Who knows Win mod 70's?

[Billy Goat]

I have a 7wsm from New Haven. Probably built around 03-05. Not certain. The safety has become stuck on fire. I got it recently and it worked fine at first. Safety was just a little stuff but wasn't bad. It was functioning in a way that the firing pin dropped forward just a little when you put it on fire. Now it drops far enough forward that the safety can't be re-engaged. I can remove the bolt, manually push back on the firing pin catch and reset the safety. I assumed it was an issue with the trigger sear engaging the firing pin catch. I can't figure out how to adjust it. There is a little bit of travel in the trigger to the sear. ( Action out of the stock looking at the trigger assembly itself this is the hook on the trigger to the rocker bar) If this could get tightened up I think it would fix it. My thought is the catch on the firing pin should catch the trigger sear when the bolt closes. As it is now the firing pin is held by the safety. Once the safety is released the pin slides forward and then catches the trigger sear.

Everything seems really simple with the trigger and bolt interface, just too much gap. So my question is what is the fix? I could grind on the firing pin to open up the channel that the safety rolls in, but that seems like a bad idea. Would an aftermarket trigger have enough adjustment to fix this? Do I need a different trigger sear? Also I'm probably calling some of the components by incorrect words, but the way I'm seeing it there are 3 components here at play. The trigger, the firing pin and the catch on the bottom of it, and the rocker bar that goes between them, I'm calling that the trigger sear.

Any ideas? I have disassembled the bolt. Nothing looked out of place except the wear on the firing pin notch for the safety. This is wear I could open it up a little. But don't feel like that's the appropriate thing to do.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[doverpack12]

If you know how to disassemble the bolt and have cleaned everything then I would take it to a gunsmith or call Winchester. I believe there was an issue but I thought it was a little older model maybe 200-2001. My mom has a 30-06 that did something similar and would also hang fire. My 30-06 from your date range is great. Macarbo trigger spring job and mine is now a consistent 1 lb trigger.

 

[Billy Goat]

I guess I'll give Winchester a call.

Bolt has been disassembled other than to drop the safety out. Pulled and cleaned the firing pin and cleaned inside the bolt body while I had it apart.

 

[Wrench]

Can you get a picture of the trigger when the bolt is in the condition you describe? The sear engagement is pretty strait forward on these. If you have the bolt cocked on middle safe will it catch the sear? Can you hit the sear and bolt contact points with a sharpie and see how much engagement you have?

Lastly, is the sear edge sharp or rounded off?

The m70 trigger can be AWESOME when it's all done right.

 

[452b264]

I would find a gunsmith who has a reputation for M 70 trigger jobs. Phoenix Custom Rifles and ask for Brad he is an excellent gunsmith.

 

[spin]

You need a gunsmith. I believe it has to do with the bolt shroud and how the firing pin is cocked. It requires filing to time correctly. If I recall, if you shorten too much you are replacing parts. It’s part of the trigger job for a good gunsmith. Lee Christianson(?) is a very well regarded Model 70 smith and very reasonably priced. However, he’s backed up. I spoke with him a month ago and he told me to call back around the holidays.

I’ve had one done before and it’s a world of difference and the safety operates much more smoothly and quietly. I’ve had no issues disengaging a safety with deer underneath me.

 

[spin]

If you look up Model 70 trigger job by I believe the gunsmithing guild, it goes over a brief explanation of what you are experiencing.

 

[Billy Goat]

Can you get a picture of the trigger when the bolt is in the condition you describe? The sear engagement is pretty strait forward on these. If you have the bolt cocked on middle safe will it catch the sear? Can you hit the sear and bolt contact points with a sharpie and see how much engagement you have?

Lastly, is the sear edge sharp or rounded off?

The m70 trigger can be AWESOME when it's all done right.

I'll get a picture of it later. It's not until you go to fire that it engages the sear. The safety is holding the firing pin back while on safe and bolt manipulation condition.

I like the trigger setup. Seems really straight forward. Just something is off and I'm wondering if someone tried to work it over and screwed something up.

 

[16Bore]

PM “Redneck” at 24 Hour Campfire. He’s a M70 guru and then some....

 

[Capt_Craig]

Another vote for “Redneck” aka Lee Christianson in WI, he’s the guy to go to for M70 issues.

 

[Cahunter805]

Very common problem especially if a trigger job or adjustment was done. It’s very bad some times with a timney replacement.
If you are not satisfied with the trigger pull and weight currently I’d suggest what the others are saying. Contact Redneck aka Lee and have him do a trigger job and fix the saftey at the same time.

 

[Wapiti1]

If it worked correctly, when you put the safety on either the center or full back positions, the cocking piece should be moved back about 0.005-0.010". This blocks the cocking piece from moving, and moves it off the trigger sear.

Adjustment of the safety is done by fitting the cocking piece. You stone or mill the bevel at the front edge where the safety engages it, and the sear engagement on the bottom is cut back until the above clearance is achieved when the safety is engaged. Usually, just cleaning up the bevel does the trick, and no work is done to the sear engagement.

If the cocking piece is too far forward in the fire position, the safety hits the side of it and you can't cam the cocking piece back. It needs to contact the bevel in order to cam it back.

You can do the work at home with needle files and small fine cut stones.

Jeremy

 

[Billy Goat]

If it worked correctly, when you put the safety on either the center or full back positions, the cocking piece should be moved back about 0.005-0.010". This blocks the cocking piece from moving, and moves it off the trigger sear.

Adjustment of the safety is done by fitting the cocking piece. You stone or mill the bevel at the front edge where the safety engages it, and the sear engagement on the bottom is cut back until the above clearance is achieved when the safety is engaged. Usually, just cleaning up the bevel does the trick, and no work is done to the sear engagement.

If the cocking piece is too far forward in the fire position, the safety hits the side of it and you can't cam the cocking piece back. It needs to contact the bevel in order to cam it back.

You can do the work at home with needle files and small fine cut stones.

Jeremy

This is what I was seeing in my head. But was hesitant to remove material anywhere until I knew it was the correct thing to do. Trigger is good the way it is. Breaks between 2.75- 3.25 #. Mostly right under 3, but in pulling a dozen times sometimes one is a little higher or lower. I'm happy enough with that for a factory trigger. I'll polish things a little and get the safety back in time. Good to know it is supposed to engage the pin and remove it slightly off the trigger sear. I guess if it didn't you could potentially pull the trigger while on safe, then place on fire and the gun goes off. That sounds familiar with what another manufacturer has issue with.

Thanks for all the input.