Smaller cutting diameter 2-blade mechanicals

[Blockcaver]

Probably because the smaller heads are already available in fixed heads, so a mechanical isn't needed in that size. I've shot a 1.5" fixed blade original German Kinetics Silverflame XL quite a bit. They shoot amazingly well, have shot them many times at 70-80 yards into targets and are always very close to point of aim.

I also shot a 6x6 bull quartering away with a 1.5" Ulmer Edge (Sevr predecessor) at 54 yards, that completely passed through and went through the humerus bone as well while landing 20 yards past the bull. Would have been liver and one lung hit most likely. Lost the trail in the dark and came back in the morning to find where he bedded. It was the last blood we found, and appears that the wound sealed up. He was eventually found much later .17 miles further away in a direction about 120 degrees from his original path. I won't use a 1.5" 2-blade again because of that. I've always preferred three blade heads, but just "had" to try those out. If I would have used my 125gr Spitfires or Fatal Steel heads instead (or even my Exodus), that bull most likely wouldn't have gone near as far.

Blood started out good......then dwindled to nothing when we lost it, then what we finally found the next morning where he bedded......then nothing. That last pic, the blood is about 5 feet across.
View attachment 675170View attachment 675171View attachment 675172

I had the poorest blood trails of any head I ever used in +50 years of Bowhunting everything in NA the two seasons I used Ulmer Edge 1.5” two blade single bevel heads. That said they did fly great and I shot a grizzly, several black bears, elk, whitetails, black-tails and Coues deer with them.

Give me a 3 or 4 blade head anytime but not a smaller two blade. YMMV

 

[CMF]

Why in the world aren’t you just shooting a fixed blade? You’re already okay with a smaller cut so that is your answer. Anyway I found a very small mechanical for you.

SwingBlade (3)

Swingblade broadhead

firenock.com

I am primarily shooting fixed. Been shooting the killer bee's 7/8". That's what I got my elk with this year. Trying the IW buffs this year. I keep mechs for windy days or long follow ups. I knocked a mech on my mule deer this year because the ground was frozen and crunchy and I had doubts I'd be able to get into 50 without being busted. I ended up shooting him at 55yds.
I've found the 7/8 kb to group the best of the fixed I've tried, but I think a mech would still group better on most days, especially with any wind.

 

[Bump79]

I do like the tip on those, I think that's better than most of the other designs.

I want a Sevr 1.2 with a 3/8 tip like the hyde, lined up with the rear blades.
View attachment 675148

While not COC the Sevr tip is super pointy is probably is right at 3/8 wide. At 1.2" I don't see a big benefit of shooting them over a normal fixed blade. If you talk to the Evolution guy he'll tell you he's made a bunch of different versions/cut sizes and he opted not to make a 1.5 this time around because the 2.0 was testing just as well. I'd just shoot their fixed blade at that point.

They'd probably sell like a hundred of these 1.2 heads... very very niche.

 

[Zac]

I am primarily shooting fixed. Been shooting the killer bee's 7/8". That's what I got my elk with this year. Trying the IW buffs this year. I keep mechs for windy days or long follow ups. I knocked a mech on my mule deer this year because the ground was frozen and crunchy and I had doubts I'd be able to get into 50 without being busted. I ended up shooting him at 55yds.
I've found the 7/8 kb to group the best of the fixed I've tried, but I think a mech would still group better on most days, especially with any wind.

Yeah I do the exact same. What about this one?

100gr 1.65" "Elk Assassin" Mechanical — Trifecta Broadheads

3 Per Pack .032” thick blade

www.trifectabroadheads.com

 

[Bump79]

maybe fantastic, but not as good as a mech.

I agree. But after it's open, wouldn't a smaller diameter penetrate further? potentially the extra needed to punch through...

I completely agree - not as good as a mech. But still fantastic - I still keep a mechanical in the quiver like you for those conditions but a larger cut which I'll dive into. The RAD LPV 3b or say a B3 Destrukt 3b have such little surface area it's comparable to a lot of mechanicals. Not as little as a Grim Reaper, Sevr or definitely not a Thorn. But nearly to a Rage, Trifecta, Killzone & Evolution with blades exposed. Check out the pic for reference.


If I was to pick one mechanical that fit the bill for what you're looking for it would be a Swhacker 1.5. They happen to be on clearance too. If you look at the design this version truly doesn't open till it's penetrated 3/4" or so meaning it punched through the ribs/scap before deploying. Then has fresh 1.5 cut blades in the cavity and a smaller cut than most for the exit. If I was to pick a mechanical for penetration - the design of this one makes the most sense. Get them as sharp as humanely possible and hope for the best. I'd say you still aren't guaranteed a pass through though.

