Any Mechanics? 2001 Tundra Brake Issues

CorbLand

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Are there any mechanics on this board? I have been chasing a braking problem on my 2001 Tundra for a year and cannot figure it out.

If I get above about 50 MPH and hit the brakes, the whole pickup shakes and it feels like the back end is hopping. I get very little vibration or movement in the steering wheel. You can feel it in the front seats and center console. The brake pedal shutters a little under your foot as well but nothing terrible.

The whole front end is less than two years old and is still tight. Just put new shocks and shoes on the back yesterday hoping that was the problem, but nope. I have searched the web and cant find anything similar to this.

I dont think its the rotors as the its not coming through the steering wheel. I am left with master cylinder, brake booster and proportioning valve. Any suggestions?
 

brocksw

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Not sure if it's the same issue but go to Tundras.Com forum and search for brake issues on gen 1 Tundras. There was a known issue with gen 1 tundra brakes, I can't remember exactly what the source of the issue was. My grandpa had an 01 and had brake problems as well and it was a pretty common issue.

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You say new shoes, did you turn the drums?

If you did, next I would be looking for a worn out/loose rear suspension piece. Leaf spring bushings, u-bolts, etc. Hell you could have broken 1 of the leaves in the spring pack.

Do you whoop on this rig or is it babied?
 
OP
CorbLand

CorbLand

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You say new shoes, did you turn the drums?

If you did, next I would be looking for a worn out/loose rear suspension piece. Leaf spring bushings, u-bolts, etc. Hell you could have broken 1 of the leaves in the spring pack.

Do you whoop on this rig or is it babied?
Didnt turn the drums. I am going to find a place to do that sometime this week.

Checked the entire rear suspension and its all solid.

Its not rallied but its not babied either.
 

ElkNut1

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Definitely a drum or rotor issue! If it starts shaking even a little as you touch brake pedal at 50 mph or so then it's the front brakes. Your front brakes engage before the rears do. If shake starts as brakes are pressed on the more firm side then it's most likely from the rears!


ElkNut/Paul
 

nrh6.7

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Vibrations in the steering wheel or floorboard by the pedals is a front end issue. Seats vibrations usually means something going on with the rear. Front brakes get more force via the proportioning valve, but all four should engage at the same time. Did you rebuild the wheel cylinders in the drums and adjust the parking brake correctly? Assuming everything was reinstalled correctly (springs) you probably have a drum issue. Little shoe to the front and big shoe to the rear
 

RyanCmns

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Your brakes should be like 80% rear and 20% front driven from your proportioning valve out of round drums would do it. Not sure on the toyotas but I know on the dodge front ends the angle off your control arms are a big deal that's where my death wobble came from also have had tire shake issues from the upper control arm

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nrh6.7

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Your brakes should be like 80% rear and 20% front driven from your proportioning valve out of round drums would do it. Not sure on the toyotas but I know on the dodge front ends the angle off your control arms are a big deal that's where my death wobble came from also have had tire shake issues from the upper control arm

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The PV's job is to reduce the amount of brake pressure going to the rear brakes, as the front brakes do the majority of the work. Too much rear pressure results in lock-up (sans ABS) or too little front stopping power. While each vehicle's ratio is different, your numbers should be reversed if I'm reading your post correctly.
 
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It's a rotor or drum issue and most likely rotors. You can sometimes diagnose which end by applying the parking brake while driving and feel for the pulsing.
If you determine it to be rotors, skip turning them and just replace. Make sure all contact points between the pads, pins, and calipers are free. Apply a slight film of brake grease at these points as well.
 

7mmremmag

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Rock Auto has some acdelco wholesaler closeout front rotors for that thing for $21, it probably needs them anyways and that is the most likely issue.
 

Wapiti1

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As others have suggested, replace the drums on the rear. It sounds like the rear to me. I've never had bad front rotors not feedback through the wheel or pedal. Just my experience and opinion.

If you have anti-lock brakes, the other things to check are the anti-lock speed sensors in the rear. If one of those goes bad, the anti-lock system will engage thinking the wheel isn't spinning. The older brake systems don't always have internal diagnostics to tell you a sensor failed like new systems do. You can test them with a volt meter, or they can be checked with a scanner.

Jeremy
 

Squamch

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Your brakes should be like 80% rear and 20% front driven from your proportioning valve out of round drums would do it. Not sure on the toyotas but I know on the dodge front ends the angle off your control arms are a big deal that's where my death wobble came from also have had tire shake issues from the upper control arm

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Opposite, brake bias should be to the front, not rear.
 
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CorbLand

CorbLand

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Rock Auto has some acdelco wholesaler closeout front rotors for that thing for $21, it probably needs them anyways and that is the most likely issue.
I saw that but by the time you ship everything its not much more to just buy them here locally. I think I will order a set of rotors and drums from NAPA. Then I can replace them one at a time and take them back if I dont need them.

I will keep you guys posted. Damn old pickups.
 

realunlucky

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I doubt it's a drum problem. Possibly a warped rotor but I'd venture it's a wheel bearing.

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