rattle can paint for stock questions- * Updated 11/12/23 *

[mtwarden]

I think I found the paint I was looking for- Rustoleum Stone Creations

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7992830-Stone-Creations-Spray/dp/B000PIKFK2

First question - is that going to work for a synthetic stock? (Krylon makes a similar one called Coarse Stone Texture as well)

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K18201-Coarse-Texture-Granite/dp/B000C0186S

Second question - stock prep? Using rubbing alcohol enough?

Third question - should I use any primer or adhesive coat?

Fourth question - how many coats of paint, how long in between coats?

Fifth (and final ) question - use a coat of sealer? would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K18200007-Clear-Sealer-Ounce/dp/B0033PKFY0

Thanks a bunch!

 

[beachbunny]

i paint all my stuff,wipe it down.tape off the important parts and have at it, when it wears through ,i just do it again,same thing with my synthetic, i was looking at that stone paint,next go around.....

 

[Antares]

I've never used any of the textured paints so I'm not much help there.

Light sanding to roughen surface and then alcohol, acetone, or brake cleaner to degrease.

I don't use a primer.

Several coats of color, but the final number is up to you. If I was doing a solid color, I'd probably do 4-6 coats about 5 minutes apart.

Yes, I always do a sealer/clear coat. I use a matte finish clear coat. Probably 3 coats. Do it same as color, about 5 min between coats. I go right from color to clear coat (i.e., first clear coat 5 min after last color coat).

I let it cure for about a week after that just to make sure it's nice and hard before I proceed.

If your clear coat ends up too glossy (which happens even with matte finish sometimes), you can go over it with 0000 steel wool to dull it.

Hope that helps.

 

[darrenk75b]

I used to paint stocks as a side gig. Not all polymer stocks are created equal, that's for certain.
1. Scuff with a brillo pad or similar. Some stocks with more nylon will get fuzzy if you do more.
2. Degrease with your choice of solvent. Denatured alcohol was my preference, but a good soapy water and rinse works well too.
3. Tikka stocks were notorious for the paint not sticking. That is, until I started using the aerosol adhesion promoter spray I found at the local auto store. MUCH better. I then used that on every polymer stock I painted. Result improved significantly. NOTE - my results were based on a lot of stenciled camo patterns where the stenciling would pull the paint. It's unlikely to be noticed if you're just painting the stock with a spraypaint.
4. 2-3 coats. I'd follow the instructions on the can for reapplication times. Multiple light coats are better than fewer heavy coats.
5. If just using a spraypaint, I'd cover with a matte clearcoat just to help protect it from cleaning solvents.

 

[WCB]

I obviously remove stock and take off any trigger guards etc. tape off swivel studs or remove your choice.
Scuff with brillo pad
Wipe with alcohol.
I personally prime and let dry 24 hrs. Then spray my paint.
If you can do it evenly without having it run you can probably get by with one coat however I do 2 with base colors and then accents ill just hit quick.
You don't have to clear coat I just go sick of paint rubbing off easy on the center counsel of my truck and as darrenk75b says above protect it a bit for cleaning.

 

[WormSportsman]

I used that on a a stock recently. I like how it turned out but I did use a matte clear coat to finish it off after done painting. If not the little stone texturing seemed to brush off even after dry but it is solid after the matte clear finish.

 

[NE Herd Bull]

Recently got a great deal on here from a fellow Rokslider. Thanks brother! Win Mod70 300wsm.

Wanted to dress up the matte black stock.
-removed all metal parts and recoil pad
-used random orbit sander to scuff up the stock, and erase the manufacturing mold seam.
-wiped down with alcohol. Taped the action , barrel and floor plate inlets
-several coats of Krylon stone coarse texture spray
-couple of coats of clear matte spray



-i let it hang in the hot summer garage for a few days, so that the paint could fully cure
-reassemble and torque the action screws


Season is early so we will see how it handles the daily wear and tear. This is scheduled to be used on a young man's first elk hunt.

I will add.....I love the feel of the texture this paint adds. I think it will feel even better on wet or cold days in the field.

 

[mtwarden]

some great tips guys- thanks!

^ that's what I'm hoping to have my stock look like

 

[Oregonmuley]

I used to paint stocks as a side gig. Not all polymer stocks are created equal, that's for certain.
1. Scuff with a brillo pad or similar. Some stocks with more nylon will get fuzzy if you do more.
2. Degrease with your choice of solvent. Denatured alcohol was my preference, but a good soapy water and rinse works well too.
3. Tikka stocks were notorious for the paint not sticking. That is, until I started using the aerosol adhesion promoter spray I found at the local auto store. MUCH better. I then used that on every polymer stock I painted. Result improved significantly. NOTE - my results were based on a lot of stenciled camo patterns where the stenciling would pull the paint. It's unlikely to be noticed if you're just painting the stock with a spraypaint.
4. 2-3 coats. I'd follow the instructions on the can for reapplication times. Multiple light coats are better than fewer heavy coats.
5. If just using a spraypaint, I'd cover with a matte clearcoat just to help protect it from cleaning solvents.

Listen to this guy - he was the best stock painter ever

 

[GunsAreFun]

Grip it and rip it lol.

