Mathews V3 Tuning Issue. Top Hat Issue???

Jauwater

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I purchased a V3 a couple months ago, and just got new strings put on so I figured I'd tune it up.

Well after 200 shots through paper, changing my rest, and trying to grip the bow 5 different ways, I finally started looking at the top hats. If I'm seeing this correctly, one top hat on top, and bottom is slightly wider then the other. I hear people swap these around rather then move the rest. What I'm seeing on my bow is the top cam has the wider top hat on the right side, and the lower cam has the wider top hat on the left side.

My question is, is it common for them to be installed that way? Or are they normally installed with the wider spacers on same sides?

Thanks in advance.

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Jauwater

Jauwater

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Both ways.


The top cam makes changes faster than the bottom cam.
Thanks Billy

If I was gonna try to correct a slight right nock tear. Would you recommend that I make it to were both wider top hats are installed on the right side? It doesn't seem that'd make that large of a correction. But I was thinking of starting there.

I'm a righty, btw.

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A nock right tear you move cams right.

I'd probably go ahead and move whichever shim puts both the skinny on the right. Then see what it needs.
 
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Jauwater

Jauwater

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A nock right tear you move cams right.

I'd probably go ahead and move whichever shim puts both the skinny on the right. Then see what it needs.
Ahh, yes, wth was I thinking. Cam to the right

Man, over the past two days searching Google I've came across maybe 15 or so of your responses to other guys archery issues. You've helped me out a bunch. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thanks again.

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Ahh, yes, wth was I thinking. Cam to the right

Man, over the past two days searching Google I've came across maybe 15 or so of your responses to other guys archery issues. You've helped me out a bunch. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thanks again.

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It's all a learning experience. For the most part I think everyone tries to help everyone out around here.

Good luck.


Feel free to pm me with questions if you want, I'll help best I can.
 

OR Archer

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I’d highly recommend getting a complete top hat kit for tuning. This will give you more combinations to get the best tune possible. Just swapping the stock ones isn’t always enough or it ends up being too much.
 

BBob

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When I bought my V-3 I grabbed the top hat kit. Damn if I’m the lucky odd ball that didn’t need them so now I have an expensive little kit in my box. If I send them back I’ll end up needing them down the road. Analysis Paralysis, what to do? What to do? 🤣
 
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op you can buy the kit from lancaster if needed

 
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Jauwater

Jauwater

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I think I'll definitely be picking up one of those top hat kits. Hopefully I can get one locally from a proshop. Well, hopefully moving that one cam for now straightens it out.

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bober90

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Have a similar issue with my VXR. This is the second set of strings I’ve put on this bow, but first time encountering the yoke touching the cam at full draw after checking in my draw board. I’m curious if the top hats resolved your issue or if there’s anything else I should try.

Bow is restrung, confirmed cable and string routing, and timing. Also confirmed ATA with new string and I’m at 28 1/16”. Pictures below of bow at rest and in the draw board.

image_50439937.JPG

Bottom Cam at rest:
image_67197441.JPG

Bottom Cam at Full Draw
image_67196673.JPG
 
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Jauwater

Jauwater

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I believe I did switch out the top hats, which helped align everything up, but I don't think that straightened out the issue.

I believe I had pulled the string, and cables off and retwisted them back to factory specs. I'm pretty sure after that was when that bow started shooting right again. And was able to paper tune without issue.

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bober90

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Thanks for the info. I pulled the strings and cables and measured and they all passed the eyeball test. Biggest thing was making sure the yokes and cables were equal length and the appear to be.

Restrung and same result at full draw. I then swapped the top hats around on the bottom cam and it doesn’t to be touching during the draw cycle now. Maybe 1/16th of an inch gap. I decided to shoot a bare shaft through paper and it was a bullet hole from 10 feet.

I’ll certainly keep an eye on it, but it seems the problem may be solved.

Thanks!


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Yea. Even pulled the yokes and realigned them several times. After adjusting and checking, it was still rubbing on the cam at draw.


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Have you tried returning it yet? Or rather double checked the tune. Most of the SW seem to need a retune after changing string/cables. I think it's cause it's about impossible to get the cable back on the donut just right. If it wasn't a factor before, there's something that has changed, likely it's the orientation of the cable on the donut, even just slightly. You can shift the cable on the donut, you want to make sure you keep the bottom of the donut 90 to tge string, but you can cheat the cable a little towards the cable guard.

Check tune first, see if it needs Top Hat adjustment, then go the route of playing with donut/cable if everything is good. You will need to double check everything if you adjust the donut.
 

bober90

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You can shift the cable on the donut, you want to make sure you keep the bottom of the donut 90 to tge string

Just to be sure, you’re saying the donut is 90 to the yoke? Or the donut is 90 to the main string?

And if the main string, how do you adjust that? Take twists in or out of the cables?


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Just to be sure, you’re saying the donut is 90 to the yoke? Or the donut is 90 to the main string?

And if the main string, how do you adjust that? Take twists in or out of the cables?


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The donut is supposed to be 90 to the main string.

You shift the donut on the yokes and where the cable wraps it.

Lower left pic.
tophats and cam lean.jpg
 
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