Glock 20 modifications for backcountry carry

[dla]

It appears Glock's official website would differ. .

Please show me and I'll be quiet. The only official statement from Glock is to NOT use reloaded ammunition. The Q&A is "recommendations" - not prohibitions.

 

[MallardSX2]

I have shot thousands of reloads through my glock 19 gen 4. Very hot 9mm longshot loads actually with cast powder coated bullets. I wouldnt be scared to empty that gun on a bear. It would be in big trouble lol

 

[mcseal2]

Thanks everyone. I'm going to order a KKM barrel in the standard barrel length and a Glock 20 to start with. I'm still looking at sights. I think I'm going to get something similar to the factory night sights on my Sig handguns since I'm used to them. A simple 3 dot tritium sight system. I already have a light for the rail I keep on the Sig 226 by my bed. I might take it along on the AK hunts since it doesn't weigh much and put it on at night in camp. It goes on finger tight in seconds. I don't plan to carry it in a holster with the light.

For those putting in the heavier springs and stainless guide rod, do you find that the gun runs both lighter practice ammo and the heavy loads fine? Do you have to change anything for light loads compared to your woods carry loads?

Also do you have much difference in point of impact between the 180 and the 200-230gr loads?

I'm thinking I should keep this as simple as possible. Do you all think it would be a bad idea to just use 200gr bullets for everything? I see CCI has their cheaper Blazer line in a 200gr FMJ, and Double Tap has a 200gr hardcast load that has one of the highest energy ratings at 750ft/lbs from the muzzle of a Glock 20. Maybe if the gun works with me I could have a practice and field load that shoot very similar going that route. Is there really much penetration difference between the 200 and 220?

 

[dla]

Sometimes I wonder if Lone Wolf and KKM employees don't infiltrate forums to convince noobs that a Glock "needs" a different barrel.
I sure wouldn't buy a Glock if it wouldn't work without a barrel swap - buy a Springfield instead.

 

[2Stamp]

I'd look at a KKM if I wanted a comp. In fact I have one on a G19. Necessary? no. But are they effective and reducing recoil and getting back on target a bit quicker? yes. I haven't shot a G20 (I'd like to), but I suspect a comp can tame it a little if needed (if that's your thing).

 

[mcseal2]

Maybe it doesn't need a different barrel, but I figure it's good insurance. I don't want to take chances so I'd rather buy it and know I'm good. I considered the Springfield too, but after shooting both the Glock trigger is better to me. The Glock is also a little lighter.

 

[dla]

Maybe it doesn't need a different barrel, but I figure it's good insurance. I don't want to take chances so I'd rather buy it and know I'm good. I considered the Springfield too, but after shooting both the Glock trigger is better to me. The Glock is also a little lighter.

So you are reacting to a forum fable? Sad.
I can't argue the trigger as they are different.
Will it be lighter after you add the stainless guide rod (which accomplishes nothing)?

 

[awbowhunter]

I know someone's already said it, but I would never play around with a trigger I want to trust my life with. Glocks are super reliable. I want it to go bang!....EVERY time. JMO

Maybe a different barrel.

Check out truglo TFX pro sights. I have them on three guns now and love them. Tritium and fiber optic...best of both worlds.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[mcseal2]

So you are reacting to a forum fable? Sad.
I can't argue the trigger as they are different.
Will it be lighter after you add the stainless guide rod (which accomplishes nothing)?

It might be a fable, I am asking questions because I'm new to Glock. I know I've read a lot of places other than here that the KKM barrels have more support around the chamber for the heavy loads, plus the non polygonal rifling. Do I need any of that? Heck if I know. I do know that I want the gun to be accurate and reliable. I hope to never shoot at anything living with it, but I want it to perform if it needs to. Lots of people seem to think this upgrade is a good idea and since I don't know any of you guys personally I'm going to go with the numbers. Nothing against you and not saying you are wrong. I am buying this gun as insurance and if an aftermarket barrel can eliminate a couple potential issues I'm willing to buy one as extra insurance.

 

[Wrench]

If the glock had more chamber support, I'd not have run the kkm. After picking up my once fire starline cases....I was terrified. My suggestion has zero to do with cut or broached vs polygon.....it's all about a gun pushing big bullets hard without concerns of failure.

I shoot 200gr double tap hardcast and xtp's over Longshot. I have thousands of 38-40 hardcast 180gr pills through my 10 as well. I like the wide meplat bullets.

 

[Fatcamp]

If the glock had more chamber support, I'd not have run the kkm. After picking up my once fire starline cases....I was terrified. My suggestion has zero to do with cut or broached vs polygon.....it's all about a gun pushing big bullets hard without concerns of failure.

I shoot 200gr double tap hardcast and xtp's over Longshot. I have thousands of 38-40 hardcast 180gr pills through my 10 as well. I like the wide meplat bullets.

So was it reliable with the factory barrel? If you were having malfunctions what kinds?

And to others, what types of malfunctions were you having with factory barrels that led you to changing?

