Inherited 7 RUM-Where to start/WWYD?

[Carlin59]

Hi Guys,
A little background (warning: long post, but I appreciate any input). I inherited a Rem. 700 in 7mm RUM from a close cousin of mine that recently passed. He purchased it after coming back from Afghanistan with hopes of hunting "out West" with it, but never got the chance. I think this rifle may have been used for a single deer season in WI before he had an accident and became a quadriplegic. I would be shocked if it had more than 50 rounds through it. I moved to CO 9 years ago, and have a pet Rem. 700 in .300WM that I've used for everything from coyotes to elk, so I really don't "need" another big game rifle. However, I would like to honor my cousin and use his 7 RUM in 2020. Tags will be a mix of elk, deer, and antelope, with the primary tag being a WY deer tag in a ~10 pt unit.
Anyway, since I have a "go to" .300 WM that I'm confident with to 400 yards from field positions, I would like to set this 7 RUM as a longer-range option. Realistically, I would be happy to set this gun up to facilitate confident field shots to 500 yards. Some questions/thoughts I'd appreciate guidance/feedback on:
1. I don't handload (want to, but with a 4 month old daughter so not in the cards anytime soon). Am I crazy to take on a project gun in 7 RUM using factory ammo? (from a cost and availability perspective)
2. This project will be my first foray into the long range game. My goal is to get a basic long range setup, then make upgrades from there. For a scope, I purchased a basic Vortex Viper 6.5x20 44mm scope. I know there are better scopes on the market, but I figured this would be a good start. Any glaring issues with this scope that I should consider?
3. Stock. My cousin removed the factory synthetic stock, and replaced it with a thumb-hole laminate with a hard rubber recoil pad. I really want to replace this stock .The inletting was poor, and the factory BDL floorplate doesn't really release with this stock. I'd like something like the Magpul Hunter stocks, the MC3 stocks, Bell and Carlson, etc. What are your suggestions as a solid "starter" stock in the ~$300 range? I know this is a low budget, but I can't justify any more to the wife at this point.
4. Bolt. The bolt on this rifle comes with the lovely J-lock. This rules out some stock options that I liked (the Magpul hunter for example). Is it worth it to replace the bolt altogether, or is it not a big deal and I should just modify the stock of my choosing? It looks like for ~$70 I could get rid of the J-lock to allow more stock options, and gain quicker lock time. Worth it, or alternate suggestions?
5. Rings/Bases. I like the idea of a built in level. The Hawkins Hybrids look good: https://hawkinsprecision.com/scope-rings/ for a one piece system. Any feedback on this Iota system: https://iotaoutdoors.com/store/scope-mounts/nomadzl.html ? For a rail system, the Extreme Hardcore Gear look good: https://xtreme-hardcore-gear.myshop...ails/products/remington-700-long-action-0-moa , maybe paired with some Warne steel rings? Looking for bullet proof first, cost second. Weight is a low concern. I could be talked out of a built-in level, but these options seem comparable cost-wise to non-level options.
6. Trigger. I believe this gun was built in around 2002, so should be pre-X mark. I've heard great things about Triggertech, but is upgrading the trigger a need at this point or just a want? Would like to keep the factory trigger for now unless compelling argument against.
7. Ammo. As mentioned, this will be a factory ammo proposition for now. Not much for availability any more. I'm a big believer in monos (I've shot Hornady GMX exclusively in my .300WM for years, very happy with their performance). However, I thought this project might be a good opportunity to try Bergers. It looks like the 168gr VLD is available loaded through HSM, and offers great ballistics. Any suggestions on a starting point for factory loaded 7 RUM?
8. Places to shoot. I'm located in the Denver metro. Current plan for range time past 200 yards is BLM land in WY. Not comfortable shooting LR in CO National Forest Land due to people. Are there better options in CO for a reasonable fee that allow shooting out to 500 or 600 yards? The more range time the better obviously, and would love to learn of an option within ~2 hrs of Denver.
9. Any other thoughts/opinions/suggestions, I'm open to any words of advice at this point.
I've been intrigued by LR shooting (and by LR, my definition at this point is a very modest ~500 yards from field positions) for years, and inheriting a 7 RUM seems like a good starting point. However, since I don't have a large budget for this project, and honestly don't even know how accurate this barrel is at this time, I have some doubts about the project. If you've read this far, I really appreciate it, and also appreciate any advice or suggestions. One way or the other, I'll hunt with this rifle this fall and will hopefully fulfill my cousins dreams with it.
Best Regards, Cody

