too late to see if the animal is down. I have to break out the flashlight.

Good to know. I like the suppressor idea even more to kill the flash. I definitely notice the difference in good glass in twilight out west glassing hundreds of yards. Sounds like its just as important to you all.

Yeah, a lot of animals get located at first/last light everywhere.

All this discussion makes me wonder if the single red dot isn't just what I would need for dark timber? The reticle pretty well disappears in low light. Being a small pinpoint of light, seems it would work not to block anything like a lighted circle or stadis would.

I am going to have to take the scope out in rhe park and play with it.

 

[crosey5]

My hunting experience is mostly in archery however I am working on setting up a long range rifle. If I pair this scope with a .300 WIN MAG, what kind of distances can I expect to be able to shoot at ?

 

[hereinaz]

My hunting experience is mostly in archery however I am working on setting up a long range rifle. If I pair this scope with a .300 WIN MAG, what kind of distances can I expect to be able to shoot at ?

I don't know how far you can shoot. Might not be more than 50 yards... just kidding.

You can hunt as far as you can practically shoot. Glass and magnification on it can shoot a mile or more with a 20 moa base on a 300 wm. Only question I have is reliability of the turret to dial. I will be giving it a go soon.

You will be the limiting factor. Get some hands on training. I have kids and new shooters hitting steel at 1000 yards with my rifle in 3 shots or less. Helped a kid who could shoot harvest at 730 yards off a tripod with my rifle.

If you were in AZ I would teach you long range if you taught me some archery.

 

[prm]

...In fact, I think it is way more complicated than most need and are willing to practice to become proficient for hunting....

There is the key point for most of the shooting discussions. You can in fact be more capable with some features, IF you can use them correctly when it counts.

 

[Kingmancustoms]

I have a couple of these and only complaint is how tight the power ring is. I would prefer 20 MOA per rev but not a deal breaker. For sub 20 oz...hard to beat.