I picked up one of these in 7mm rem mag.
Very light, nice stock, nice trigger, nice mag (really long)
The bolt feels a little more sloppy than other coopers I have handled but I think it's mainly because of the light weight.
Anyway, when I got it I took off the warne bases in installed some Talley 30MM lows and a Huskemaw 4-16 I had in the cabinet.
I took it to the range with some new nosler brass loaded up with Retumbo and 180 vld bullets. Also some old factory rounds I found in the closet.
After doing a quick break in with the factory rounds and a couple cleanings I started shooting the new 180 vld loads with 68 grains of retumbo and varying seating depths .010, .020, .030 and .040 jump.
These were the results
I also had a few rounds loaded up at .010 jump and varying powder charges from 70-72 grains in .5 increments
The bullets were seated to .030 with a portable hand press and I started a round robin charge weight test.
After the first two shots from each charge I started to get erratic shots for the third round of each group.
So, I'm thinking okay, maybe retumbo is too slow and not burning completely in the 24" barrel.
I get home and clean the barrel which had lots of powder fouling and a little copper.
A day later I received some Berger 175 Elite Hunter so I thought I would load those over H1000 thinking it would be a little faster powder and may be better in the short barrel.
I took those to the range and my POI was all over the place so I am thinking maybe it wasn't powder fouling after all because this is acting like a scope issue. At least my brass is all formed now but unfortunately I don't really have any usable data except a seating depth for the 180 vld.
When I got home I figured I would mount a known accurate scope and see if that corrects the problem.
So I remove the Huskemaw and while it's off I check the base screws on the talleys. Both the screws in the front base were completely loose. Great, not a scope problem after all.
When I installed the bases I cleaned the screws and the holes on the rifle and applied a little loctite on the threads then torqued to 25 in lbs. But, the rifle and the bases were very cold from being in the garage and I don't think the loctite had a chance to dry.
So, re applied some loctite, torqued the screws to 35 in lbs then put it inside over night after warming everything by the fire place for a while.
During that time I was measuring the 175 Elite Hunter bullets and thought maybe I would load some over RL26 in the now formed brass.
No data at all on this combo but knowing RL26 is a little faster than H1000 and slower than H4831 SC I decided to load some up at 65.6, 66, 66.4, 66.8 and 67.2 with 215 primers and the 175 EH's at .015 jump.
After seeing the first 4 loads I decided to shoot the 67.2 loads over the Magnetospeed to see what kind of velocity I was getting.
The three rounds at 67.2 averaged 2988 with an ES of 16
I loaded up 20 rounds at 66.4 to get a 200 yard zero then shoot a few at longer distances and also chrono to see how it holds up.
So far I am liking the rifle and recoil is very manageable.
Rifle, scope, scope mounts and vortex level weigh in at 7 lbs, 6 oz.
I will report back next week after shooting the RL26 loads out further.
Also going to form 50 more pieces of brass with 168 Classic Hunters using RL26, H1000 and Retumbo now that I am confident nothing is loose.
Hope this is helpful to someone.