 

[Rob5589]

1. Not familiar but am guessing RUM ammo is $$
2. Started shooting long range comps with that same scope in 50mm. Glass is just ok but it was repeatable and had accurate movements. The turrets were not ideal but should be fine for hunting.
3. Bell and Carlson stocks are solid for the money. They were my first foray into aftermarket stocks and only needed some skim and lug bedding to make them solid.
4. Don't sweat the J bolt, super easy to swap out.
5. Big fan of Seekins but currently have Warne on my Tikkas, solid ring.
6. The factory trigger can be worked to be a nice trigger. I ran Timney on my match guns. Solid, easy to adjust, durable, priced well.

About all I got. Good luck!

 

[Apollo117]

I can't answer a lot of your questions, but I can suggest which B&C stock you should get. Take a look at the B&C M700 LA Ultralight Varmint stock. This stock is exclusive to Stocky's. It weights around two pounds and the barrel channel is wide enough for a Sendero contour in case you ever swap the barrel.

 

[ckleeves]

I think I would buy whatever factory ammo is available and throw a loaner scope on it and find out how it did before I started spending money on it. That 168 VLD could be real hit or miss in a RUM, it’s jumping a mile which may or may not be accurate.

If you find a factory load that’s reasonable accurate maybe just hunt with it the way it is for a season?

This is just my .02 but it sounds like it could become a bit of a money pit pretty quick, and at the end of the day You might have to reload or change the barrel to get consistent LR accuracy. It’s not a creedmoor where accurate factory ammo is easily found. It might shoot some variety of factory ammo good, but I would find it before I started making to many changes.

To become proficient at LR is also gonna cost a arm and a leg In ammo out of a 7rum and your going to want a brake on it (or at least I would)

Edited to add: if you want to dabble in LR shooting just buy a Tikka CTR and put a repeatable scope on it and hit the range. Kinda the easy button.




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[Bsnyder]

Colorado rifle club is a great range and I shoot there often, steel plates to 550 and 1k yard paper range as well I’ve always been tempted to own a 7 rum as I love my 300 just haven’t had the opportunity yet

 

[CoffeeGoat]

I keep meaning to try out camp Fickes(http://campfickes.com/index.php) which is out near Bailey, but haven't made it yet. They have a range to 600 meters.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

No way to tell what the gun will do until you shoot it, which you should do just on principal because it's a gun and you have it. I would shoot the current stock to see if it shows signs of being able to meet your accuracy goals before sinking $ into it. Also, the stock problems you described sound solvable with jb weld, sand paper, and a persistent attitude. If it does show potential, then:

Pick a different rail, EGW sometimes doesn't leave enough metal under the screw holes to hold tight with a heavy recoiling rifle. If you look for some posts by Broz you'll see that is one of the first things he asks about when a rifle has a wandering zero, and that guy knows his way around a long range rifle.

If you have to restock it, I would pick a stock with a full length aluminum bedding block and still skim bed it at your price point. The magpul stocks I've handled felt about as sturdy as a milk jug.

Before hunting with the gun i would replace the trigger. Too many stories of all Remington factory trigger designs causing unintended discharges for me to take them into a dynamic situation like the woods. Rifle basix and timney have been adequate for me, trigger techs do look sweet though.

J lock seems benign, but if it really bugs you go with the tubb speed lock system to get rid of it. This upgrade could impact your trigger choices.

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[Carlin59]

Really appreciate all of the responses, thanks! Thinking I'll focus on rail/rings as first priority, and start shooting it with the current stock to see what I have. Thanks for reading and offering advice! I'll update this thread as the project progresses.

 

[wind gypsy]

My opinion on 7 RUM is about the best thing out ballistically and about the worst to gain long range proficiency. I say it’s the worst because of high recoil, muzzle blast, ammo availability, ammo cost, and barrel life. Practice is expensive, unpleasant, and barrel wear can impact velocity/accuracy in short order. 4-500 yards is a relative chip shot in light winds with most centerfire cartridges with appropriate bullets, .223 included. I don’t see the rum being a meaningful upgrade to your 300 WM inside 500 yards but totally understand why you’d like to use it.