#224 100 GRAIN 1.5-INCH CUT 2-BLADE LOW POUND PINK BROADHEADS 3-PACK

Buy Pink Broadheads - "Opens so fast...you can hear the Swhack!" 100 Grain Expandable 2-Blade Low-Poundage Pink Broadhead 0.875" in flight >>> 1.50" after penetration Blade: .032" thick, stainless steel, honed razor sharp Point: Hardened high-carbon steel Ferrule: Anodized aircraft aluminum...

swhacker.com

I'm not saying I'm correct but here's my thought process based on my experience with a Sevr 1.5. You're taking a lot of energy/momentum to open the mechanical - and a pass through after using that is not guaranteed regardless of what cut size. I shot a bull 2x two years ago and didn't achieve a pass through on either one but definitely got to offside. The first shot wasn't good and the second was as good as a quartering away 70 yd shot gets. I was really surprised that I didn't get a pass through on the first shot as it was only 25 yds or so and I usually fly threw things so fast with fixed and I'd heard how well the 1.5 penetrated. Not the heads fault but I had terrible blood and hit too far back. I found myself wishing that with my poor shot I had a 2.0 screwed on. A Sevr 1.5, 1.75 and 2.0 all take essentially the same amount of energy to deploy. Arguably less with the larger cut having a longer lever arm.

Let's look at John Lusk's data on the penetration of these 3 mechanicals to see what we can glean. These tests John does in cardboard and gel typically give a disadvantage to more surface area - so logically the losses shown from 1.5 to 2.0 are actually over stated in his tests due to drag. As you can see in the below table - the Sevr 1.5 does penetrate more. However, the gain in penetration over the 1.75 in PT1 is zero and only 5% in PT2 - effectively no loss in penetration for 17% more cut. The 2.0 loses only 8-9% over the 1.5 while gaining 33% more cut size.

For example - my elk shot with the 1.5 out of a high energy setup moderate/lower weight did not pass through regardless, I got a really good look at my arrow in him and it got to offside for sure (probably 13+). With this data I have no evidence that a 2.0 wouldn't have done the exact same thing and not passed through but cut 33% more tissue and maybe "touched" more vitals to make the recovery happen. My whole logic for using the 1.5 was to get better penetration on follow up shots. I feel like I only lost benefit with the 1.5 over a 2.0 now. I was left with one 1.5" hole vs one 2.0" hole. Another thing to note is on the Sevr pivoting is a benefit for penetration so it's not a 1:1 loss for increasing cut size to the 2.0. Also the 1.5 will pivot and needs a force larger to balance it back out (like a teeter totter). A 2.0 has longer lever arms and will be more likely quickly balance itself out. Also probably more likely to collapse per their design on super hard impacts though.

Food for thought - Not saying I'm right or wrong but based on my experience for mechancials I'll be using a 2" cut mechanical like a Sevr 2.0 or Thorn 1.75 with little to no blades exposed. At 80 yards my aim point is going to shift back just a hair to avoid bone as no mechanical will fare well at that range and the flight gained from those mech will help me hit close to that. The larger cut will hopefully make up for any errors and cause the most damage possible. I was actually messaging around with Sevr the other day and they recommended the same thing as in their testing the 1.5 didn't really have tangible gains in penetration over their 1.75 or 2.0. If I was to guess the 1.75 sales will overtake the 1.5 quickly.

 

[Bump79]

Mostly just wondering why a 1-1/16 cut is widely accepted for fixed, but can't find a 2 blade mech smaller than 1.5.

This is an interesting question. I'd say that an 1-1/16" is normal in 3 blade configuration but only recently gaining popularity in 2b compound applications and still only represents a tiny tiny fraction of the broadheads used. Personally, as we've previously discussed, I don't see the benefits of a 2b in this size when I can add blades and I'm still looking for my arrow 20 yards past the animal with a 3b/4b fixed. You might consider that if they aren't made - maybe you're trying to fix a problem that isn't one or is so statistically small people don't consider it as the downsides don't outweigh the positives.

I had this discussion on AT a while back and a guy had made some interesting 3b 1" cut mechanicals and had a ton of bucks on the wall from many years of small cut mechanicals. The juice didn't seem worth the squeeze to me but here's how KenW. did it:
1. Take a 100gr 1 1/4" Jak-Hammer and remove the factory collar.
2. Take a 100gr Jak-Knife (2 blade) and remove the factory collar.
3. Take a 100gr Select-a-cut Jak-Hammer and remove the factory beveled collar.
4. Take the Jak-Knife collar and the Select-a-cut beveled collar and put on Jak-Hammer 1 1/4"
5. Make sure beveled collar goes on 1st and align the bevels up precisely with the blades, install Jak-Knife collar last and secure to arrow. The 2 collars combined weigh exactly the same as the 1 factory collar and duplicate the same thickness to ensure the broadhead secures with plenty of threads in the insert. You now have a 1" cut, 100gr Jak-Hammer. With the bevels aligned with the blades it allows the blades to set back a little further, decreasing the cut diameter.

