Inflatable Power Options

[Wild Coast Alaska]

I am looking at getting an inflatable - leaning towards the Kaboat/Chugach Mountain Sports style.

Wanting to hunt the Haul Road and use it to cross the Sag to access less traffic for bowhunting and/or to head up the Ivishak. I am completely aware that most of this depends on rapidly changing water levels of course. Just wanting to give ourselves options for a 7-10 day hunt around the last week in August.

What are your thoughts on:
1) 2 stroke jet outboard
2) pusher fan - airboat
3) Longtail type mud motor

Regardless of power options I plan on adding a whitewater style oarframe. I want to go inflatable route because I don't want to deal with a trailer on the Haul road and I am a charter captain and have enough boats, this application will serve a single purpose.

TIA

 

[FranklinBluth]

Ran the Ivishak with an inlatable jet raft this year and went about 35 miles upstream from the boat landing ( we hunted mid-August this year). We powered it with a 25 horse 4 stroke Yamaha. I'd say that's the bare minimum amount of power you'd want. There were numerous places on the way upriver that the tunneled hull + jet motor were pretty useful. That 4 stroke Yamaha is fairly light - 130lbs if memory serves correct.

Your thoughts on the trailer issue line up exactly with mine, which is why I went with the raft. I bought mine from Jet Tech in Wasilla - not sure how their supply chain is holding up as their rafts are made in Siberia. The only other inflatables we saw up there were the Jet Tech (Solar) rafts. Not saying it can't be done with another brand or raft style, just my experience.

Going to anticipate some of the other replies and agree that an airboat is the only guaranteed way to run those rivers regardless of water level. But the tunneled hull and small jet outboard are pretty damn useful too.

 

[Wild Coast Alaska]

Ran the Ivishak with an inlatable jet raft this year and went about 35 miles upstream from the boat landing ( we hunted mid-August this year). We powered it with a 25 horse 4 stroke Yamaha. I'd say that's the bare minimum amount of power you'd want. There were numerous places on the way upriver that the tunneled hull + jet motor were pretty useful. That 4 stroke Yamaha is fairly light - 130lbs if memory serves correct.

Your thoughts on the trailer issue line up exactly with mine, which is why I went with the raft. I bought mine from Jet Tech in Wasilla - not sure how their supply chain is holding up as their rafts are made in Siberia. The only other inflatables we saw up there were the Jet Tech (Solar) rafts. Not saying it can't be done with another brand or raft style, just my experience.

Going to anticipate some of the other replies and agree that an airboat is the only guaranteed way to run those rivers regardless of water level. But the tunneled hull and small jet outboard are pretty damn useful too.

That set up looks like the cat's pajamas for a raft. Out of curiosity, what do you think you have into it, $10-15k?

 

[FranklinBluth]

That set up looks like the cat's pajamas for a raft. Out of curiosity, what do you think you have into it, $10-15k?

Yep right in middle of that range. But you do have to travel light - I'd say I couldn't get on step beyond 900 lbs (counting the outboard) of weight in the raft. We had 3 guys + camp so we did two trips to haul everyone and camp upstream. Averaged around 17-18 mph going up and 22-25 mph going down.

 

[Wild Coast Alaska]

Yep right in middle of that range. But you do have to travel light - I'd say I couldn't get on step beyond 900 lbs (counting the outboard) of weight in the raft. We had 3 guys + camp so we did two trips to haul everyone and camp upstream. Averaged around 17-18 mph going up and 22-25 mph going down.

Yeah I was kind of thinking around that 1000lb weight would be the limit, unless you're pushing bigger hp, but everything scales up with more hp, including $$$$. What do you think your set up drafts loaded? Did the speeds you quoted change loaded vs unloaded? I watched some videos of the Jet Rangers last night and they looked quite maneuverable. Those guys were horse whipping those things though.

Hopefully some longtail guys will chime in. I've heard on the jon boats as long as there is enough water to float it will go.

 

[Bubblehide]

I recently picked up a Bombard. Looking at some of the videos, I am reinvigorated about getting it powered and set-up.

