300 wsm load help

carlc

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Ok guys, I need some intelligent help! I have just started to reload. I built a load for a 338 lapua last year that would put all three through one hole, but I am starting to think I got lucky on that one.

I have a tikka t3 lite, 300wsm, lh. Leupold vx3 4.5-14, in tikka rings. I have owned the gun since new, and have always shot federal premium 180 accubond with great success. 1-1.25 moa.

I am getting terrible horizontal stringing with my reloads, but not with factory stuff. I am trying to shoot the 210 ablr and am starting to think that it is a seating depth issue. I have shot two different t powders, rl-19 and h-414 with 6 different charges each, 5 shot groups. They all hit consistently 3-4 high, but are strung out over about 4" left to right. The photos shows the cardboard that each target was attached to.
I tested the chamber length with the hornady oal gauge, and three times came up with 2.94-2.95. My mag will only accept and feed rounds at 2.8, so that is where they are loaded. Is that too much of a jump? I have read yes and no. I am going to load some to 2.92 and single feed, to see if that is the issue. Also might try some 190 ablr.



180 factory loads, 2 fouling shots, 3 shot group.
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Horizontal stringing
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pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

WKR
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I typically will test seating depth right of the bat 0.010", 0.040", 0.070", etc (within reason) to get a ball park depth that shoots best and then work on powder charge. Then I'll double check +/- 0.010" from that depth near the end to see if there is room for improvement. My 7-08 tikka jumps fine 0.12" off the lands to fit the mag length but that's a samples size of 1. ;) If longer than the mag length works out better the good news is you can run a long action magazine and modified bolt stop to still feed those 300wsm rounds in.

Out of curiosity where do you put your non-trigger hand? I put mine on a rear bag which helps stabilize the rear of the rifle against trigger pull movement (along with good trigger control practices). If the rear of the gun gets moved around much it can string horizontally too.
 

stevevan

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Since your rifle shoots the factory ammo good. I'd take a loaded factory round and put it in the press and adjust your seating die to the factory round to duplicate its overall length.
 
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carlc

carlc

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That is very good to know about the bolt and magazine change. I have some longer stuff loaded now, going to try it out, .010 and .020 off lands. It should tell me if I'm going in the right direction anyway.

My off hand is on the rear bag controlling elevation, front is in a Caldwell rest. First pad on trigger, squeeze straight back. The scope is usually straight high of impact after the shot.

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carlc

carlc

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Well, I think I have it figured out. The front ring had walked back a full ring width. I took it to the gunsmith, pulled the scope, and something is loose inside of it. So i took that as good excuse to buy a Nightforce! Got it mounted up and going to test tomorrow

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Hodgdon 4350 was the magic powder for my tikka 300 wsm. Im using 165gr accubonds, mag length is my limiting factor as well. Get rid of the factory tikka rings. If weight isn't a concern the Warne built for tikka are Rock solid, I've literally fallen on the scope and it held zero with these rings. If you are trying to keep it light the talleys are nice as well.
 

deadwolf

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Glad you found the issue! Don't be surprised though if you have trouble getting those 210's to fly straight later though, even the Nosler manual doesn't recommend anything over a 190 in the Wsm. I'm shooting the 190 ABLR in mine and liking it a lot. I'm loading up some 165's as Pyroducks mentioned above, for a November mule deer hunt, hoping those shoot well too.


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carlc

carlc

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Glad you found the issue! Don't be surprised though if you have trouble getting those 210's to fly straight later though, even the Nosler manual doesn't recommend anything over a 190 in the Wsm. I'm shooting the 190 ABLR in mine and liking it a lot. I'm loading up some 165's as Pyroducks mentioned above, for a November mule deer hunt, hoping those shoot well too.


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Thanks for the info. I read that same thing earlier, but couldn't find any 190s in town. I just got my hands on them this morning. Going to load some up right now to try them out. I'm going to try the OCW method out. There sure is a lot to learn with reloading!

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carlc

carlc

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Got a good start with the OCW method. And the Nightforce is incredible.
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carlc

carlc

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Got a load nailed down. First one I've really done myself, it's pretty rewarding. I ended up with 66.5g h4831sc, 190 ablr, 2.92" oal. It gave me about 2840fps, with only a 12fps sd. I am now going to load up some more, zero at 200, then set a target at 600 for my true drop.
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Got a load nailed down. First one I've really done myself, it's pretty rewarding. I ended up with 66.5g h4831sc, 190 ablr, 2.92" oal. It gave me about 2840fps, with only a 12fps sd. I am now going to load up some more, zero at 200, then set a target at 600 for my true drop.
78f35532fca61059f1f37a408d644e9d.jpg


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Good job!;)
 

GKPrice

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Hodgdon 4350 was the magic powder for my tikka 300 wsm. Im using 165gr accubonds, mag length is my limiting factor as well. Get rid of the factory tikka rings. If weight isn't a concern the Warne built for tikka are Rock solid, I've literally fallen on the scope and it held zero with these rings. If you are trying to keep it light the talleys are nice as well.

Another option for mounts is from Mountain Tactical's Tikka performance shop - hardened alloy rail MADE FOR TIKKA's then use the rings of your choice - Mountain Tactical's Tikka website is worth a look as they have chosen a particular action/rifle and taken all things to a logical end - I normally use the alloy rail and Leupold Rifleman rings (some poo poo those rings but I've shot 100's and 100's of rounds and hunted days upon days with them and never had one problem whatsoever), the upside is you have a mounting system that is rock solid and user friendly for barely heavier than Talley mounts
 

GKPrice

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Thanks for the info. I read that same thing earlier, but couldn't find any 190s in town. I just got my hands on them this morning. Going to load some up right now to try them out. I'm going to try the OCW method out. There sure is a lot to learn with reloading!

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It never ends ......
 

HiMtnHntr

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I'm having good luck with Reloder 17 in the 300 wsm. I believe the Tikkas are 11" twists like their Sako counterparts, so most would tell you that 190 is about tops. However, mine is an 11" and I've got good results with the 210s I go ahold of....
 

907to406

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Looks like its coming together for you. I was also going to suggest ditching the tikka rings and swapping out the aluminum recoil lug for an aftermarket one. My factory tikka lug was showing signs of wear after about 50 rounds.
 
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carlc

carlc

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Thanks for the help guys. I meant to call tikka performance today, I am going to order the recoil lug, I had planned on it anyway. I also need to get specs on the longer magazine to fit these cartridges. Does anyone know if I will have to do the bolt face mod to run 2.92 oal?

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greentimber

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I've loaded for three 300WSM and all three have liked 66.5 RE17 under a 168 TTSX. Provides 3100fps and low SD. Looks like you have a good start on your load.
 
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