DIY 7x14 enclosed trailer for camping

Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
539
Location
Rigby, Idaho
A few pictures of my mods so far

Spray in Raptor truck bed liner

6DB55472-D18B-4EA8-82FF-444B3CE46A7B.jpeg

Flipped the axels for more clearance.
Before
F1396EFD-1E17-404C-A64D-77EAED1646D3.jpeg

After

F3462BFF-FDD7-4F83-A42C-312D717A4AF9.jpeg
03126E8C-45FF-4F00-B68F-054B4945CEDC.jpeg
Added new cushioned equalizer.
D931E973-42F1-44DD-AC0B-3998F4121BC1.jpeg
It’s getting there. A few more mods planned. Adding E-track to the walls, some interior lights, a battery box and a solar charger.

Have not decided if I am going to paint the rest of the walls or not.

Also, found some butterfly vents. However, they do not close air tight. May need to do a mod on those.
 
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22lr

WKR
Joined
Apr 14, 2020
Messages
746
Location
AK
I was going this route on our 6x12 but decided to get a full up camper to be a bit more kid friendly. But pretty easy to do a few simple mods.

I'm a huge fan of the fantastic vent fans. With a cover you can run them on the road and they generate a massive volume of air. We use 2, 1 up front and 1 in the rear. The one up front is pulling air and one in back is pushing. It will create a noticeable breeze in the camper with everything else buttoned up. Run a good cover and you don't have to worry about rain or driving with the vents cracked to help as well (even if the fans are shut off). They are just around $200 apiece so a little pricey... Take the vents off and paint the inside black, if you want to help reduce light. If you want more natural light, just leave them white.

Also, a window in the side door is super easy and you dont have to worry about cutting into a support. We replaced a window on our camper door with one that has an internal blackout curtain, and its straight up legit.
 
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
608
A few pictures of my mods so far

Spray in Raptor truck bed liner

View attachment 184332

Flipped the axels for more clearance.
Before
View attachment 184334

After

View attachment 184336
View attachment 184337
Added new cushioned equalizer.
View attachment 184338
It’s getting there. A few more mods planned. Adding E-track to the walls, some interior lights, a battery box and a solar charger.

Have not decided if I am going to paint the rest of the walls or not.

Also, found some butterfly vents. However, they do not close air tight. May need to do a mod on those.
We are looking into this for this next year and beyond. Have you completed anymore updates? Looks great!
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
539
Location
Rigby, Idaho
We are looking into this for this next year and beyond. Have you completed anymore updates? Looks great!
I've installed E track on the walls, in the process of putting 4 interior led lights. Got a battery box with a 30 amp battery. Solar charger, but still can't decide if I am hard mounting it to the roof or just keeping it loose so I can just put it out when needed. Also installed some fold down stairs as the step up (or step down at 2 am when nature calls) after the axel flip was pretty significant. Oh and a carbon monoxide detector.

The set up worked great during archery elk. I had a full size cot set up in it, comfortable camp chair and my buddy heater.
 

bear run

FNG
Joined
May 8, 2018
Messages
16
Location
MI
Have looked into insulation in the walls, floor , ceiling? I do not like propane heat. Maybe go with a harbor freight generator for outside use and electric heater with fan.
 

Deezly

FNG
Joined
Sep 22, 2020
Messages
5
Went in with some buddies and bought this trailer for going out west. It was already setup about perfect, all we added was some new flooring, some lights, and a boot warmer over the propane heater. Also tore out the corner bathroom and opened it up for storage and a place for an electric heater to sit. Do not have any updated pictures.
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This is a nice little setup!
 
Joined
Dec 14, 2018
Messages
606
This is a nice little setup!
Thank you! Used it for the first time this year and it was quite the step up from a wall tent! Took about 1.5 hrs to load up completely. Super handy for moving areas, but luckily we didn't have to this go around.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

WKR

WKR
Joined
Jun 14, 2019
Messages
1,506
I'm building one right now. So far I've got the walls insulated, one window put in, and the floor done. Bought a mattress that I'll build a fold down frame for. It's a work in progress but I've taken it on one hunt so far and it sure beats sleeping in a tent.
 

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j33

WKR
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
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Location
Calgary, AB
Any insulation properties in that floor? Just picked up a new 7x14. Insulated roof with 1" foam only so far, slept in it a few nights so far even woke up to 5" of snow one AM. Walls are uninsulated, but with plywood and an air gap I honestly don't think I will tear it up to insulate. Lots of heat loss on the floor IMO, that's where bang for buck is along with roof.
 
