Bow tuning questions

[JoeDirt]

I dont mind paying a pro shop but I would like to learn to tune my bow better.

I just added a Hamskea rest and Spot Hogg sight. Trying to work through paper tuning issues.

Bowtech BTX-31
70# 28.5"
300 spine arrow (paper tuning with 125 point)

Im getting a nock high tear with a bare shaft that wont tune out. Fletched seems ok however the arrow is out of square with the nocking point about 1/8" low.

I started off with my arrow level right in the middle of the berger holes. (previous setup was at the top of the holes) Ive now worked my nocking point up higher with no luck.

Any ideas or advise?

 

[Rob5589]

 

[madkaw284]

If you’re not getting much change with moving your nocking point or rest up or down than it’s more likely a timing issue. Do you have access to a press and/or draw board?


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[Beendare]

Not enough info for me....

There is a whole flow chart for tuning.....and to skip steps gives you false readings.

Are you shooting paper at 6', 6 yds or 20yds? I shoot all 3. A nok high could indicate rest contact...always check that before going to other tuning steps.

The other general advice I can tell you is paper tuning FP's is only half way there for a bowhunter. You want to shoot BH's for groups at longer ranges and get those shooting together to completely tune. The BH tuning tells you if the arrow is coming out of your bow slightly cocked.

Another tuning option to paper is bare shaft tuning....and usually when you can shoot a bare shaft with fletched arrows at 20 yds or so...your BH's will be dead on.


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[5MilesBack]

A nok high could indicate rest contact...always check that before going to other tuning steps.

This ^^^^^. You said your nock point is already low but you're getting a high tear. I'd look for some fletching contact that's kicking the back of the arrow up. And with a low nocking point that's even more possible.

 

[4ester]

Except he said he has a high tear with a bare shaft so it’s not fletching contact.


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[Planopurist]

Try rotating your nock a quarter turn at a time until the tear clears up?


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[Planopurist]

Try rotating your nock a quarter turn at a time until the tear clears up?


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If, you’re using the same bare shaft repeatedly.


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[doncarpenter]

Like madkaw284 said, I would suspect a timing issue if your already nocking low. Check your tiller tune as well.

If I have a tuning issue that won't resolve no matter what I do, I always go back to the beginning. Take off the nocking points and D-loop. Check the specs, axle to axle, brace height, bottom out the limbs and check for cam lean.

Then start from square one. Nock level. Put the D-loop back on. Before you shoot it check the timing and draw weight. If the timing is off adjust as necessary. If the draw weight is near or over the advertised weight, you're good. If it's light, you will need to make adjustments.

If you don't have a draw board, make one, they are an invaluable tool for working on your own equipment. You can put on together for about $30 bucks or less if you have some stuff already.

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[JoeDirt]

Not enough info for me....

There is a whole flow chart for tuning.....and to skip steps gives you false readings.

Are you shooting paper at 6', 6 yds or 20yds? I shoot all 3. A nok high could indicate rest contact...always check that before going to other tuning steps.

The other general advice I can tell you is paper tuning FP's is only half way there for a bowhunter. You want to shoot BH's for groups at longer ranges and get those shooting together to completely tune. The BH tuning tells you if the arrow is coming out of your bow slightly cocked.

Another tuning option to paper is bare shaft tuning....and usually when you can shoot a bare shaft with fletched arrows at 20 yds or so...your BH's will be dead on.


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I was getting shelf contact with my initial setup with the arrow in the middle of the berger holes. Now the bottom of the arrow is in the middle of the berger holes and everything seems to clear. Not sure if I should raise the arrow to the top of the berger holes like it was before I mounted my rest?

I shot 5', 10' and 15' fletched and bare shaft, The fleched was paper tuned but bare shaft was pretty bad at 10'-15. I know form plays a big part in this, I feel I was executing a good shot.

 

[JoeDirt]

Like madkaw284 said, I would suspect a timing issue if your already nocking low. Check your tiller tune as well.

If I have a tuning issue that won't resolve no matter what I do, I always go back to the beginning. Take off the nocking points and D-loop. Check the specs, axle to axle, brace height, bottom out the limbs and check for cam lean.

Then start from square one. Nock level. Put the D-loop back on. Before you shoot it check the timing and draw weight. If the timing is off adjust as necessary. If the draw weight is near or over the advertised weight, you're good. If it's light, you will need to make adjustments.

If you don't have a draw board, make one, they are an invaluable tool for working on your own equipment. You can put on together for about $30 bucks or less if you have some stuff already.

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I think I need to make a draw board!

