Bare shaft question

[Rusty Green]

Yep sounds like the fletched setup is about right then. One thing you could do to test a little further if you have extra vanes or dont mind ordering a few more is to fletch one up in the 4 fetch config but cut off the vane right above the base so you get most of the tail weight with out the flight correction of the full vane. But to me it sounds like it is pretty well dialed if fletched flys good with 4 fletch vanes and the bare shaft is showing weak. This is assuming you are where you want to be with everything else related to the arrow setup like preferred head, total arrow weight, FOC.

Everything is pretty close to how I want it as far as head weight and total arrow weight the tail left was just bothering me but the bare shaft didn’t really show anything until 15yds and further is when you could actually watch it start going tail left.

 

[plentycoupe]

I’ve been doing this for a long long time!

Bareshafting while helpful can also be a mental roller coaster! For example I have some arrows flying like darts with no feathers. I have been shooting them for a while now. Could shoot the bareshaft out to 40 with no issues. They group right with my fletched arrows.

Then ALL OF THE SUDDEN….last week my bareshaft started showing stiff in flight….I’m sure it’s a FORM ISSUE....this has happened numerous times over the years and if you let it…..will make you pull your hair out. Your FORM must be consistent.

This is what I would do to keep my sanity and to keep from changing arrows and wasting money….if your bareshaft is fly reasonably straight….and the arrow setup is what you want….fletch it up and spend a week shooting broadheads. If the arrow flies great with broadheads….ACCEPT the results and STOP shooting our bareshaft for now. Shoot the fletched arrows and work on accuracy and form.

I will repeat…too much focus on that bareshaft without understanding that FORM causing a billion issues will have you committing yourself to an asylum and in dept to an arrow company

 

[oldgoat]

I’ve been doing this for a long long time!

Bareshafting while helpful can also be a mental roller coaster! For example I have some arrows flying like darts with no feathers. I have been shooting them for a while now. Could shoot the bareshaft out to 40 with no issues. They group right with my fletched arrows.

Then ALL OF THE SUDDEN….last week my bareshaft started showing stiff in flight….I’m sure it’s a FORM ISSUE....this has happened numerous times over the years and if you let it…..will make you pull your hair out. Your FORM must be consistent.

This is what I would do to keep my sanity and to keep from changing arrows and wasting money….if your bareshaft is fly reasonably straight….and the arrow setup is what you want….fletch it up and spend a week shooting broadheads. If the arrow flies great with broadheads….ACCEPT the results and STOP shooting our bareshaft for now. Shoot the fletched arrows and work on accuracy and form.

I will repeat…too much focus on that bareshaft without understanding that FORM causing a billion issues will have you committing yourself to an asylum and in dept to an arrow company

He isn't lying!

 

[baeloth]

Hey Rusty, I agree completely with Plentycoupe, and have had similar issues with my bareshaft tuning. One additional thing to look at but not obsess over, is nock height. too low, or to much down pressure on string at release can cause the arrow to contact the shelf, and kick the arrow nock left looking week.

 

[baeloth]

Lol I could see how it can break you financially but I’m shooting the same 6 400 spine axis I bought when I got my riser I just put 100 grain inserts in and play with point weights while experimenting with form. Also I notice a big change when going from both eyes open to one eye open whats the consensus on that do most shoot both eyes open or one closed because it really seems to change my point of impact.

I am crosseyed dominant, left eye dominant, but shoot right handed. I need to close my left eye when I'm drawing to line up my windage. I open both eyes to fix on the target. When I was gapping, i always shot with left eye closed.

If I shoot without checking windage with left eye closed, I usually impact left of aim.

 

[Hawkeye29]

I’m working through this right now with my hunting setup. I will say this, while it might not be as exaggerated, the broadhead will mimic the bareshaft. Yet a fletched broadhead arrow will be more forgiving than just a bare shaft. So if you are “close” with a bareshaft I would say switch to a broadhead and tune that..

Currently have the 200gr broadheads about 3/4” right of field tips at 25yds. Gonna keep tweaking to get it perfect!

 

[Rusty Green]

I am crosseyed dominant, left eye dominant, but shoot right handed. I need to close my left eye when I'm drawing to line up my windage. I open both eyes to fix on the target. When I was gapping, i always shot with left eye closed.

If I shoot without checking windage with left eye closed, I usually impact left of aim.

I’ve tried one eye closed and sometimes it works most times it don’t lol I’m usually most consistent with both eyes open as long as I angle my bow correctly sometimes I get 5 arrows in a 5inch circle at 20 sometimes it’s 3 arrows in a circle the size of a beer can and 2 around it usually high right or low left I’m still playing with it I’m thinking longer limbs will help with my sh*tty release. Also I anchor at the corner of my mouth, like index finger in between my upper and lower lip.

 

[GilG]

I do the bareshaft planing test at around 10 yards and then again at 20. That is the tuningbI learned a couple decades ago from the Easton catalog and still do. Although I was shooting oly then. Can't play with plunger spring tension on tradbows so its thickness and sometimes hardness of the shelf material that moves point of bareshaft impact.

 

[Rusty Green]

I do the bareshaft planing test at around 10 yards and then again at 20. That is the tuningbI learned a couple decades ago from the Easton catalog and still do. Although I was shooting oly then. Can't play with plunger spring tension on tradbows so its thickness and sometimes hardness of the shelf material that moves point of bareshaft impact.

I don’t know how much difference it makes but I’m shooting a springy rest and when I was shooting off bare fingers my bare shaft would shoot perfect at 20yds with a 100grain insert and 100grain field point I just got a yost tab and I’m stiff until about 150 grains over the 100 grain insert I don’t mind shooting off bare fingers but the tab seems to be a little bit more quiet on the release.

 

[Dalton Lewis]

20-25 yards for me, I’ve really liked it over the years but like others have mentioned you’ve also got to be very consistent in your shot. Great way to get laser flight though!

 

[Squarebill]

20 yds. I've skipped paper on the single string and have gone to bare shafts and slow motion video.

Rob, which slo-mo video did you like best/

 

[Rob5589]

Rob, which slo-mo video did you like best/

I just use my phone

 

[ledflight]

I just use my phone

Yes, this seems like such a good tool we're all lucky to have these days for this.

 

[Solitude]

Where and how do you guys place your phone for slo mo? Tall tripod over your shoulder? Anyone place it at the target? Just curious.