Ideal Broadhead Groupings

[Tahoma]

Knowing that broadheads rarely group as well as field points, what is your personal tolerance for groupings when tuning your broadheads? I'm getting about a 6" diameter group per top at 40 yards, and while I would like this to be tighter, I am tempted to shift gears into 3D walks and stop tinkering with my bow in the weeks leading up to my hunt.

I'm just curious what others consider an acceptable broadhead group for their max range

 

[sndmn11]

Similar to the field points or not much bigger.

 

[Tilzbow]

Broadheads are definitely more sensitive to form issues and wind so groups can open up a little If either of those exist. That said I never shoot more than one broadhead at a spot inside 60 yards anymore since I’ve ruined too many arrows doing that so I can’t really answer your question on group size.

 

[87TT]

That wouldn't fly with me. Never good enough. I don't want much variance from field points at all.
And where did you hear that BH rarely group as well as field points? They are as said more influenced by form issues.

 

[Tahoma]

Right on thanks all for the sense check. Thats how I feel too, the main issue is that they are shooting left of my field points, and I've maxed out the clicks left on my rest. Maybe time for a yoke tune

 

[Bump79]

Right on thanks all for the sense check. Thats how I feel too, the main issue is that they are shooting left of my field points, and I've maxed out the clicks left on my rest. Maybe time for a yoke tune

Yep or check for vane clearance.

 

[87TT]

Spine? Also I found that some BH's just shoot different in my bow. QAD exodus always sdhot to the left and a bit high when FP's and Kudupoints shot together s did Slick Tricks.

 

[Tahoma]

Arrows are deep impact 300 spine with FOCOS inserts and 125 grain cutthroats 27.5" shaft- total arrow weight is ~565 grains at 70 lb 28" draw. It shoots pretty good through paper, bullet hole fletched with a very small right tear on bare shaft. I was thinking about trying some different broadheads

 

[Beendare]

Similar to the field points or not much bigger.

Yep....

 

[sndmn11]

Right on thanks all for the sense check. Thats how I feel too, the main issue is that they are shooting left of my field points, and I've maxed out the clicks left on my rest. Maybe time for a yoke tune

I'd go back to center shot and play with the yokes first.

If they are the two blade cutthroats, those should be the easy button. The three blade will give you the holy grail of a tuned bow.

Broadheads left of FP is a right tear...just what you said your bare shaft was tossing.

1)centershot
2)two twists add to right AND two take off left yoke(s).

 

[Tahoma]

I'll clarify that when I got the bow (used) it was one click away from being maxed out to the left, but it does shoot dimes with field points. Cut throats I am using are the three blade. I havent done a yoke tune but have seen the opposite posted elsewhere- that a the twist should go on the left yoke for a right tear?

 

[sndmn11]

I'll clarify that when I got the bow (used) it was one click away from being maxed out to the left, but it does shoot dimes with field points. Cut throats I am using are the three blade. I havent done a yoke tune but have seen the opposite posted elsewhere- that a the twist should go on the left yoke for a right tear?

The three blades are a little more needy of tuning that the two blade. They should be worth it though.

It's possible that I am wrong, but Dr. Google probably has the answer somewhere, and Gold Tip a chart searching for "yoke tune broadhead".

 

[Tilzbow]

I'll clarify that when I got the bow (used) it was one click away from being maxed out to the left, but it does shoot dimes with field points. Cut throats I am using are the three blade. I havent done a yoke tune but have seen the opposite posted elsewhere- that a the twist should go on the left yoke for a right tear?

Assuming you’re a right handed shooter, @sndmn11 is correct. Twist the right yoke and untwist the left yoke to correct for nock right (right tear, left FBBH impact). Two twists is a lot if your issue really starts showing up at 40 yards and I’d start with centering the rest and adding 1/2 twist to the right yoke and the opposite for the left. Don’t add more than 4 or 5 since that can induce too much cam lean and result in derailing the string.

 

[TheViking]

The three blades are a little more needy of tuning that the two blade. They should be worth it though.

It's possible that I am wrong, but Dr. Google probably has the answer somewhere, and Gold Tip a chart searching for "yoke tune broadhead".

Scroll down a bit, it's listed here.

Broadheads hitting left (but different)

I’ve noticed my broad heads have been slowly drifting left over the last few months. Tried moving my rest right and broadheads are still left of field points. I appreciate it may be the string stretching, though current string has been on for two years, but wouldn’t this make my arrows stiffer...

rokslide.com

 

[Tahoma]

Assuming you’re a right handed shooter, @sndmn11 is correct. Twist the right yoke and untwist the left yoke to correct for nock right (right tear, left FBBH impact). Two twists is a lot if your issue really starts showing up at 40 yards and I’d start with centering the rest and adding 1/2 twist to the right yoke and the opposite for the left. Don’t add more than 4 or 5 since that can induce too much cam lean and result in derailing the string.

Thanks for this. When you say half a twist, is that half on top and bottom right side?

 

[Billy Goat]

If your broadhead groups are much larger than your field points:

1) Spin test your broadheads (square end of arrow if necessary).
2) Mark your arrows and nock tune.
3) Get a atraighter shaft.
4) If wildly different you are probably too weak on spine or don't have enough drag on the back of the ahaft.

 

[Tilzbow]

Thanks for this. When you say half a twist, is that half on top and bottom right side?

Sorry, I can’t help with that. I‘m only familiar with tuning a Hoyt single yoke (top) bow,

 

[WoodDuck]

Definitely spin your arrows if you haven’t. If it doesn’t spin well it won’t shoot well.

Also, some broadheads come with a brass washer behind the blades. I have found that those can spin well, but once shot the blades can leave an indent in the washer and no longer spin true. Have only seen that with G5 strikers.

 

[TheViking]

Knowing that broadheads rarely group as well as field points, what is your personal tolerance for groupings when tuning your broadheads? I'm getting about a 6" diameter group per top at 40 yards, and while I would like this to be tighter, I am tempted to shift gears into 3D walks and stop tinkering with my bow in the weeks leading up to my hunt.

I'm just curious what others consider an acceptable broadhead group for their max range

What are your 40 yard field points groups like?

What broadhead? What vanes?

 

[tdoublev]

Agree with the previous advice. Your order of operations should be to set the center shot, adjust yokes to get them grouping as close as possible (or as close to a bullet hole through paper as you can), and then micro adjust the rest last. If you do that and still see a variance, then go through Billy Goat’s steps of checking the individual arrows. But a 6” variance at 40 yard sounds like the tune above all else. What is your field point group size at 40?

In static conditions, meaning not windy, your groups should be within a 1-2” variance from field points assuming you have a tight FP group to start.