Bedding the rail on your rifle

[30338]

Have an old favorite Rem 700 action. Due to how it was machined, the rear base is lower than it should be. So I take the time to bed the rail to this one if and when I swap them. Probably takes up about 1/64 of bedding as seen in the pic. This allows you to mount the rail in a stress free environment, insures it is straight and not flexed, and allows for perfect ring alignment.

Took less than $1 worth of JB weld and some blue tape and q tips. If your Rem is not perfectly machined, I'd recommend doing this. After it cures, I'll loctite the screws up and it'll be time to roll. Had used Talley aluminums on this previously and was always miffed at the ring marks. Probably not 100% a ring issue lol.

 

[Watrdawg]

One way to determine if you need to bed a rail is to hand tighten the back end of the rail and then take the thinnest feeler gauge to see if it will slip between the rail and the action at the front of the rail. Then do the same procedure on the front end and see if the feeler gauge will slip under the rear end of the rail. If this happens at either end then you need to bed the rail. Thankfully I've only had to do this once in 4 rifles I mounted rails on. It was Remington also.

 

[Muley Buck]

Do as Broz says, bed them all. As was stated, it's a cheap way to attain perfect alignment. Why not do it??

 

[Watrdawg]

It is easy to do and I should start making it a standard practice.