Where do you start on nock height? I keep reading dead center through the berger holes but the rest is all the way back and down to clear the shelf?

 

[doncarpenter]

I think I need to make a draw board!

Where do you start on nock height? I keep reading dead center through the berger holes but the rest is all the way back and down to clear the shelf?

Can you take a picture of your rest and post it? I think some pictures will let us help you better. If you have a Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro or Trinity you can adjust the height of the launcher blade by adjusting the two screws under the rest body.

I like to start all the bows I work on with the center of the arrow running through the center of the Berger hole and then go from there. The arrow should be 90 degree from the string. Some manufacturers recommend different heights and a little research can go a long way. You can also call customer service of most manufacturers to get some good info.

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[5MilesBack]

.

I was getting shelf contact with my initial setup with the arrow in the middle of the berger holes. Now the bottom of the arrow is in the middle of the berger holes and everything seems to clear. Not sure if I should raise the arrow to the top of the berger holes like it was before I mounted my rest?

On my PSE the distance from the bottom of the berger holes to the shelf is only .5". I use a QAD HDX with the launcher laying flat on the shelf. So clearance is only maybe .25" from the bottom of the berger holes to the top of the launcher. Larger vanes will absolutely hit my launcher in that setup. So I have to set my arrow up so the bottom is at least above the middle of the berger hole.

I'd reset everything to the way you had it before when you were getting good flight.

 

[Billy Goat]

How did you time your rest?

I'd setup a draw board and check to see exactly when your rest is all the way up, and where it starts to drop away. Bareshaft you shouldn't have clearance issues bit you probably don't have any give in your rest and its causing the arrow to rebound just slightly.

That's my guess anyway. If not that I'd guess it's cam timing is slightly off.

 

[JoeDirt]

Can you take a picture of your rest and post it? I think some pictures will let us help you better. If you have a Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro or Trinity you can adjust the height of the launcher blade by adjusting the two screws under the rest body.

I like to start all the bows I work on with the center of the arrow running through the center of the Berger hole and then go from there. The arrow should be 90 degree from the string. Some manufacturers recommend different heights and a little research can go a long way. You can also call customer service of most manufacturers to get some good info.

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Hybrid hunter pro. The rest would still hit the shelf if I moved it all the way forward. In the picture the arrow is level to the string!

 

[doncarpenter]

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Assuming the second picture is level with the arrow shelf it looks like your initial nocking point is high. A bow square would be really helpful for you.

I know your new to working on your own equipment, but what exactly do you have for tools? A press? Nocking point and D-loop material?

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[JoeDirt]

How did you time your rest?

I'd setup a draw board and check to see exactly when your rest is all the way up, and where it starts to drop away. Bareshaft you shouldn't have clearance issues bit you probably don't have any give in your rest and its causing the arrow to rebound just slightly.

That's my guess anyway. If not that I'd guess it's cam timing is slightly off.

It a limb driven rest not much to time other than cord tension. It moves out of the way quicker than my old cable driven rest. This one drops about halfway down the draw cycle.

 

[JoeDirt]

Assuming the second picture is level with the arrow shelf it looks like your initial nocking point is high. A bow square would be really helpful for you.

I know your new to working on your own equipment, but what exactly do you have for tools? A press? Nocking point and D-loop material?

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I dont have much! Im just buying what I need when I come across the need for it. I squared the arrow to the string with a regular machinist square.

I just have a nocking square right now

 

[doncarpenter]

I dont have much! Im just buying what I need when I come across the need for it. I squared the arrow to the string with a regular machinist square.

I just have a nocking square right now

Ok, I would recommend getting some tools if you're gonna get into being an at home bow mechanic. It will pay off in the long run.

After looking at the pictures more, I think you could lower your rest by about a 1/4" and then tie the nocking pointvsquare to the string from there. I looked up some old BTX 31 threads on Archery Talk and they all ran the arrow through the center of the Berger hole.

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[JoeDirt]

Ok, I would recommend getting some tools if you're gonna get into being an at home bow mechanic. It will pay off in the long run.

After looking at the pictures more, I think you could lower your rest by about a 1/4" and then tie the nocking pointvsquare to the string from there. I looked up some old BTX 31 threads on Archery Talk and they all ran the arrow through the center of the Berger hole.

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I will pick up some more tools! Im not afraid to spend some money there.

So if I lower it to dead center of the berger holes I get string contact from the drive cables on the vanes. The roller guard is pretty high. The shop I bought it from might have ran it high for that reason?

Bowtech is local also, I might give them a ring tomorrow and see that they have to say.