Arrow weight, arrow speed, tuning

[Whitetaildown215]

Ok so I just picked up a used mathews chill, ordered a new twisted x tring and cable set, had a new qad arrow rest installed. Bow specs are 70#/28" draw. I am trying to decide on an arrow, this will be for whitetail. I took my old arrows I had on my triax which weigh 530 grains. The bow did NOT like those and was getting a very bad tear that the tech could not get out. That arrow was a VAP TKO .300 with the 95 grain insert, 3 max stealth vanes, no wrap, nocturnal knock, and cut 29" carbon to carbon. We then built a VAP TKO .350 cut 27.5" carbon to carbon, 95 grain insert, nocturnal, but with 3 blazer vanes weighing 474 grains. It still had a low tear but the left tear was gone if that makes since. He said he didnt want to move my rest up anymore because we were getting way off center. Also when we set the rest up we used the heavy arrow with the aae vanes, so when we built the new arrow the blazers hit the cable. What I am getting at is the heavy arrow flew at 251fps, the lighter was 265fps (if I remember right, my triax was 267 with the heavy arrows and I know these light ones on the chill werent that fast but over 260fps). According to my OT2 i have the heavy ones are about perfect and the lighter ones are way underspined. Yet the lighter were tuning better. So my question is which way should i go? Also this bow shop just recently took on mathews and said this setup is way backwards of hoyt so should i find a different shop? He sold me my triax last year and did a great job setting it up but the chill is a bit different. Also would you guys be comfortable with 251fps and the heavier arrow or 265fps with the lighter using a fixed blade head on both. I really appreciate any help as season is quickly approaching.

 

[Billy Goat]

What point weight are you running? 100 I'm assuming but want to make sure. I think you are pushing the spine a bit. I'd try cutting down your 300's to the 27.5. Other option is try reducing your draw weight and see if it starts to clean it up. I also don't put much in to paper tuning. Are you shooting it at different distances through paper? Try walk back tuning. Also check to make sure the nocking point is correct. I use the rest to raise and lower the nocking point since it's easier, but you need to make sure the nocking point is close to start with. I generally start with a nocking point dead center of my axle to axle, maybe a 1/16 towards top axle. I haven't tuned a Mathews in 10 years tho, might be a few tricks I don't know with them. Also I'm assuming the timing is dead on?

The speed wouldn't bother me for whitetail so long as you have a rangefinder.

 

[nphunter]

I don't think it has anything to do with the arrows. You can shoot a weak spine arrow just fine in most cases unless you go super weak, I was shooting VAP 300's at 28 CTC with 75gr of brass up front and 100gr tips out of my 77lb CST with zero issues. I was about 315fps and was able to tune fixed heads to fly great out to 90 yards.

I would either do a bunch of research and tune the bow yourself or take it to another person or shop. To me it doesn't sound like they have a clue. Typically high and low tears are easy to get rid of, it is possible there is still a contact issue giving you problems. Put a level on your string and another on your arrow, they should both be very close to level at the same time and shoot well, make sure the timing is correct, you can research where it is supposed to be and set it up looking in a mirror or at least check it that was. Also make sure your limb bolts are backed out the exact same distance if they are not that can give you issues as well. Even with a really messed up bow and tune you should be able to counteract most of these things and get good flight if you know what you are doing (or the shop). Fletching contact, however, cannot be tuned out, if your getting contact you will have to address that first, try shooting a bare shaft into paper and see if it still gets a similar tear.

 

[Brandon_SPC]

This is what I would do. I would cut the VAP 300s down to about 27.5 - 28" carbon to carbon and put the 95 grain insert with your weight point on the front. Assuming you are shooting a 100-125. This arrow should be plenty stiff enough to account for the 195-220 grains in the front.

Then from there I would make sure the cams are timed. You can have a huge headache tuning a bow if the cams are not timed. Tears that results in cams that are not timed are vertical tears. That is the first thing that needs to be done and I am willing to bet that is causing the headache of the vertical tears.

In regards to your velocity I shot a buck last year at 53 yards. The 640 grain arrow was leaving the bow at 243 fps and the deer never knew what hit him. Literally he walked like 40 yards and fell over. The question is do you think you will be okay with that trajectory. It isn't bad but some people just don't like that type of trajectory which is understandable.

 

[sdarcher]

If I remember correctly, the Chill was very sensitive to grip torque, which could be causing a left/right tear. I really don't think that spine is the issue. You may not be spined perfectly, but a fletched arrow will easily correct slight spine variance. However, I think you need to find a different bow tech.

I would set the center shot which is 13/16" for the chill, and set the the rest so you're arrow is running nock level through the center of the berger hole. From there, I would adjust the nock height vs the rest height to clear up any nock high/low tears, assuming the bow is timed properly. If your cams are out of time, you will also see high/low tears.

With the center shot set, and the nock high/low problem solved, I believe the only way to correct a left/right tear would be to shim the cams. Sometimes, swapping the shims from the left to the right and the right to the left will be all you need. A good bow tech is worth their weight in gold.

 

[Whitetaildown215]

Thanks for the advice guys. Taking my .300 spine arrows to get them cut down tomorrow and hopefully to my old bow shop this weekend to get everything set up again.

 

[sdarcher]

Thanks for the advice guys. Taking my .300 spine arrows to get them cut down tomorrow and hopefully to my old bow shop this weekend to get everything set up again.

Good Luck!!! Hope you get it all figured out

 

[captn kirk]

shooting a chill R same setup 28 inch draw and arrow at 70 lbs I am set up with a Easton Hexx 330 50gr insert and a 100 gr head total is 420 gr. This setup has been killer on whitetail nap spitfire and kill zone heads. I hope i can report how this will work on elk with a fixed blade( Muzzy 3 blade). No problem with the fixed shooting same as the field points

 

[Whitetaildown215]

Does this look right? I thought on a mathews the string is suppose to run through the middle of the hole? The 1st picture is my bottom cam. The 2nd is my top cam.

 

[Swampcruiser]

Yes, that looks right. They are just for rough timing and look pretty good. You need to have a buddy watch your stops as you come to full draw.
My bet would be as mentioned above, you nock set or D loop needs to come down a touch -