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
524
Recently modified a 6x10 single axle. Sold an older camper to pay for it. I insulated the walls and ceiling, and would ideally do the floor. However, I’m not sure how to do that without losing some headspace. I also added a roof vent, and I added a deadbolt and door handle for the side door. I did that instead of adding the rv style door. I also added d rings for strapping down cargo. To finish the floor, I put down some behr deck paint. It’s helped keep the floor clean and dry. Finally, I built one fold down rack with support legs, bolted onto the frame from the side. I use a cot below that if needing to sleep two people. Cot is high enough off the floor to put a storage crate under, so I still have lots of stowage with the cot in use. So far, it works fine.
751ECDDA-4880-41A7-9EDE-488F01988A82.jpeg635847F2-D174-48D3-A1D8-D1F24A49232A.jpeg
 
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WKR

WKR
Joined
Jun 14, 2019
Messages
1,506
Any insulation properties in that floor? Just picked up a new 7x14. Insulated roof with 1" foam only so far, slept in it a few nights so far even woke up to 5" of snow one AM. Walls are uninsulated, but with plywood and an air gap I honestly don't think I will tear it up to insulate. Lots of heat loss on the floor IMO, that's where bang for buck is along with roof.
I used a foam underlayment between the plywood sub floor and the vinyl.
We will see how well it works in the cold. Last time I took it out it only got down to the low 30's.
 
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CO-AJ

WKR
Joined
Apr 23, 2020
Messages
337
Location
Colorado
For the floor insulation, what about covering on the outside as opposed to inside? Get some sheets of the plastic stuff (like they make yardsigns out of) and attach it to the frame with a strong adhesive. You could even adhesive a 1" think styrofoam to the plastic first then adhere the entire thing to the frame. This way you would not loose any headroom inside. Maybe look to the RV industry for how they enclose the bottom of their trailers.
 
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
2,076
Location
Idaho
Recently modified a 6x10 single axle. Sold an older camper to pay for it. I insulated the walls and ceiling, and would ideally do the floor. However, I’m not sure how to do that without losing some headspace. I also added a roof vent, and I added a deadbolt and door handle for the side door. I did that instead of adding the rv style door. I also added d rings for strapping down cargo. To finish the floor, I put down some behr deck paint. It’s helped keep the floor clean and dry. Finally, I built one fold down rack with support legs, bolted onto the frame from the side. I use a cot below that if needing to sleep two people. Cot is high enough off the floor to put a storage crate under, so I still have lots of stowage with the cot in use. So far, it works fine.
View attachment 225363View attachment 225364
How did your handle on the side door work? I've been wanting to do one on mine as well.
 
Joined
Jul 21, 2019
Messages
524
How did your handle on the side door work? I've been wanting to do one on mine as well.
It works but it’s not perfect. The rv style door would certainly be most ideal, but the deadbolt works. I used a larger dead bolt that way I could tap into the frame of the trailer not just the cheap wood. Had to grind down the face of the bolt so it could clear the door threshold when opening and closing the door.
 
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
2,076
Location
Idaho
It works but it’s not perfect. The rv style door would certainly be most ideal, but the deadbolt works. I used a larger dead bolt that way I could tap into the frame of the trailer not just the cheap wood. Had to grind down the face of the bolt so it could clear the door threshold when opening and closing the door.
Thanks Squatch!
 

jaytaylor

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Sep 8, 2020
Messages
107
This is the route I’m taking this winter. We just sold our rPod, which was our 3rd camper, to go this route. These campers all fall apart on the roads we travel on (forest service roads). Going to get a 7x14 or 16 so we can sleep crossways on bunks of some sort. I also want to be able to use as a cargo trailer when necessary. Plan on fully insulating.
 

Stalker69

WKR
Joined
Apr 12, 2019
Messages
1,741
I want to do this but with one big enough I could haul my side by side. Fold up beds ( so utv would still fit, mini split for heat and a/c ( when 110v is available) Propane stove, and space heater ( for when 110v is not available) , place for my chest freezer( small generator) , sink and small water tank. I know in my head what I want it to look like, but I also know it’s one of those things that I wouldn’t use but once or twice a year. And don’t really have a place to park it, that it would not be in the way most the time.
 
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