6x45

[Moose83]

That's about it, after the initial bore cleaning to a sterile condition I never touch the cleaning rod again. Though I may clean a chamber if it really needs it.
Moly is a lubricant and you will see a pressure / velocity drop, so you will add powder till you reach your operating velocity window. I don't Hot Rod my stuff anymore I loaded a half a grain over the load I settled on and didn't see any pressure or velocity issues, shut her down and went into mass production mode...

Would you say that Moly reduces the initial pressure spike caused by your loads being right at the lands? If you had to run naked bullets would you back them off the lands some and drop a couple of grains and start there? Also.. have you ever tried leverevolution in this cartridge? Sorry for all the questions .... I'm learning new stuff here. Thanks!

 

[ridgeline]

Would you say that Moly reduces the initial pressure spike caused by your loads being right at the lands? If you had to run naked bullets would you back them off the lands some and drop a couple of grains and start there? Also.. have you ever tried leverevolution in this cartridge? Sorry for all the questions .... I'm learning new stuff here. Thanks!

Ok. With reloading, never come out swinging for the fence on the first pitch ... grin. I always start in the Lands as that is where I want to stay, "providing the bullet of intent will fit mag box latitude" there is no pressure "spike" because I made sure to start with a modest charge weight regardless whether it be a naked bullet or Moly slicked and creep charge weight along in accords !

Now. Laying down Moly, depending on the barrels bore condition it may take six or more rounds to slick up and stabilize. If shooting at paper and in conjunction with a chrono you will know it has because velocity becomes way consistent and groups will tighten up dramatically, from there it's work up to a velocity number that lines up with your barrel length. IE: Too high of a velocity is high pressure and low velocity is low pressure.

Also, all my virgin brass is positive head spaced with a false shoulder to my chamber ( I do NOT want brass rattling in my chamber) so I never get a false read on "traditional" pressure signs at the case head., along with a host of benefits for your brass and precision. In conjunction with a powder that grants a high load density schit will shoot into knots. I've shot a LOT so I tend to circumvent some of the procedure above and cut to the chase, that meaning no chrono or shooting at paper in those initial stages of the load. Think Bangity bang bang bang. grin.

I do have Lever' and it will work like a charm, but I have it slated for a 6ARC I'm waiting on.

 

[ridgeline]

Should add pics! though not 6x45 obviously. This is my 264 Creed'. Strip the bolt striker assembly "for a more deft feel" and sharpie mark a bullet...



Again not 6x45 ! Sizing a piece of Sako 30-06 brass down, leaving a false shoulder for crush fit in my 280 Ackley chamber "NO rattle rattle". grin.

 

[ridgeline]

Now both in conjunction. A bullet kissing lands and a shoulder kissing a chamber.

 

[Moose83]

Ok. With reloading, never come out swinging for the fence on the first pitch ... grin. I always start in the Lands as that is where I want to stay, "providing the bullet of intent will fit mag box latitude" there is no pressure "spike" because I made sure to start with a modest charge weight regardless whether it be a naked bullet or Moly slicked and creep charge weight along in accords !

Now. Laying down Moly, depending on the barrels bore condition it may take six or more rounds to slick up and stabilize. If shooting at paper and in conjunction with a chrono you will know it has because velocity becomes way consistent and groups will tighten up dramatically, from there it's work up to a velocity number that lines up with your barrel length. IE: Too high of a velocity is high pressure and low velocity is low pressure.

Also, all my virgin brass is positive head spaced with a false shoulder to my chamber ( I do NOT want brass rattling in my chamber) so I never get a false read on "traditional" pressure signs at the case head., along with a host of benefits for your brass and precision. In conjunction with a powder that grants a high load density schit will shoot into knots. I've shot a LOT so I tend to circumvent some of the procedure above and cut to the chase, that meaning no chrono or shooting at paper in those initial stages of the load. Think Bangity bang bang bang. grin.

I do have Lever' and it will work like a charm, but I have it slated for a 6ARC I'm waiting on.

Cool.. this all makes a lot of sense. Do you False shoulder all your virgin brass? Or is this only for wildcats and non factory chambers?

 

[83cj-7]

Loved mine for my little sister for a 300 yard deer and antelope rifle. The 87gr VMax at 2775 was an absolute pole axe. That gun taught me how little energy matters. It was a 20 inch benchmark barrel on a tikka t3x and was by far the most accurate rifle I’ve ever shot. 10 shot groups were consistently under or at an inch.

I will second this! The 6x45 and the 87 Vmax taught me a lot about what it truly takes to achieve lethality on a deer. I’ve built so many 6x45s on so many platforms and I’ve not been disappointed in a single one. I currently have a 6x45ai (6 TCU) and a plain jane 6x45. My go to bullet is always the 87 V-max but I am also fond of the Nosler 70 grain BTV. Both are absolute deer hammers.

Both of these were shot with a Fixed 6x on my Kimber Montana with two different powders.

 

[Timberline001]

I will second this! The 6x45 and the 87 Vmax taught me a lot about what it truly takes to achieve lethality on a deer. I’ve built so many 6x45s on so many platforms and I’ve not been disappointed in a single one. I currently have a 6x45ai (6 TCU) and a plain jane 6x45. My go to bullet is always the 87 V-max but I am also fond of the Nosler 70 grain BTV. Both are absolute deer hammers.

Both of these were shot with a Fixed 6x on my Kimber Montana with two different powders.

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You’re the one that put me onto the 87s and you weren’t kidding. They flat out kill.

 

[83cj-7]

Right on!

 

[ridgeline]

Cool.. this all makes a lot of sense. Do you False shoulder all your virgin brass? Or is this only for wildcats and non factory chambers?

First thing to do with ANY chamber and given lot of brass is to establish where you are at with head space control. That will determine your next move, with the bolt stripped down it is very easy to FEEL whether the brass has resistance against the bolt face or not. If it does that's good. If it don't, you can neck it up then size back down to a crush fit. Often times I will start with the parent case of a larger bore diameter, example in the previous pic 30-06 to 280 or 308 to 7-08, 260, ,243 etc etc.

An analogy would be similar to an engine not liking it's pistons and rings rattling in the bore as they are both pressure vessels wanting to achieve combustion efficiently.

 

[robtattoo]

Man, I wish I could find a decent, lightweight 6x45 AR barrel. It seems like they just don't exist anymore & I can't warrant spending custom money.

 

[30338]

After I built mine, I went on a blackpowder and archery spree. The 87 vmax is interesting to me. I love bullet performance at modest impact performance have always have routinely boring performance from all makes of Berger vld. But I bet that 87 would do well. It may be a bit softer than my current choices. I need to grab some rifle tags again soon.