 

[Bump79]

Took me a minute to find this one - smaller 1" cut size but a 4 blade so idk if that fits your bill. Does has a unique adjustment system to adjust the cut size by laying back the blades. No idea if it's worth a darn but it's something to think about

SWAT VECTOR 4 BLADE BROADHEAD

swatbroadheads.com

SWAT VECTOR CP (chisel point) 7-SERIES BROADHEAD 3 PACK

SWAT VECTOR CP CHISEL POINT BROADHEAD 3 PACK

swatbroadheads.com

 

[Long Cut]

So many guys keep overlooking the fact that our shooting form breaks down in real life hunting scenarios.

Fatigue, adrenaline, low light, odd angles, stress, cold hands, wind speed & wind direction… all cause us to torque the bow to varying degrees.
A small profile mechanical, like a Sevr, will always outperform a fixed blade. There’s less surface area to catch wind, plane out and allows the vanes to “correct” any human imperfections.

Bill Winke, Aaron Snider and several other guys I have respect for admit they prefer mechanicals in hunting scenarios because they acknowledge their shooting form breaks down.

Don’t agree? Go run, hit some burpees, pushups, etc.. then shoot your fixed blades and field points at various distances. See where they end up.

 

[jbelz]

So many guys keep overlooking the fact that our shooting form breaks down in real life hunting scenarios.

Fatigue, adrenaline, low light, odd angles, stress, cold hands, wind speed & wind direction… all cause us to torque the bow to varying degrees.
A small profile mechanical, like a Sevr, will always outperform a fixed blade. There’s less surface area to catch wind, plane out and allows the vanes to “correct” any human imperfections.

Bill Winke, Aaron Snider and several other guys I have respect for admit they prefer mechanicals in hunting scenarios because they acknowledge their shooting form breaks down.

Don’t agree? Go run, hit some burpees, pushups, etc.. then shoot your fixed blades and field points at various distances. See where they end up.

I disagree, though I understand where you’re coming from. It depends on what you, as a Bowhunter, value. When form breaks down, you’ll almost always encounter torque. Torque = poor arrow flight (relative to what you’d see in the absence of torque). Torque produces point of impact shifts, usually left and right.

My experience has been that wonky arrow flight can cause significant problems with mech heads, namely penetration.

With a quality fixed blade, even on torque’d shots, you don’t have to worry about the broadhead functioning as intended. Penetration isn’t impacted as greatly, and I value two holes in the critter.

At best, it’s six one way and half a dozen the other. If torque produces a point of impact shift more forward on the animal, you’re better off with a fixed blade. If that shift happens a little back, a mechanical is probably advantageous.

 

[Long Cut]

I disagree, though I understand where you’re coming from. It depends on what you, as a Bowhunter, value. When form breaks down, you’ll almost always encounter torque. Torque = poor arrow flight (relative to what you’d see in the absence of torque). Torque produces point of impact shifts, usually left and right.

My experience has been that wonky arrow flight can cause significant problems with mech heads, namely penetration.

With a quality fixed blade, even on torque’d shots, you don’t have to worry about the broadhead functioning as intended. Penetration isn’t impacted as greatly, and I value two holes in the critter.

At best, it’s six one way and half a dozen the other. If torque produces a point of impact shift more forward on the animal, you’re better off with a fixed blade. If that shift happens a little back, a mechanical is probably advantageous.

Or will the vanes compensate and correct the arrow flight with a mechanical?
Will a larger COC fixed blade get thrown way off trajectory if the vanes cannot stabilize?

Just things to consider, PRACTICE and take into consideration.

There is no “right” or “wrong”, just what works best for YOUR setup and style.

 

[MattB]

This thread makes it seem like we are trying to put a man on the moon for the first time.

 

[jbelz]

Or will the vanes compensate and correct the arrow flight with a mechanical?
Will a larger COC fixed blade get thrown way off trajectory if the vanes cannot stabilize?

Just things to consider, PRACTICE and take into consideration.

There is no “right” or “wrong”, just what works best for YOUR setup and style.In a m

Or will the vanes compensate and correct the arrow flight with a mechanical?
Will a larger COC fixed blade get thrown way off trajectory if the vanes cannot stabilize?

Just things to consider, PRACTICE and take into consideration.

