Broadheads for Elk?

Steve

FNG
Joined
May 10, 2015
Location
PA
I'm looking for a cut on contact broadhead that flys true out to extended ranges. I'm currently shooting magnus stingers, but they tend to plane to the right on me. Thanks
 
can't go wrong with a vpa head. Lodged one in this fellas left femur after passing through vitals in a hard quartering towards shot..100gr non vented
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Almost any good broadhead will fly true. You can check your arrows / heads on a spinner to make sure they're not wobbling, but if you're getting an issue with planing - it's probably an issue with your bow tune/setup or your form.

With that said - there are some heads that are more forgiving of a tune or a form issue, especially at longer ranges. The most forgiving fixed blade I've tried so far is the Wac 'Em, followed by the Solid, followed by Shuttle-T (Not all C-O-C heads though)

VPAs are one of the strongest designed heads I've seen, easy to sharpen, but they've been a little less forgiving for me. Going to re-tune my entire setup this year and see if I can get them flying well.
 
I've found Ramcats to fly exceptionally well to long range.they cut a wicked hole and penetrate well. Every elk I've shot with them has died in less than 5 seconds
 
If your broad head is hitting to the right of your field point, you may be underspined. I know that's not what you said exactly, so if you are stacking them at 20, and then planing right at greater distances then it is probably something else.
 
I would change up the fletching first and see if you can overcome the planing that way. I'd also try some yoke tuning if your bow has a yoke before giving up on the Stingers.
 
I'm a fan of NAP killzones, if you're looking at mechanical broadheads, they're a winner.

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I had the same issue with Stingers years ago. I've got them all still in the same package. I believe in tuning to correct arrow flight and not just adjusting my sights to match broadheads. When I tried them I was taking reasonable steps and getting good flight out of other heads (Thunderheads and Iron Heads at the time) but I couldn't get good flight from them.
 
Sorry I should of given more info about my setup. I'm Shooting a Halon 6 set at about 72 lbs and 28" draw with Easton axis fmj 340 spline and blazer vanes. I saved 6 arrows just for my broadheads. With my field points I stack them at 30 yds but with the broadheads they all fly about 3 inches right and an inch or so high. The farther back I go the farther right they tend to fly. I practice regularly out to 100 yds and don't have an issue with my field points. So I don't think it would be a spline or form issue. This is the first year I tried these broadheads so I thought that could be my issue. Thanks for any advice.
 
Spine could still be a factor in that broadheads do tend to apply a different load to an arrow. I would lean more to the thought that your bow isn't tuned correctly though.
 
I'd lean towards the spine as the problem as the Halon is a pretty fast bow. I have trouble tuning 330 injexions with one insert out of a Hoyt Nitrum unless I keep it under 67 pounds but my draw is 29 1/4.

On my Turbo at 64 pounds I needed 300 spine with a 50 grain insert.
 
Spine issues don't show up very much with field points unless you WAY underspined. If your within a spine of what you should be (like someone shooting a 400 when they should be shooting a 340) you won't notice any problems until you throw a broadhead on the end.
 
Could be spine, but could equally be that your bow is a little out of tune.

Have you tried lowering your poundage to see if anything changes? That would rule out or confirm spine.

Have you tried any form of broadhead tuning - using either yokes or rest movement? If it's not spine, I bet that cleans it up...
 
Knock the arrow grab it by the shafts and twist it counter clockwise till you feel the insert click inside the shaft it'll move the poi to the left changes the plane on the arrow i do it to all the fixed heads when I have to shoot them

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Knock the arrow grab it by the shafts and twist it counter clockwise till you feel the insert click inside the shaft it'll move the poi to the left changes the plane on the arrow i do it to all the fixed heads when I have to shoot them

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I have no idea what this means? How are you moving the insert? Are you not gluing them in? Do you mean nock tuning?


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