 

[Cheechako]

Disclaimer: I don’t have experience with any of those.
But… I did pretty extensive research before buying my zodiac, and I think the longtail would be your best bet on an inflatable scanoe style. I think you’d rip out your transom using a jet without a tunnel,
and overweight it with some kind of fan.
Longtail probably wouldn’t be too fast, but it’d be durable.
Also keep your rowing frame light! My rig ended up way too heavy.

 

[Wild Coast Alaska]

Disclaimer: I don’t have experience with any of those.
But… I did pretty extensive research before buying my zodiac, and I think the longtail would be your best bet on an inflatable scanoe style. I think you’d rip out your transom using a jet without a tunnel,
and overweight it with some kind of fan.
Longtail probably wouldn’t be too fast, but it’d be durable.
Also keep your rowing frame light! My rig ended up way too heavy.

Might not be too fast but beats walking the tussocks!

 

[Confluentus]

While those SOLAR rafts are certainly the bees knees, it sounds like availability with the whole Ukraine thing is going to be a problem for years to come.

Other inflatables, zodiak-style, will work with jet outboards. I’m not aware of any other brands with a tunnel hull similar to a SOLAR, but flat-hull inflatables will run surprisingly shallow with the transom built up properly.

One key to any inflatable with a jet is getting the hull rigid enough. The ones I have seen typically use insertable floorboards to make the floor more rigid. Otherwise you have to pump the hell out of it. The boat will not get on step properly (or, at all) without a sufficiently rigid floor.

 

[Mt Al]

FYI, I have zero hardcore river experience with my 15' heavy duty style Kaboat with 2 stroke 20 hp prop and have only fished lakes so far. It has enough room for two people with a ton of gear carefully packed, seems very rugged for the price, but have no clue about it's ability to pack a moose on top of everything else. Seems like several Alaskans have done this with the same Kaboat.

I did make a pretty stout rowing frame with Kee Klamp fittings and Home Depot chain link top rails and put on NRS oar mounts. The rowing frame isn't so much for rowing as it is to stiffen the raft up, mount the fish finder, front leaning post, rod holders, electric trolling motor, keep the cooler seats in place, along with other accessories and has light duty oars only. The rowing frame is strapped on in the "normal" rowing frame manner to D rings, but I also drilled holes for the cheezy oar-lock-bolt things that are on the Kaboat on the glued on patches to go through. Then, ever concerned with strength of the whole setup and this is hard to describe, extended the rowing frame to the transom and connected it with rod-ends and clevis pins. Might outlast the end of the world and keeps my 20hp and transom very rigid. You can kind of see some of this in this pic, but wish it was clearer. The whole thing is currently disassembled or I'd take better pics.

My next move when funds allow is a long tail for going up rivers, like Cheechako's thoughts in the posts above.

Most likely too much info, but I like this raft, it's easily disassembled and put into a truck for long trips. I have it on a modified Harbor Freight trailer for the relatively short trips I take.

The price is right! BOAT stands for Break Out Another Twenty vs. Thousand on this rig!

 

[Wild Coast Alaska]

While those SOLAR rafts are certainly the bees knees, it sounds like availability with the whole Ukraine thing is going to be a problem for years to come.

Other inflatables, zodiak-style, will work with jet outboards. I’m not aware of any other brands with a tunnel hull similar to a SOLAR, but flat-hull inflatables will run surprisingly shallow with the transom built up properly.

One key to any inflatable with a jet is getting the hull rigid enough. The ones I have seen typically use insertable floorboards to make the floor more rigid. Otherwise you have to pump the hell out of it. The boat will not get on step properly (or, at all) without a sufficiently rigid floor.

Yes, making the set up as rigid as possible without adding a bunch of weight is good advice!

 

[Wild Coast Alaska]

FYI, I have zero hardcore river experience with my 15' heavy duty style Kaboat with 2 stroke 20 hp prop and have only fished lakes so far. It has enough room for two people with a ton of gear carefully packed, seems very rugged for the price, but have no clue about it's ability to pack a moose on top of everything else. Seems like several Alaskans have done this with the same Kaboat.