 

[doverpack12]

It might be a fable, I am asking questions because I'm new to Glock. I know I've read a lot of places other than here that the KKM barrels have more support around the chamber for the heavy loads, plus the non polygonal rifling. Do I need any of that? Heck if I know. I do know that I want the gun to be accurate and reliable. I hope to never shoot at anything living with it, but I want it to perform if it needs to. Lots of people seem to think this upgrade is a good idea and since I don't know any of you guys personally I'm going to go with the numbers. Nothing against you and not saying you are wrong. I am buying this gun as insurance and if an aftermarket barrel can eliminate a couple potential issues I'm willing to buy one as extra insurance.

The factory Glock barrel is designed to be as reliable as you can get. Changing to ANYTHING other than the factory barrel is only going to decrease the reliability. If insurance is what you want then stick with the factory barrel, IT WILL GO BANG when you squeeze the trigger and the next round will chamber. Tighter more supported chambers are easier on brass but they are also more finicky to get reliable feeding especially with wide meplat hardcast bullets. I reload my brass from my factory barrel and just send it through a bulge buster prior to loading. Hardcast defense reloads are reserved for new brass only, and I use all my once fired and on brass for practice ammo. I do believe the 22 lb spring and SS guide rod are a good choice and that is what I run. The factory 17 lb spring and plastic guide rod have alot of flex and when shooting full power loads the slide really comes back fast.

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

Yeh, I could never understand why people need to change the barrel on a Glock when the Glocks became famous for working under all conditions. Just go with the stock stuff and maybe change the sights so you can aim better at night.

I love my Glock 20 and have absolutely no intention of changing anything on it.

 

[Wrench]

So was it reliable with the factory barrel? If you were having malfunctions what kinds?

And to others, what types of malfunctions were you having with factory barrels that led you to changing?

When your really hard to get brass has a sharp line and looks like it's blowing a bubble....you don't feel good. When you cut the case open through the bulge and see that the case stretched to the point where it's only about .009" thick....you realize that you're playing with fire.

If you shoot off the shelf low pressure 10mm ammo, the stock everything is fine. If you shoot ammo in that 37,500psi area....you're playing with fire.

Case bulge is fine until you get a reload or a piece of bad brass.

I reload several thousand rounds a year and will not risk injury because I needs to trust glock. I have enough rounds through mine to trust it.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Please show me and I'll be quiet. The only official statement from Glock is to NOT use reloaded ammunition. The Q&A is "recommendations" - not prohibitions.

He literally posted the page from glocks website. It says don’t shoot led bullets. Did you not see that?

 

[FlyingScot]

When your really hard to get brass has a sharp line and looks like it's blowing a bubble....you don't feel good. When you cut the case open through the bulge and see that the case stretched to the point where it's only about .009" thick....you realize that you're playing with fire.

If you shoot off the shelf low pressure 10mm ammo, the stock everything is fine. If you shoot ammo in that 37,500psi area....you're playing with fire.

Case bulge is fine until you get a reload or a piece of bad brass.

I reload several thousand rounds a year and will not risk injury because I needs to trust glock. I have enough rounds through mine to trust it.

Unsupported 10mm case, much like the Wu Tang Clan, ain't nothin to f%&k with.

 

[jmden]

Well under max pressure loads and anemic 10mm factory loads prob aren't an issue in the Glock barrel. However, I've seen in my own Glock barrel, with warm/hot reloads, that nasty bulge many are speaking to. Just a little disconcerting to the careful reloader...

 

[Wrench]

He literally posted the page from glocks website. It says don’t shoot led bullets. Did you not see that?

It makes 100% sense why glock wants no reloads.

You shoot a 37.5k load and run it through a bulge buster....reload it. It looks fine, BUT it's super thin right at the edge of the web/unsupported barrel area. The reload ignites and there's just not enough meat there to contain the pressure. The bulge erupts sending hot gasses right down onto the next round. Best case it just burns the shooter, worst it touches off the magazine.

 

[FlyingScot]

It makes 100% sense why glock wants no reloads.

You shoot a 37.5k load and run it through a bulge buster....reload it. It looks fine, BUT it's super thin right at the edge of the web/unsupported barrel area. The reload ignites and there's just not enough meat there to contain the pressure. The bulge erupts sending hot gasses right down onto the next round. Best case it just burns the shooter, worst it touches off the magazine.

90s/00s Glock is no stranger to this

I'm moderately bummed I couldn't find the photoshopped WWII german soldier throwing glocks for this

 

[thinhorn_AK]

It makes 100% sense why glock wants no reloads.

You shoot a 37.5k load and run it through a bulge buster....reload it. It looks fine, BUT it's super thin right at the edge of the web/unsupported barrel area. The reload ignites and there's just not enough meat there to contain the pressure. The bulge erupts sending hot gasses right down onto the next round. Best case it just burns the shooter, worst it touches off the magazine.

It dosent day reloads, it says led bullets.