Cold feet mountain hunting: 200-400g insulation?

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

Learning curve on keeping my feet happy in life rather than just beating them down. Regular dry sock changes massively reduced the wear and tear on my feet this year so that box is checked off. With the return of COLD rifle seasons here in CO though I need to address cold feet. Currently running lowa crevedale uninsulated which do pretty well above 30f but mornings were a struggle/painful with them this year when it was down at 10f. Part of my intention is to make sure the Ti stove gets fired up more in the really cold stuff in the future to ensure boots are dried at night and thawed/warmed in the morning. Putting on frozen boots I found it to be an uphill battle trying to warm them up usually leaving me with painfully cold feet glassing. I run a sock liner and full cushion socks but didn't run expedition weight socks.

So are the 200-400g insulated boots the ticket for a bit of warmth in this case while also still being a rugged/supportive mountain boot? Does/can the insulation get wet and freeze at night just making it a greater thermal mass to try and warm up with my foot? Would a slightly larger boot and expedition weight socks be a better route as I can more easily dry out socks?

 

[Poser]

This such a delicate balance as insulated boots get heavy and potentially hot quickly. Have you tried any insulated insoles first? In another thread, Someone mentioned sheepskin insoles working well for warmth.


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[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

No, currently running superfeet orange. I actually think the top/sides are of more concern for me.

 

[Poser]

You could look at some of the Schnees model boots with the wool inserts. They are pricey, but you can take the wool insert out each night and dry them out by the stove.


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[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I could be naive but I have concerns about PAC boots for mountain hunting. They good for climbing/dropping steep continuous slopes, side hilling, rocks, etc? Seems like locking in a heel climbing and good support side hilling without your foot rotating in the boot?

 

[Poser]

I could be naive but I have concerns about PAC boots for mountain hunting. They good for climbing/dropping steep continuous slopes, side hilling, rocks, etc? Seems like locking in a heel climbing and good support side hilling without your foot rotating in the boot?

I don't know. I have a pair of them, but they are more casual, around town snow boots with a Velcro seal instead laces. I have a pair of Koflach plastic mountaineering boots which perform well, but overkill for below treeline. For multiday trips, I'd want removable inserts of some type, be it wool, neoprene etc else you'll never get them dried out should they get wet. My snowboard boots have neoprene inserts and my feet never get cold in them despite never wearing more than midweight socks, but they are always wet with perspiration after a day of riding. The other alternative would be to go with light insulation (200g) and go up a half size to allow for more layering. The downside to this might be the fact that you have to lace them up tighter to compensate, further limiting blood flow to your feet. Treestand hunters often untie and loosen their laces once settled in a tree to help with circulation for long, cold sits. This is certainly a tradeoff when wanting a performance boot. I think you'll have to compromise in some department.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I figured trying to dry a 200-400g boot might be the compromise. I have some plastics as well but wouldn't want to mountain hunt in them. I want something I can pound in but can fight back a couple hours of glassing in the COLD.

 

[Poser]

Have you thought about getting some down over boots for glassing?


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[marktole]

I got a pair of Danner Powderhorn boots with 400 grams of thinsulate just before 1st rifle. They were just a tad much for 1st as temps were still hitting the mid 50's consistently where I'm at. Although for 3rd and 4th I think they'll be perfect as there is snow and lower temps in the forecast. I haven't had a problem with the thinsulate getting sweaty and freezing overnight like you mentioned above either. Hope that helps!

 

[oldillini]

ArcticShield makes "booties" that I use during long Midwest whitetail sits. They are kind of bulky but not too heavy. Works pretty good. Can add a handwarmer for extra benefit.

Another option (have not tried yet) would be to use a woobie (military poncho liner). This would also offer some warmth to legs if needed. A little bulky too, but might have additional benefit in camp as well.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I have thought of overboots but didn't know if they would actually be effective when put over the outside of boots at 10f, seems like it would take a long time for body heat to warm the boot shell to trap heat in the bootie. Even when we started moving after first glassing it would take a long time till my feet were fully warmed. I need some more warth in the boot itself.

