Spacemansams
FNG
- Joined
- May 7, 2018
- Messages
- 27
Wanted to get some opinions on what you guys think about mechanicals for elk hunting. This is the first year mech heads are legal in Oregon and just looking for some hands on info
I think carrying both as a solution for the type of shot that presents itself is a surefire way to miss out on your opportunity while trying to change to a different arrow.
I also think that you guys should explore tuning your arrows to the bow rather than just looking for a perfect bullet hole in paper and calling that your tuning. I can't understand how you cannot get fixed blades to fly if your arrows are properly spined and tuned to you bow.
I'm a heavy tinkerer. If I tuned the way I want to I'd be tuning all the time and not shooting. Some are better at tuning than others. Fixed blades fly close to my field points but that's to good enough for me. I often start chasing my tail during the final tuning and get frustrated. Without a trusted shop I prefer to work within my limits and feel happy about harvesting elk with cut on contact mechanicals when distance is needed.
But in an ideal world i'd be throwing fixed broadheads 60+ yards into a sub 2" group. My mechanicals do that well past my hunting distance. With my old setup I could stay on a pie plate at 140 with them. Sure made me feel better about a 50 yard shot.
Just say no to mechnaicals. If you can't get a fixed blade to fly with your field points, then you need to learn to tune your bow.
no bueno
Can you kill an elk with mechanicals? Yes, but I wouldn't advise it. Set yourself up with some quality fixed blade like cutthroat broadheads.
You can shoot sub 2” groups at 60 yards and less than 10” at 140 yards but can’t tune your bow to shoot broadheads? No way dude. I’m calling complete utter bull on that.
You should consider shooting professionally if you shoot like you say you can . . . .
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Such a difficult subject because there will never be an “answer”.
Shot my first bull with a mech, didn’t fully penetrate and spent a while but eventually found him. I’m done.
Two since then have been “tiny” 1 1/16” fixed blades. Zipped right through, left two holes, both elk down within 50 yards.
I’ve never understood the “cutting width” anxiety. A 1 1/16 with bleeders has 75%+ the cutting area as a big two blade mech, works anywhere at any angle, and if you can’t tune them to 80yds+ you shouldn’t be taking that shot anyway. That mech will not atone for bad shooting or shot placement, those are realities of elk hunting.
I've often wondered how many mechanical failures are due to deflections on low probability shots or long bone impact.
Was your shot broadside?