Esse Knives

adamm88

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Sep 6, 2016
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Pennsylvania
Iv owned a candiru, izula, izula 2, 3(3 different ones), 4, 5, 6 and junglas, hest(owned two different ones)iv sold them all except the for one esee 3 which is striped and has tkc handles on it. Overall there heat treat of 1095 is above average, all the knives i kept long term i striped the coating off of them, but the one complaint is for a flat ground knife they are THICK. I perfer thinner knives but thats just me.


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CLICKBANGBANG

Lil-Rokslider
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Jun 23, 2016
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I have a few ESEE knives. My brother had a few in a Mexico jungle. They rusted a little, but they are user knives. If you want something really pretty, for sure buy something else. I really like the 1095. Really easy to sharpen. I've ran three of them on the Rockwell machine and they all came out to the stated hardness. They are great for bush crafting and the big ones are cool for chopping the hell out of something. The one I use the most, is a pink Izzy that has the sheath screwed to the back porch. I use it outside and for general work quite a bit. The glass breakers work good too. I've smashed a few windows out of cars that were being scrapped with the -3 and the -5.

The best upgrade for the knives are some The Knife Connection scales. Check them out.
 

Trial153

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Oct 28, 2014
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NY
I have a couple izulas that I wrapped with para cord for handles ...it a nice little light weight beater. Takes an edge decent and hold it's well enough. I like 1095 as a non stainless option. I had a I2 with scales and honestly don't see it as any better then the standard handle on the original. One thing I would suggest on either one you choose is getting some after market krydex for it at the plastic sheaths they come with aren't much...
 
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Small derailment - for you guys using 550 cord wrapped handles, does that stuff get bloody, gooey etc. when you process animals? My Izula is wrapped. I used it own a deer and the cordage was pretty funky afterward.
 
OP
B
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Small derailment - for you guys using 550 cord wrapped handles, does that stuff get bloody, gooey etc. when you process animals? My Izula is wrapped. I used it own a deer and the cordage was pretty funky afterward.

I'm curious too, I have one of the tyto scalpel blade knife that is wrapped but haven't used it yet...I figured a good rinse and a lot of time out in the open air drying out would help.
 
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The rust is caused by the steel being crappy. So corrosion resistence is a factor of the steel. So I would say steel is not so good.
I could care less how easy a knife is to sharpen if it does not get dull in the first place. Corrosion causes dulling.

You either don't understand the properties of steel, or the reason they chose that steel in particular. These guys are not idiots, and they made a specific choice in steel to suit exactly what they wanted, it's the entire reason they coat the knives as well.




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Pierrebuiltknives

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You obviously don't understand the properties of steel, or the reason they chose that steel in particular. These guys are not idiots, and they made a specific choice in steel to suit exactly what they wanted, it's the entire reason they coat the knives as well.




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1095 is a extremly cheap steel. It is easy to heat treat, it rust easy as shit, easy to sharpen. All things that make a cheap affordable knife. None of which necessarily make a good knife. A place I buy knife steel to make knives stopped carring it due to low quality. I am not a total dill weed but if you talk to any knowledgable knife maker or metallurgist they can explain the same exact thing.

As stated I like the designs. But I think when and if they make the same knifes with a higher end steel you will see people who have moved on to higher end knives possible buy a esee. I have owned a couple.

Following steels I have owned....and actually used. CPM3V (four different heat treats all acted different), cpm4v, m390, s30v, s35vn, 01, 154cm, aebl, zfinit, zwear, 1095, 1095 with a custom makers heat treat, mora carbon, mora stainless and the back of the pack are the commercial 1095 and mora stainless. All I am trying to say is IMO and many other knife people 1095 is like a 1992 compound bow.
 
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I'm curious too, I have one of the tyto scalpel blade knife that is wrapped but haven't used it yet...I figured a good rinse and a lot of time out in the open air drying out would help.
My guess is just re-wrap each time it is bloody

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More like a recurve... old tech that serves a purpose, and does it well, without all the bells and whistles... its simple. I have and have used: cpm3v, s35vn, s30v, 154cm, O1, A2, D2, 1095, all flavors of Moras, sandvik, 440C, 420HC, Elmax, and several others im sure i missed... and for a dedicated woods/survival style blade, 1095 is at the top of my preference list... along with 3v and A2.

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SHTF

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US made knife for $50 with a bombproof warranty. not much bad you can say about them. skeletonized handles can get uncomfortable if you've got to use them for an extended period of time but they sure clean up easy.

They make after market scales you can put on the Izula and Izula 2.

I've used ESEE knives the past 5 years have owned or own now most models they are a great knife and sharpen easy in the field. Will agree just because a knife is prone to rust doesn't make it crappy all. Just means you need to take care of it. ESEE steel is decent not the best by any means but it's decent and fits its intended purpose. Jeff and Mike are great guys and stand behind they knives 100%.


