Arrows inconsistent, spine issue?

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1woolie89

1woolie89

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Someone mentioned a form thing with your release...dont rule that out.

FWIW,
I primarily shoot a stickbow now...but I can tell you this:

Way back, I did a little test with my compound and release. If I pulled harder into my face vs pulling more in line ( straight back) I could turn a bullet hole tuned arrow into a 1 1/2” tear.

——-
You know that could be somthing, I tuned this bow with my thumb release and switched to a wrist because I injured my shoulder 2 years ago and it seemed to like the wrist release better. I have some testing to do.
 
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1woolie89

1woolie89

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My specs are very similar, 29/63. I shoot a 123 gr. up front on a .340. I’ve known I was borderline too weak, but I’ve gotten good results with this build. I’m pretty diligent with my arrow builds. That being said, I’m moving to a .300 and about 150-175 gr. up front, and shortening my arrow to about 28” ctc.

Paper tune is very important. I’d check every arrow’s tear. Have you numbered your arrows to see if the fliers are consistent? You might then nock tune them to see if that helps your tear and grouping.

If you still can’t tune the tear (or inconsistency) out, take 3-4 pounds off the bow and everything. If it cleans up, that would suggest an underspined arrow at 65 lbs.


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Great idea turning the poundage down, I will try this out. The more I look the more it’s pointing to arrows. Will test more before spending on new 300’s
 

dkime

WKR
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Feb 25, 2015
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751
You know that could be somthing, I tuned this bow with my thumb release and switched to a wrist because I injured my shoulder 2 years ago and it seemed to like the wrist release better. I have some testing to do.
Switching to a wrist release is going to change your alignment and cause your float to slow down which is probably why youre finding it to be a little more easy to shoot.
 

Hoot

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You’re on the right track to figuring it out, but I will add, while all charts will likely point to being under spined, you’ll find with that particular cam, an “under spined” arrow will tune better. On my centergy, I shoot .330 shafts with 175gr up front, 29” @ 71 lbs...

paper tune and go from there, don’t rush to judgement on your shafts yet!
 
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Prime Grips can be a real challenge to get repeatable and consistent pressure/torque, side to side shot after shot. That grip is so nice and round it's very difficult to tell when you might have slightly more pressure one direction or the other. I would start by picking a point on the riser that your cables cross and mark each side of the cable, when at full draw, so you can see your marks on the riser. Once you draw and anchor glance up at the marks to make sure your grip is set side to side. I certainly think your arrows are fine but may need to be cut down 2" or so (cut from the back) and then bareshaft tune every shaft through paper before you fletch. If the shaft has a tear instead of a perfect bullet and you made a good shot either rotate the nock 1/8-1/4 turn or if they are all doing it then tune your bow. This will get every arrow coming out of the bow the same way. It also shows your shot to shot inconsistencies.
 

406unltd

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Jul 6, 2018
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underspined.... idk what your point weight is but at 100g head and a 50g brass it’s underspined. 100g head and insert that came with the arrows still leaving you underspined.
 

Marble

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May 29, 2019
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Being underspined isn't going to cause inconsistent left and rights. Try some nock tuning, your grip, and your form.
Thank you! I was going to say this.

If it were my bow I would make sure everything is perfect with the bow.

Cam timing
Center shot
Check draw weight
Nock level with rest
Rest timing
Check for vane contact

Paper tune

Then if needed cut my arrows. At 29.5 you could go as short as 28" carbon to carbon.



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1woolie89

1woolie89

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Snow storms been hitting my mountain here in CA, testing still in works thanks for all the reply’s!
 
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1woolie89

1woolie89

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Hey guys update coming in...

So I swapped up my arrows, bought
•VAP SS in 300 spine W/75 grain inserts.
•502 grains fletched
Also changed release to
•B3 archery Ranger Hinge.

Currently 6 arrows only one fletched, attempting to bare shaft tune. Already noticed a better flight pattern swapping to 300s and a hinge.

here’s some pics of my tests in the last 30 mins: As I moved the rest little by little the groups started looking better. Still learning how to tune but am I’m I looking good so far?
 

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1woolie89

1woolie89

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First 2 sets here didn’t post :
 

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1woolie89

1woolie89

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Last 2 rounds right here, fletched arrow looks more sideways then the bare or it just the angle I’m looking at them
 

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Looks like you are getting the hang of it. Bag targets can be difficult to judge bareshafts. The arrows don't always show how they hit because of the reaction of the bag. A layered target is a lot of times easier to use for bareshafts.

I'd keep playing with bareshafts just to work on your form. A few pictures they are going in different directions see if you can get them all the same, but it could be the bag target causing it a bit too.
 
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1woolie89

1woolie89

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Looks like you are getting the hang of it. Bag targets can be difficult to judge bareshafts. The arrows don't always show how they hit because of the reaction of the bag. A layered target is a lot of times easier to use for bareshafts.

I'd keep playing with bareshafts just to work on your form. A few pictures they are going in different directions see if you can get them all the same, but it could be the bag target causing it a bit too.
Thank you, yeah I was just thinking that also. I pulled that fletched one out and shot it again and got better result. Perhaps the Foam broad head target weighted down will help more.
 
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1woolie89

1woolie89

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Finally got the paper set up today... here’s what happen .. made some adjustments to rest after first shots, then had huge tears. Come to find my Drop away stopped dropping. MOVED my football a tad and fixed it. Few more rounds later and I’m getting bullets from 4-8 yards. Well now what? Haha I set up a French tune to see the next steps.
 

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