IRON WILL TUNING ISSUES?

[Ag111]

Send a pic of your arrow nocked on the string at rest. We can tell a lot from that.

 

[Ag111]

I would also shoot the BH and FP with the same EXACT arrow configuration. It looks like you used different fletching songs some of the shots.

 

[Amincey34]

I would also shoot the BH and FP with the same EXACT arrow configuration. It looks like you used different fletching songs some of the shots.

Sending now. Yeah that was day 5 of getting same results so I started testing everything .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DB29]

How can I tell?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Put lipstick on your vanes and shoot it. Look for lipstick transfer on the rest.

 

[Amincey34]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Amincey34]

Haven’t said it yet but seriously appreciate you guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Are your vanes wrinkly?

 

[Amincey34]

Are your vanes wrinkly?

Black marks from either target or maybe rest?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ag111]

Well first of all your bow is backwards! JK

 

[Ag111]

I don’t see anything crazy with your nock point or center shot which is good. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a drop away rest tied in that way but that might be a red herring. It is very possible that the timing of the rest if still off. This makes a massive difference and needs to be checked before any real tuning can be accomplished. The QAD needs to come up FULLY in the last 1” of the draw cycle. Don’t worry about the white line marks lining up, make sure that baby is UP ALL the way possible without creating a bunch on tension on the down cable.

 

[Ag111]

once you are happy with the rest timing and clearance, check that nock pinch. I would loosen it slightly to make sure that isn’t a contributing problem.

 

[houghtonic]

Well first of all your bow is backwards! JK

I was gonna say he is shooting with the wrong hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Amincey34]

Overall thoughts on ditching the rest and getting a limb driven?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[houghtonic]

Those black streaks on the vanes would make me check for vane clearance. Put lipstick on the leading edge of your vanes and shoot once. Check for lipstick marks on your cables and rest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[houghtonic]

Qad are fine. I have them on all my bows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ag111]

You can get the QAD to work, I wouldn’t replace it

 

[houghtonic]

When the shoo changed your rest cord, did they happen to change your peep location? Can you send a pic of how your peep is tied in? For a bow to change poi 10” at they distance for field points either the nock point was moved up/ rest was moved down or there is fletching contact or your peep moved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Amincey34]

Nope that’s the only thing that was changed went in to get arrows cut and the guy at scheels asked to check out my bow and check time I went in and he said “ whoever tied in your rest is dumb” I’m gonna fix it if you don’t mind. I said sure. He just ran the string on the other said of my bow. After that bow was wayyy off. 20 yard pin was in the the dirt 30 yard pin was now 20.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[houghtonic]

Nope that’s the only thing that was changed went in to get arrows cut and the guy at scheels asked to check out my bow and check time I went in and he said “ whoever tied in your rest is dumb” I’m gonna fix it if you don’t mind. I said sure. He just ran the string on the other said of my bow. After that bow was wayyy off. 20 yard pin was in the the dirt 30 yard pin was now 20.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This type stuff is why the only one touching my bow setup is me. Maybe you had too much tension on your cable before and it was causing your timing to be way off or the timing was compensating for extra tension from the rest cord and now it isn’t or new tie in is not picking up rest all the way. I’m betting on the latter. Put that lipstick on the vanes. Otherwise set your phone up to record you drawing back and zoom in to see if the rest comes fully up. If it doesn’t come fully up, then your vanes could be hitting. Did he say your draw stops are hitting same time now?

If the only thing that was altered was the rest tie in, then either the rest is now improperly timed causing fletching contact or your cams are out of sync, causing a nock high tear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cjdewese]

Do the check for vane clearance. Lipstick or foot powder, it will rub off on your rest if you have issues.

I dont see a way to keep that cord from pulling up on your cable. Usually its tied in with serving above and below to lock it into place.