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Pierrebuiltknives

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More like a recurve... old tech that serves a purpose, and does it well, without all the bells and whistles... its simple. I have and have used: cpm3v, s35vn, s30v, 154cm, O1, A2, D2, 1095, all flavors of Moras, sandvik, 440C, 420HC, Elmax, and several others im sure i missed... and for a dedicated woods/survival style blade, 1095 is at the top of my preference list... along with 3v and A2.

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So if you had 3 exact knives and could only take one for a wood situation you would take the 1095 version?
 
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So if you had 3 exact knives and could only take one for a wood situation you would take the 1095 version?
Depends on my mood or goal... bushcrafting, hunting etc...
I do sometimes yes. Sometimes I take a bark river or a custom. But my ESEEs get plenty of woods time, and if i knew i would be in a scenario where i would be out for weeks, i would likely pick a 1095 steel for ease of field maintenance. I care more about handle ergos and blade profile then steel. All steels will dull and all will corrode so i usually base my decision for the day on ergos, sheath, profile etc... what can i say, im a knife nut :)

To directly answer your question of 3 identical blades... most of the time i would pick 3v. But that doesn't make the others "Crappy". In a "bushcraft" event, i would most likely pick 1095 for maintenance.

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1095 is a extremly cheap steel. It is easy to heat treat, it rust easy as shit, easy to sharpen. All things that make a cheap affordable knife. None of which necessarily make a good knife. A place I buy knife steel to make knives stopped carring it due to low quality. I am not a total dill weed but if you talk to any knowledgable knife maker or metallurgist they can explain the same exact thing.

As stated I like the designs. But I think when and if they make the same knifes with a higher end steel you will see people who have moved on to higher end knives possible buy a esee. I have owned a couple.

Following steels I have owned....and actually used. CPM3V (four different heat treats all acted different), cpm4v, m390, s30v, s35vn, 01, 154cm, aebl, zfinit, zwear, 1095, 1095 with a custom makers heat treat, mora carbon, mora stainless and the back of the pack are the commercial 1095 and mora stainless. All I am trying to say is IMO and many other knife people 1095 is like a 1992 compound bow.

So your saying it still works.

I get what your saying, but people get WAY to hyped over these "new" steals.

I've had esee for a long ass time, and they still cut stuff when I need them to and are EXTREMELY easy to field sharpen.
Are there better steals? Absolutely, but they are not cheap either.

I wouldn't be butthurt if I chipped or broke an esee, I will get a new one for free, and it's a cheap knife. Now if I lost or broke a couple benchmades or spyderco's that I have I would be pissed.


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So if you had 3 exact knives and could only take one for a wood situation you would take the 1095 version?

Yes. If it had to be stainless then 440c

Once certain steels get dull(which they all will) there is no way I can field sharpen it back to where it should be. Now that may be a me problem, but I don't think it is.


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Pierrebuiltknives

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Yes. If it had to be stainless then 440c

Once certain steels get dull(which they all will) there is no way I can field sharpen it back to where it should be. Now that may be a me problem, but I don't think it is.


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I can repeadly cut cinder blocks with 3V and zwear I can also field sharpen both. Not that it what I want them for cutting cinder blocks but it is literally almost the only task that can produce any noticable damage. This whole field sharpening thing is the biggest crock. I dont care who says what.
 
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Cutting cinder blocks with knives, really? WTF is that even about other than some sort of Youtube 'gee whiz' nonsense?

Lot's of quality gear will rust if neglected.

I like my 1095 knives.
 

Pierrebuiltknives

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Messages
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All I am saying it there are better steels out there. That dont dull or rust as easy. That dont damage as easy. That are not as hard to sharpen as people pretend. I hope you can read the statement and understand its cutting cinder blocks is not what I intend to normally do with a knife but as far as simulations of possible field damage as far as testing tough steels is one of the only ways to cause noticeable damage.
 

Pierrebuiltknives

Lil-Rokslider
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So your saying it still works.

I get what your saying, but people get WAY to hyped over these "new" steals.

I've had esee for a long ass time, and they still cut stuff when I need them to and are EXTREMELY easy to field sharpen.
Are there better steals? Absolutely, but they are not cheap either.

I wouldn't be butthurt if I chipped or broke an esee, I will get a new one for free, and it's a cheap knife. Now if I lost or broke a couple benchmades or spyderco's that I have I would be pissed.


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Ya I get it. I can shoot my recurve pretty dam good at 30yards... but am getting a new compound to be able to shoot at 50+ yards. One would obviously understand that statement and idea. Now transfer that to knife performance. The recurve can still shoot arrows. It can still kill something at 50+ yards..
 
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I've got an old 1095 KA-BAR that has been over a lot of bad road. It still lives on, with a little maintenance along the way.

The Gerber spent some time outdoors too.

aKABARGerber.jpg
 
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