I’ve done a couple ARs. Degreased it first. Did three thin coats of a base (desert tan). Then did the patterns and covered with a matte clear coat. This is my main deer rifle. Painted it in 2016 and it is still holding up. It’s seen probably 50-60 days in the woods including rain, snow, and many miles of walking.

 

[Wapiti1]

I've done several stocks with granite texture paints. Both Krylon and Rustoleum work about the same.

Sand lightly with 220. Wipe with anything to degrease that you feel you want to use. I use white gas most of the time because it is handy. If doing a plastic stock, apply an adhesion promoter. The stuff used for car bumpers that you get at AutoZone works fine. Generally, I avoid work on plastic, or filled plastic.

Spray a first coat. Wait 15 minutes. Spray second coat.

It is a fast build paint, so go easy on the first coat. Look it over good and note thin spots for the second coat. Go easy if there is checkering to preserve it. That said, the texture is grippy on its own.

DO NOT touch it for 48 hours. The texture stays soft for a while. Once it cures, it is a very durable finish.




This is my .300 Win Mag. Photo circa 2017. Still in great shape after a couple more trips to AK. This was a Brown Precision Pounder stock that I got unfinished with a generic inlet. I bedded it for my modified Ruger barreled action. Rustoleum Granite finish.



Savage MLII muzzleloader on a 2015 New Mexico elk hunt. Took 7 years to draw another tag there, but for archery mule deer. This one was a Bell and Carlson Rem 700 stock that I redid to fit the Savage MLII. This one is done in Rustoleum granite.

Jeremy

 

[Amos Moses]

some great tips guys- thanks!

^ that's what I'm hoping to have my stock look like

Are you painting that kimber? Keep us posted on how it goes, I’d like to do something similar with mine.

 

[schmalzy]

some great tips guys- thanks!

^ that's what I'm hoping to have my stock look like

I followed the same general process as NE Herd Bull and have been very pleased with results. I used a primer but dealing with a carbon stock.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[long hunter]

Done a plastic stock a few years back on a .257 Bob with the krylon stone paint, just wiped the stock down very well with 100 percent rubbing alchol hung it on the clothes line in the sun to dry for a few hours and sprayed the stock with the paint let it hang a good 5 hours in direct sun light gave it a lite coat of satin clear let that dry then moved it into the shop and let it hang for a few days turned out very nice and has held up well,two trips to Wyomimg antelope hunting and a few days hunting eastern white tails. IT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE THE STOCK IN POST #7 only I removed the grip cap prior to painting it.

 

[MTSasquatch]

I’ve painted a few using the same process you’re already keen to. I didn’t bother with a sealer though. Notice some wear where my stock rubs constantly on pack, other gear. But still holds up well enough for a field rifle. I used primer on one and none on the other with no noticeable difference. I didn’t do any prep work other than cleaning grease off.

 

[mtwarden]

thanks guys- I'm feeling a bit more confident than I did before posting this thread up

Are you painting that kimber? Keep us posted on how it goes, I’d like to do something similar with mine.

I am; I'll let you know how it goes

 

[Unckebob]

Are you painting that kimber? Keep us posted on how it goes, I’d like to do something similar with mine.

I want to paint my Kimber Hunter, but it shoots so well that I am afraid take the stock off because it might ruin the magic.

 

[Crittergitter]

Ive always wanted to try this. Yall made me way less hesitant!

 

[Unckebob]

Ive always wanted to try this. Yall made me way less hesitant!

It"# not that hard unless you was want the perfect camo look.

Ive always wanted to try this. Yall made me way less hesitant!

I started with my cheap 10/22 stock.

 

[elkguide]

Done many stocks over the past 20 years. The "stone paint" you are talking about hasn't stood up to the hunts that the rifles that I painted with it have been on. It is more durable when top coated with several coats of a matte poly but still not one of my choices. Krylon, Rust Oleum and several others make "texture paints" that are much more durable and still give you some grip.

The last dozen or so stocks that I have painted, the people were wanting the spider web look. After cleaning the stocks, I used some painter's tape in all of the inletting and over the butt pad and grip cap. I then painted them with a base coat, (whatever color the customer wanted) and then used "Krylon Webbing Paint." (I have webbing paints in black, white, gray and gold right now) I then top coated them with 3 coats of a matte/flat polyurethane.

I am a house painter by profession so to me, "it's only paint." That means to me that if I didn't care for the way that it looked, I just let it dry, sanded/removed the paint and started over. If you are doing a pattern, leaf - grass - whatever) let each layer dry before applying the next layer as your patterns will tend to peel the "almost" dry layers. I have paint sprayers but don't have an HVLP sprayer that you would use for the webbing effect, so I use rattle cans. The trick to the webbing spray and really to any spray) is to try it on a piece of cardboard to get the feel for how the spray looks. Next key is to go light, as you can always add more. (It's hard to take too much off and still look good)

The poly gives your paint the durability that you need for most challenging hunting situations that you'll be putting your rifle through. The downside of poly is that it will off gas for several weeks, and you'll have that chemical smell hunting with you.

Good luck and remember....... "IT'S ONLY PAINT!"