Barrel Length? 6.5 CM Suppressed

skywalkr

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Nov 9, 2018
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I just got a Tikka T3x Lite in 6.5 CM and I want to use my SilencerCo Omega on it so I am going to have the barrel cut down and threaded but I’m not sure what length I should go with and was hoping to get some input from you guys with a lot more experience.

The rifle will be kept on the lighter side of things (not super lightweight) so I don’t want it to be too muzzle heavy and having the barrel shorter than it’s current length would be nice to make it less cumbersome with the suppressor attached.

The main purpose for the rifle is hunting, almost exclusively deer, and realistic hunting distances are under 500 yards. I’d like to stretch it’s legs at times out to 1000 yards for learning and practice but those times are going to be few and far between mainly due to a lack of access.

Any recommendations? I was thinking 20” or 18.5” after seeing Yellowknifes Tikka that he cut down to 18.5” but that was a 30.06 (not sure if it really makes that much of a difference).
 

30338

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My 6.5-06 is 18 as well as my 30-06. That gets me 24" oal and handles great. I'd go 18" and never look back.
 

WestexSBK

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Nov 25, 2018
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Be sure to let your Omega cool between shots. I’ve owned now 3 barrels in 6.5x47L at 16.5” and can tell your from experience the coating SiCo uses will start to discolor and eventually need recoated. I was getting 2750fps with a 123gr amax and 2600fps with 130 hybrids and Vlds from all three barrels.
 

JigStick

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Better check your barrel contour and see if you have the minimum OD to cut the threads. If its a light sporter contour I doubt you'll have enough material to cut 5/8 x 24 threads on it.

using bushing adapters isn't ideal either. Do you have a set of calipers? Measure the OD at 18in and see what it measures
 
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skywalkr

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Better check your barrel contour and see if you have the minimum OD to cut the threads. If its a light sporter contour I doubt you'll have enough material to cut 5/8 x 24 threads on it.

using bushing adapters isn't ideal either. Do you have a set of calipers? Measure the OD at 18in and see what it measures
Multiple members here have gone with the 1/2-28 and used a 5/8-24 bushing on their Tikkas so that’s what I was planning on doing as well. Any reason not to? There doesn’t seem to be much of a choice.

I think SilencerCo makes a 1/2-28 direct thread mount but I’m not sure if that would be the best option.
 

WestexSBK

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.730” is the general requirement for 5/8”x24 threads. I don’t recommend bushings but honestly know many ppl that have used them without problem
 

ahlgringo

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Mar 27, 2014
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I am going through something very similar right now. Have a t3 lite in 06 and omega can. I ultimately decided to cut to 20” and thread 1/2x28. Cutting back even to 16” will not allow 5/8x24 safely (according to my smith anyway). His rec was 1/2x24 then run either asr mount from silencerco or thier direct thread. Also said 9/16 threads would work as well- then you would have to run adapter though. He was not a fan of bushings either.

Length is up to you- you know the variables and your hunting style


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JigStick

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I own multiple custom rifles and multiple pistol and rifle suppressors. and in my 12yrs of experience shooting suppressed I highly recommend not using a bushing. For a multitude of reasons. But the big ticket items are changes in POI, consistency, and baffle strikes. Swap the barrel contour and do it right. Or you risk personal injury, rifle damage, or suppressor damage. All are costly issues.
 

Oldffemt

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Finally! I've made several similar posts to very similar threads the past couple weeks. I was starting to think I was the only guy on this forum that had adequate shoulder on my barrels. Spec's are there for a reason and physics is real. :)
Well damn. I had just about talked myself into a bushing for my 06 featherweight barrel. I’ve been holding off on it for years due to hearing about it being less than an ideal fix. Looks like I can honestly tell my wife that I “need” a new rifle or at least a new proof barrel in 06ai 😋
 
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skywalkr

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Well now I’m thinking about getting a carbon barrel and a new stock while I’m at it. This budget gun is starting to get a bit more expensive and I have a whole lot of research to do.
 

HGL

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luke moffat

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I have owned 24", 20", 18", and now 16.5" 6.5CMs. And load for a couple 22" 6.5CM as well.

These are roughly velocity handload numbers for a 147 ELD out of each length:

24"=2875 fps
22= 2830 fps
20"=2750 fps
18=2700 fps
16.5=2560 fps

Lots of variables with lots of difference brass, primers, rifles actions, barrels all used but thats how it shook out for me.

Really so long as the bullet has enough velocity to expand and do its job its going to kill it. Being as this rifle below is an ultralight rifle at less than 6 pounds with a suppressor on it its not meant as a LR hunting rig and yet it still carries a 147 to over 1800 fps even at sea level to over 600 yards. And is still very much super sonic till beyond 1200 yards so I most certainly will be plinking at some steel at 1K+ just like I did with the 18" barrel 6.5 CM is had. But I like short light and handy and will give 250 yards of velocity to my 24" 6.5 CM which drops below 1800 fps at roughly 875 yards or so for a much handier package that is still plenty capable in the application of the rifle. To me I don't feel you'll be leaving much on the table for what you are planning on doing by going 18" or even shorter.

 
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skywalkr

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Thanks Luke, that’s really helpful. I definitely think I’m going to go with an 18” barrel, now I just have to decide if I want to make the stock one work or if I want to go the semi-custom route (which is quite appealing to me but not my wallet).
 

fnf01

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Finally! I've made several similar posts to very similar threads the past couple weeks. I was starting to think I was the only guy on this forum that had adequate shoulder on my barrels. Spec's are there for a reason and physics is real. :)
Not to hijack the thread but as someone with no real knowledge behind the "physics" of suppressors and barrel contors/shoulders etc. Why is adequate shoulder needed? I've read lots of comments that are saying so and I just have been taking them at face value but I'd like to know why too.
 

Brightwhite

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I have a 20” Creedmoor that I setup for a suppressor (if the govt will ever let me have it...). I am getting 2625 avg speed with Hornady 143 eldx precision hunter factory ammo.

I wouldn’t hesitate to go 18”, but 20” seemed like a good compromise to me so that’s what I did.
 

gbflyer

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Feb 20, 2017
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Silencerco makes direct thread mounts for that in many different sizes. No bushing required. Thread it to whatever size leaves .125 on each side of the hole and fire away.

As far as length is concerned, I have a 25” Creed and a 20” Creed. There isn’t a nickels worth of difference in fps.
 

204guy

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Cut it at 18", thread 9/16-24 and get a 9/16 can or run a 9/16-5/8 adapter. Done deal and easy. Other than the Fieldcraft the suppressor/rifle market hasn't caught up to practical suppressed hunting rifles. If you want to thread a sporter contour barrel other than a few select options you really don't have a choice but to run an adapter. You are stacking tolerances but a lot of guys are doing it without issue. I'm also assuming you'll be running a .30 cal can on your 6.5 so that makes a baffle strike much less likely.
 
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