I did make a pretty stout rowing frame with Kee Klamp fittings and Home Depot chain link top rails and put on NRS oar mounts. The rowing frame isn't so much for rowing as it is to stiffen the raft up, mount the fish finder, front leaning post, rod holders, electric trolling motor, keep the cooler seats in place, along with other accessories and has light duty oars only. The rowing frame is strapped on in the "normal" rowing frame manner to D rings, but I also drilled holes for the cheezy oar-lock-bolt things that are on the Kaboat on the glued on patches to go through. Then, ever concerned with strength of the whole setup and this is hard to describe, extended the rowing frame to the transom and connected it with rod-ends and clevis pins. Might outlast the end of the world and keeps my 20hp and transom very rigid. You can kind of see some of this in this pic, but wish it was clearer. The whole thing is currently disassembled or I'd take better pics. View attachment 470343

My next move when funds allow is a long tail for going up rivers, like Cheechako's thoughts in the posts above.

Most likely too much info, but I like this raft, it's easily disassembled and put into a truck for long trips. I have it on a modified Harbor Freight trailer for the relatively short trips I take.

The price is right! BOAT stands for Break Out Another Twenty vs. Thousand on this rig!

I totally see what you did there tying your transom to the oar frame. Good idea! Your rig looks pretty sweet!
Thanks for the picture. I like it.

 

[Larry Bartlett]

You can also use that "top rail" coupled with 1" electrical conduit. This allows the frame pieces to slide in together (male/female), then drill holes through both and lock with a tractor clip...now it's a breakdown frame with no bolts or wrenches required.

The downside is welding conduit...damn caustic vapors.

 

[z987k]

I've got one of the Saturns done by the dealer at lake hood. I use it in the airplane with a small prop outboard.

The only issue I see with something like the 20hp 4 stroke jet is that's probably past the transom weight limit. Just check on that.

I'm sure you'd get away with it for awhile, but I'd bet you'd also suddenly not get away with it at some point.

 

[Wild Coast Alaska]

You can also use that "top rail" coupled with 1" electrical conduit. This allows the frame pieces to slide in together (male/female), then drill holes through both and lock with a tractor clip...now it's a breakdown frame with no bolts or wrenches required.

The downside is welding conduit...damn caustic vapors.

Yes that green zinc smoke is nasty.

 

[Wild Coast Alaska]

I've got one of the Saturns done by the dealer at lake hood. I use it in the airplane with a small prop outboard.

The only issue I see with something like the 20hp 4 stroke jet is that's probably past the transom weight limit. Just check on that.

I'm sure you'd get away with it for awhile, but I'd bet you'd also suddenly not get away with it at some point.

Yes, catastrophic failure is not on the game plan. The CMS raft I was looking at needs to be under 140lbs for whatever is hanging off the transom. 25hp 4 stroke jet mentioned earlier weight was 130ish so in the ballpark it sounds like.

 

[Mt Al]

You can also use that "top rail" coupled with 1" electrical conduit. This allows the frame pieces to slide in together (male/female), then drill holes through both and lock with a tractor clip...now it's a breakdown frame with no bolts or wrenches required.

The downside is welding conduit...damn caustic vapors.

That's good to know, thanks. I need to make this frame more breakdown-able so it fits in the bed of the truck for longer trips. Will put a fan in place to blast the galvanized/zinc smoke!

I drilled through the top rail and Kee Klamp - 90 degrees off the threaded plug, and used a clevis pin and a ball-lock-pin for a breakdown part of the frame for the trolling motor plate, hangs off the side of the frame and batteries/cables inside the middle cooler seat. Wish the Kee Klamp threaded plugs had a finer thread pitch, but they do the job.

 

[mcseal2]

Not sure it’s helpful but I run a 1648 Lowe riveted Jon boat with an older 31hp Mud Buddy on a shallow sandy river. Its a short tail motor. I can run in 6” of water once on plane with up to 3 guys or 2 with a lot of gear. It runs about 20mph upstream, 23 down. When it was newer you could add 2-3mph to those numbers. It has a lot of hours.

It gets on plane quick but needs about a foot of water to get there.

Maybe give you some reference. Its a heavy motor at about 280lbs, about the same as the boat weighs.

Before getting the Mud Buddy I had a 13hp scavenger longtail. It never got past 6mph and getting on plane was not possible.

 

[mcseal2]

Pic of the boat.

 

[Arcticmanak]

I had a 14ft Sea Eagle inflatable for several years and ran it with a 35hp prop. It has rigid floorboards and is a very well built boat. I think if paired with an outboard jet you would do well.