Bow tuning questions

[doncarpenter]

I will pick up some more tools! Im not afraid to spend some money there.

So if I lower it to dead center of the berger holes I get string contact from the drive cables on the vanes. The roller guard is pretty high. The shop I bought it from might have ran it high for that reason?

Bowtech is local also, I might give them a ring tomorrow and see that they have to say.

Moving the rest that high because of fletching contact is lipstick on a pig. It's causing one problem to solve another. You might have to run a different vane configuration or move your cock vane to a different position if you're running a 3 fletch.

What arrow and flecthing are you using?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

[Oldpuck]

I am probably missing something here and may sound futile but have you considered starting over from the beginning? I am guessing you had some progress with adjustments you were making just not enough to get rid of the tear. Rest adjustment should have fixed that. If it didn’t then adding or subtracting twists from your yoke might solve it. Lancaster Archery (and some others have a fe decent you tube videos on bare shaft and paper tuning

 

[J.G.]

I don’t mean to hijack your thread as I think we could both benefit, does anyone have plans for a simple, inexpensive, and compact draw board they could share?
Thanks
Jim


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Beendare]

Op, don is giving excellent advice... this process will pay you dividends in the future.

Many draw board designs on the DIY section of AT- cheap easy.

 

[camping1601]

My .02 I owned a BTX-31 at 70#-29'' and here's how I set mine up.
Set your rest height so the arrow is centered in the top of the berger hole and nock level.
Set your draw stops to hit together by you drawing the bow and not with a draw board. (this isn't that easy)
If memory serves me right I ended up with a nock just out of level to get perfect bare shaft bullet holes.

 

[camping1601]

Mine was extremely sensitive to cam timing. Even a half twist would make a big difference for me.

 

[Billy Goat]

It a limb driven rest not much to time other than cord tension. It moves out of the way quicker than my old cable driven rest. This one drops about halfway down the draw cycle.

Might be the case. However limb placement has a lot to do with the speed and where they react.

My cable driven drop away rests I normally setup to have them start to drop once the arrow moves 1.5" or so forward.

On a limb driven rest it will get out of the way but keep in mind that arrow needs to have some cushion on the rest. If the rest is stuff for half the time the arrow is still on the string, that arrow is flexing from the string forces on it and rebounding off of a hard rest. So I still try to setup a limb driven rest to drop away quickly. Generally not much longer up than a cable drop away, it's just nice that you know the limb is going to be snapping it down rather than a tiny spring.

 

[JoeDirt]

Moving the rest that high because of fletching contact is lipstick on a pig. It's causing one problem to solve another. You might have to run a different vane configuration or move your cock vane to a different position if you're running a 3 fletch.

What arrow and flecthing are you using?

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Im using the standard 3 fletch standard 2" Blazer vanes, I recently bought some new arrows with 3 AAE Max Stealth vanes.

I called Bowtech they said to set up the bottom of the arrow to run through the middle of the berger holes.

 

[JoeDirt]

Might be the case. However limb placement has a lot to do with the speed and where they react.

My cable driven drop away rests I normally setup to have them start to drop once the arrow moves 1.5" or so forward.

On a limb driven rest it will get out of the way but keep in mind that arrow needs to have some cushion on the rest. If the rest is stuff for half the time the arrow is still on the string, that arrow is flexing from the string forces on it and rebounding off of a hard rest. So I still try to setup a limb driven rest to drop away quickly. Generally not much longer up than a cable drop away, it's just nice that you know the limb is going to be snapping it down rather than a tiny spring.

The limbs are fairly parallel on my bow I moved the cable around and didn't notice much change in how the rest reacted? Seems most tied the cable back by the axle so that's that I did?

 

[JoeDirt]

I don’t mean to hijack your thread as I think we could both benefit, does anyone have plans for a simple, inexpensive, and compact draw board they could share?
Thanks
Jim


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hijack away! I was watching some youtube videos saw Dudley using a homemade draw board on a 2x6 with what looked like a boat winch. I will post pictures when I make one!

 

[Brokehope2hunt]

Good info!

 

[IN_Varmntr]

The BTX-31 cams have the micro-sync dial to finely adjust your timing. Use of the dial seemed to accelerate serving wear for me, but it is at least another option for you to see if dialing it will change things for you then you can go from there.

My BTX-31 was very sensitive to grip changes. It required a grip that I just couldn't get used to which is why I got rid of it.

That said, I also experienced decent results with a slightly nock high setup with the bottom of the arrow at Berger hole centerline. You can't change too much at once or you will be chasing your tail in circles.

 

[Billy Goat]

The limbs are fairly parallel on my bow I moved the cable around and didn't notice much change in how the rest reacted? Seems most tied the cable back by the axle so that's that I did?

Wether they are parallel or not doesn't matter much. Limbs are going to have the most movement at the axle. A lot of limb movement is decided by cam shape and size.

If you have enough movement in your limbs closer to your limb pockets it will start to activate the drop sooner than being at the axle. I'd check everything on a drawboard to see what's happening.