Some thoughts:
- see if the barrel will shoot factory ammo before dumping a bunch of $ in upgrades on it
- I’m not a fan of the scope you chose but it can work. Make sure you understand how to use the reticle and how magnification changes the subtensions on it
- HSM 168vld may be a good option, might be very splashy at RUM velocities for elk though. I’d look at the 180vld or any bonded/mono options for elk.
- Using smaller chamberings that allow you to spot impacts is the best way to get proficient at longer ranges. If you have a rifle that allows this, I’d shoot more with it at longer ranges for practice and try to duplicate and validate the RUM with your improved skill set. .223, 243, 6.5 creed are all good for practice.

 

[Wrench]

At 500 yards you won't reap much benefit of the high bc target type bullets.....and that thing is gonna be hauling ass, I'd err on the bonded or solid copper side.

You can find a ti take off stock for about 150 bucks every day. I'd shoot that in adl configuration or open it up for your bottom metal, bed it and rock on.

Bases deserve bedding at this recoil level.

Scope should have a tall target test if you're going to stretch it much past the 500 mark.....but honestly, a duplex scope on that fast of a rig will get anyone who doesn'st piss down their leg or flinch from recoil on a deer sized target without much worry.

A match bullet inside of 500 from a rum is akin to a grenade.....plan your shot accordingly.

 

[duckhunter175]

OP- for factory ammo you will be pretty limited-- HSM has 168 and 180gr VLD offerings- I ran the 180s with good accuracy from a 1-9 twist barrel at sea level so your factory twist barrel should spin them at 5280'.

Another really good and really affordable offering is the Barnes 145gr LRX-- I took almost a dozen animals with this bullet and only one made it anywhere besides straight down (lung shot doe that piled up 40 yards later). Very flat shooting at 3375fps and the lighter bullet doesn't recoil as harshly.

As for upgrades to the rifle-- before you do put a lot of money into it- decide if you will keep it or not. Because once you start adding stock, bedding, trigger, remove j-lock etc you've spent a pretty penny.

Get a stock from manners, mcm or AG composites with a high enough comb to get proper cheek weld and position and that helps with the recoil as well. Drop in a trigger tech and you're off to the races.

 

[Carlin59]

Thanks again for all of the great replies. I've decided to take this project in smaller steps. That means mounting the scope I already have, and shooting the gun as-is before tinkering with a new stock, trigger, or bolt. I'm going to start with the Barnes loaded Vor-Tx ammo (145gn LRX) and the Remington HTP (a 150gn TSX). I realize this isn't an ideal project to jump into learning LR shooting and there is a lot of overlap with the .300WM I already have, but I want to at least get this gun up an running this year for antelope and deer at normal ranges (<400), increase confidence at longer ranges from there. For next steps, what are some suggestions for a solid rail/ring solution, preferably with a level incorporated? Thanks everyone!

 

[ResearchinStuff]

if you're fixated on a level look at extreme hardcore gears options. Otherwise, Seekins rings and rails have been good to me, nightforce rings and rails are great, burris xtreme tactical rings (6 screw) work really well and are cheap, basically any pic rail except egw should be adequate.

 

[Afhunter1]

I’ve seen that stupid j-lock cause accuracy issues. If it was me I’d swap that first thing. It takes 2 minutes to do. When you pull your firing pin out the spring will be coiled up and look like a snake. That was a terrible design.

Then I’d roll with the rest the way it is for a bit.

 

[Savagenut]

Take a look at the graeboe outlander.

 

[260madman]

Ammo will be spendy, no way around that.

B&C Alaskan with the full bedding block is pretty decent.

The wart on the bolt shroud is replaceable and I’m not sure why it would be an issue with which stock you want to purchase. Never heard of it being an issue for stock fitment.

The Vortex scope is meh. Don’t be surprised if craps out on you.

Seekins for rings. Cheapest I’ve found them was Amazon. Buy a decent base. I’d skip EGW. They’re ok but there’s better ones out there. If you’re not looking for a rail Burris XTR Steel bases are good.

The cheap way is to get ammo and see how it shoots and then look at the stock and floor plate. It’s laminated and easy to modify. Replace the recoil pad with a pachmayr or limbsaver.