There is no “right” or “wrong”, just what works best for YOUR setup and style.

In a perfect world, vanes are just along for the ride. Hence the six one way, half dozen the other phrasing.

 

[Marble]

I am primarily shooting fixed. Been shooting the killer bee's 7/8". That's what I got my elk with this year. Trying the IW buffs this year. I keep mechs for windy days or long follow ups. I knocked a mech on my mule deer this year because the ground was frozen and crunchy and I had doubts I'd be able to get into 50 without being busted. I ended up shooting him at 55yds.
I've found the 7/8 kb to group the best of the fixed I've tried, but I think a mech would still group better on most days, especially with any wind.

Reasonable...I do the same thing. I carry 3 IW. S125s, 1 Kudu and 2 Sevr 1.5.

I carry the sevr for the same reasons. I also carry the kudu in case I have something I dont want to take the chance of losing my IW...

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

 

[camelcluch]

There is no magical head to get a pass through every time. It sounds like the head did its job. If going smaller than the 1.5” cut, shoot a fixed and tune your bow. There are plenty of heads that will fly past your hunting distances.

 

[V-TRAIN]

I love the 1.5" Sevr, I have shot them for several years with zero complaints.
I tried a G5 deadmeat this year, it is a 3 blade and was incredibly impressed.
I am going to try them some more in 2024.

 

[Bump79]

I am primarily shooting fixed. Been shooting the killer bee's 7/8". That's what I got my elk with this year. Trying the IW buffs this year. I keep mechs for windy days or long follow ups. I knocked a mech on my mule deer this year because the ground was frozen and crunchy and I had doubts I'd be able to get into 50 without being busted. I ended up shooting him at 55yds.
I've found the 7/8 kb to group the best of the fixed I've tried, but I think a mech would still group better on most days, especially with any wind.

Vortex TRIBUTUM (TRIBUTE) 100gr 1.50" Steel

This broadheads features a 100gr solid steel ferrule, with a hybrid blade design. The hybrid blade combines the best of both worlds with a cut on contact outer edge that measures 7/8" in the closed position, it then deploys to an 1.5" expandable. This broadhead uses our standard o-ring retention...

vortexbroadheads.com

These might be worth looking at for your criteria. Still 1.5" though.

 

[bojangles808]

Seems like if dead animals within 50 yards wasn't satisfying enough and you rly wanted two small holes and walking a lot further to find animals you could just shoot a fixed

 

[Sarcazmo]

I like the afflictor hybrids.

The setup seems to minimize loss upon opening (although some energy will be lost) they fly great Anna have a decent cut.

 

[5MilesBack]

Will a larger COC fixed blade get thrown way off trajectory if the vanes cannot stabilize?

If the vanes cannot stabilize your arrows with fixed blades, then you've got the wrong vanes on your arrows.

Just test your setup to see what happens even if you do torque the bow. Torque it both ways. I intentionally use a grip (all the time) that I easily replicate in all shooting positions/angles, etc, and I tune to that grip. That seems to minimize the effects of any and all contortions etc that I can come up with, and I practice with BH's out to 80 or 90 quite a bit.

Having said that, I have both fixed and mechanical heads in my quiver. But mostly because I really like 1.5" 3-blade mechanical heads. And at 70+lbs and 32.5"+ draw, penetration is not an issue regardless what I use.

 

[SilentPursuit]

Are there any 2-blade mech broadheads with a smaller cutting diameter than a Sevr 1.5? If so, post em up. If not why?
Fixed 2-blades are as small as 7/8"(the bare min in some states) to Iron Wills at 1-1/16", even the wide series IW is only 1-3/8". I think it's obvious why fixed heads aren't larger, but why aren't there smaller mechanicals?

I shot a mule deer with a Sevr 1.5 this year and like the mechs I've shot in the past, it didn't pass through. Earlier whitetail shots were with lighter arrows <400grn and larger mechs like 2". With a broadside shot, 480grn arrow, and 1.5" cutting broadhead, I anticipated a pass-through on this muley, but it didn't happen. He still piled up only 50 yards away, but my arrow broke and I feel like there is penetration to be gained by going to a smaller head.

If you’re fine with smaller cut size then wouldn’t the fixed blade be the way to go? I kinda thought that was the whole advantage of a mechanical so you can have a larger cut, that and maybe flying a little better in wind. It also is dependent on what you’re hunting and your personal preference. I went with Tooth of the Arrow 2 blade single bevel 125g but I’m after elk not deer although I still think it’s a head I could use in almost all the hunting I’ll be doing. They fly great so far but I’m still waiting for a good windy day to test BH. With a well tuned bow I think you’re just splitting hairs.