I have been called opinionated and blunt more times than I can recall...
I would not recommend Keen Targhee II boots if I thought anyone might need to rely on them. Maybe the Targhee 3's are better, but the 2's I wore one year sucked.
Targhee II's?? Great and Rugged looking when strolling down the streets of Manhattan or walking on a path.
Almost useless in the steep backcountry.
Targhees II's are no more than fancy tennis shoes with a big rubber toe and stylized like boots. I read a lot of "reviews" and was convinced they would be a great boot the first year I went to CO for elk. I did not realize those reviews were written by people who hike and mostly stay on trails, not backcountry hikers/hunters who are off-trail 99 percent of the time, with heavy backpacks in steep terrain where the demands are different and can be extreme.
So, I tried Targhees the first year I went out in CO backcountry and I will never, ever use that "boot" again for any sort of a serious back country hunt or hike. Period. Almost worthless, in-fact, they are dangerous in really steep terrain. That boot put me real trouble at almost 12k ft in CO, while trying to crest a steep ridge. I learned a valuable lesson on that hunt RE what backcountry hunters' boots need to deliver to be safe and give hunters the confidence and the ability to navigate difficult terrain (further below).
Targhee's have zero ability to toe kick a toe hold into a steep hill to give you a foot hold when you desperately need it in really steep terrain.
Targhee's sole has no more torsional stability than a cheap tennis shoe when you are edged-in and side hilling. They have zero ability to side kick a step in a steep when side-hilling in thick mountain sod or heavy soil. The sole edges too round and unsupported.
Targhee's heel design is rounded in the back and has no differential step/transition where it merges with the boot sole. That heel design is almost worthless when descending, you cannot expect to use it to cut in, nor to brake when descending.
That oh-so-rugged looking rounded toe is a horrible design. The toe and side tread are so far set back from the rounded bumper toe and the boot's tread edges on the front and sides are so rounded that you simply cannot cut a foothold to get safe purchase to climb anything steeper than an escalator at a big box store. Combine that with the torsional stability of a pair of 20 year old Chuck Taylor's and you'll be fine until you get off trail and start cutting your own path in steep terrain.
Targhees 2's have ZERO structural integrity/rigidity. You can grab a Targhee boot toe in one hand and the heel in another and twist the sole like a pretzel. Any boot sole that weak will NOT provide reliable support when the chips are down in steep terrain, especially with heavy pack.
I strongly encourage you to get real boots. There are many good boots out there, here's what you need:
Sole- Torsional stability. You'd better not be able to twist it much, if at all in your bare hands. Toe and boot edges should be square edged and rigid so you can kick in a step or toe hold into tough, hard soil. The sole and upper and lacing system should combine to allow you to stand with your full weight on small perimeter edge of the boot without having the boot twist and collapse around your foot.
Heel- The heel should have a clear, sharp edge at all sides, especially the front leading edge where it joins the forefoot. You need clean, sharp/square edges in order to descend safely or side-hill. If the heel has a sharp step/edge where it merges with the sole, that will help you with your braking when descending so your boot will be less apt to slide/slip forward.
Tread- aggressive, square edged pattern is what I personally like.
Insoles- Strongly encourage you to toss the stock insoles and get aftermarket insoles. Aftermarket insoles will better "lock" your arch in place in the boot, this will keep your foot from sliding forward in the boot when descending steep terrain with a backpack. IF your foot is not locked in the boot and it slides forward when descending, you will eventually toe-jam your toenails and risk ending your hunt. Good insoles also will allow you to back off the tension of your boot laces just a bit. There are lots of good insoles out there- I use SOLE brand, Dean Karnazes model, heat moldable insoles. Best thing I ever did. Never a blister, never any toe jam. I cannot endorse them enough. I usually have to heat and mold them 2x before they are rightous. I have heard that they changed their formulation and that this may have effected their durability so I encourage you to read up on that.
Boot choice is very personal, as pointed out by prior posters.
My brother uses Cripis and so do I. I have also had good success with Asolo Fugitive Goretex , Lowa Camino GTXs and Lowa Tibet GTXs. I like the Asolo boots best in archery season, they are pretty light so I can climb with less effort, yet rigid enough to sidehill or toe kick when needed. Not too expensive either. In the steepest terrain, I like the Caminos. If colder, the Tibets (but they are heavy). I like the Crispis in steep terrain- they are my new favorite (Crispi Colorado model).
Again, there are a lot of other fantastic (real) boots out there.
Remember this- if you do buy real backcountry boots, they will need to be broken in and this may take many miles before you hunt. Tibets and stiff boots like them take miles. My Tibets took 30+ miles, plus a good soaking of the exterior leather while hiking helped a lot. My Crispi, Camino and Asolo boots broke in in a weekend.
PM me with specific questions.
Best,
JL