 

[Ross]

Always a fine balance between too much weight and solid support and enough warmth. The kenetrek 400 gram and the new schnees 600 gram may be a good option. When need be I will slip in some hand warmers or use the sole hot packs as I need the lateral support and stiff sole for my old feet A pack boot just won't cut it for me on the mountain.

 

[mfllood3800]

Robby D did a short vid on this very thing. He mentioned no matter how good your boots are, when it is cold, your feet will get closed while glassing in those sub zero weather. The vid was to bring attention to foot warmers.
Seems most hunters don't want to tap out and get these, not sure why.

I will be utilizing technology any way I can to keep me out longer. If I am going to be out longer, I might as well be more comfortable doing it.

Perhaps he can chime in a post up his link.

like many here, I have tried all the good boots, all the insl levels, yet when glassing- cold.
After hiking and sitting- cold
Changing socks - cold

I use those hand warmers in my gloves and my feet. Sometimes they just aren't enough in the boot, while in the gloves they are enough to take off that edge,

I will be investing in feet warmers for sure.
When I was 19 I used my first air of electric socks. It made a difference for half the day- battery life 35 years ago wasn't as stout as lithium is today.

In certain climates/environments a good sock, boot and insole, can make the difference.
But in others nothing will work other than artificial heat.

 

[Lawnboi]

Ever think of bringing chem warmers? For anything longer than a couple hours in temps like that I'm breaking out toe warmers and sticking them to my socks. Even if I'm wearing pac boots or thick neoprene mucks.

Boot blankets never worked for me.

 

[Lawnboi]

And a tip on toe warmers. Once you get to your spot break open the package, they will be warm by the time your feet start to chill. Peel off the boots and stick the warmers to your sock.

Don't forget to take them out before moving or your feet will be soaked.

 

[pods8 (Rugged Stitching)]

I tried warmers one day (friend had some) but by the time I tossed them in my feet were in pain and I can't say I ever really felt them warm things up (also don't know if they got enough air to activate well, I was in a hurry and didn't let them warm in my hands to verify first).

Yeah I know sitting and glassing feet will chill out and also drying (and ideally prewarming my boots in the morning) will help the most, I just didn't know if any of the 200, 400, 600gr or thicker socks would create a warmer environment so instead of feet in pain they are just cold...

Basically on the coldest mornings when I put on my boots and walked 1/2mi to a glassing point my feet never warmed up the boots and were actually already cold when I stopped not to be warm again until sun was up and we walked a few miles. That is why I figured more sock or more insulation HAS to be an improvement over uninsulated with just a "full cushion" sock in that 10F stuff.

 

[Poser]

I experimented with toe warmers when I used to treestand hunt. I never felt like they got enough oxygen to really work well inside of boots and generally left much to be desired in terms of function. I have a whole pile of hand and foot warmers that are probably close to 10 years old by now because I stopped using them. They were annoying to carry around, the wrappers are noisy and when they are used up, your stuck hauling useless weight around. A pair of merino liners, First Lite grizzly gloves and the pockets of a down jacket are sufficient for the hands. Feet are tougher to deal with, especially in the snow and especially with the stop and go demands of hunting.


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[Ridge Ghost]

I wore my Kenetrek pacs out elk hunting yesterday. My feet were plenty warm, but I hate the lack of support. We put on a lot of miles and my heel slipped and rubbed on all steep climbs. I'll be looking for another solution next year.

 

[Stid2677]

Few lessons I have learned over the years,, make sure my boots are not too tight. I have went up a complete size for mountain hunts. I use insoles and socks to make up the volume difference. Adding heat pads to already tight boots will only make your feet colder. I use a Z pad cut into 3 pieces, I use one to sit on to insulate my backside and another to insulate my feet from the ground wicking cold.

 

[gelton]

What Stid said - boots cant be too tight. Also take a look at primaloft instead of thinsulate. They claim about twice the warmth of thinsulate. I have Lowa mountain hunters with 150 grams of primaloft and my feet are rarely cold. However, one year dealing with almost two feet of snow and no stove, my boots froze every night and I was miserable putting my feet in them each morning.