Broadhead tuning & shooting form question

Jmez, you are correct. I don't have a bow press. Do you know what the centershot measurement for a Bear bow is? I can't seem to find it anywhere, if I could get the measurement, I'll verify it. I watched the bow tech adjust the centershot on the rest with a laser alignment tool with a mocked arrow. The rest was perfectly centered and the laser aligned with both the string and the entire length of the arrow.

Jasin Snyder, The bow tech also shot the bow with a field point and has a very similar tear to mine. Note that the really bad tear in my picture was shot with a broadhead.

The tech also tried to adjust my rest to get the tear out. We moved it ALL the way to the left until the arrow was at a crazy outward angle from the rest and the tear got better, but wasn't fixed.

I talked to Gold Tip today and they said that my arrow spine was fine.

I'm kind of at a loss. Nobody in my area seems to know what cam lean is or they just don't want to press the bow and mess with the yolks to tset the theory.
 
I don't think so. I don't have a problem with a straight arm, I think it is a pretty repeatable way to shoot.

thanks for the response. nothing but respect for your answers.

i like a slightly bent arm..give me clearance insurance for the jacket i'm sure to be wearing someday. but i bet a straight arm is potentially more repeatable.
 
If the shop tech got the same tear you did, I can't figure out why he didn't just yoke tune it right then.

It kind of shocked me too. The other tech said that since my field points were flying straight into the arget, I should be good to go....
 
It should be listed in the owners manual somewhere.

You need to yoke tune. You can do this at home with a screw driver. Darrin Cooper put a video up on here and it is on YouTube as well on how to tune without a press.


Boom, I'm far from a form guru but the most important thing is that whatever you are doing is repeatable.
 
My advice is to buy a bow press, like an EZ Green from last chance archery, and build a bench. This stuff can be done pretty easily with a little help from the interweb, especially if you are a fellow OCDer like myself. I had a similar severe right tear issue with my nitrum and it boiled down to cam lean, which I fixed by yolk tuning with the above press, AND a form issue, which in my case was too much riser pressure with my left arm and inconsistent back tension applied with my right arm/back. I could actually feel the bow jumping left and right from the torque in my hand. When you mentioned punching the trigger it made me think form was playing a role in your case too. Relaxing and letting the bow shoot itself has made a huge difference for me.

Another bit of unsolicited advice is to consider a thumb release (I shoot a Carter Too Simple) which allows me to get the surprise shot I eluded to above. It has made an incredible difference in my shooting consistency and accuracy and totally cured a case severe target panic. And even after almost 25 years of hunting with wrist releases I already much prefer the thumb release and wish I had switched years ago.
 
That paper tear is far too large to be yoke tuned. Like we had spoken about, there is either a timing issue with the ACE or a cam timing issue.

I'm not sure that cam timing would make a horizontal tear like that. But a bow with any lateral nock travel caused by cam lean or otherwise could easily cause a tear like that. Add in a rest that is not perfectly aligned and it could get pretty crazy tears.
 
I'm not sure that cam timing would make a horizontal tear like that. But a bow with any lateral nock travel caused by cam lean or otherwise could easily cause a tear like that. Add in a rest that is not perfectly aligned and it could get pretty crazy tears.

Can timing can absolutely cause lateral tears. I see it in an almost daily basis. Excessive cam lean could cause a tear like this but it would need to be an extreme lean and it's obvious from the OP's pictures that this isn't the case. The shop that put the rest on ran lasers for center shot and after talking with the OP on the phone yesterday it's widely apparent that the center is within the realm of acceptability.
 
All great info so far guys!

BackcountryMT, I checked my rest and it only has one set of arrows where the cord is attached to the rest. These arrows match up at full draw, so correct me if I'm wrong, but the rest appears to be timed correctly.

Can you guys tell from the picture of my draw from behind from my earlier post if there is any noticeable cam lean at full draw, or should I post up a closer picture??
 
All great info so far guys!

BackcountryMT, I checked my rest and it only has one set of arrows where the cord is attached to the rest. These arrows match up at full draw, so correct me if I'm wrong, but the rest appears to be timed correctly.

Can you guys tell from the picture of my draw from behind from my earlier post if there is any noticeable cam lean at full draw, or should I post up a closer picture??

Are the arrows on the rest touching tips (no homo) exactly at the full draw point?
 
Broadhead tuning & shooting form question

I don't see any cam lean, but the bow is torqued to the left. Shortening the draw length should help that too.
 
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Are the arrows on the rest touching tips (no homo) exactly at the full draw point?

LOL!!! I needed that this morning. I'm pretty sure the arrows are touching tips, but I'll double check.

I'm wondering about the top cam in that picture. I still need to get around to adjusting my draw length and will shoot again to see if the grouts imorove. I'm extremely confident that the centershot on the bow is setup properly, so it should boil down to a timing issue, cam lean, arrow rest timing, or a form issue still.
 
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