Milled Tikka action

gbflyer

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I just finished my action, and I think I have wrecked it. My thinking was that as long as I didn’t do anything in-front of the bolt face I would be ok. But my gunsmith was not sure if the .025 deep radius flutes behind the bolt face would cause a weak point in the receiver and be dangerous. I have done the math on bolt thrust and all tikkas use the same action, a 300win mag has 14,226 psi of bolt thrust and the 280AI I am building has 10,894psi of bolt thrust. Besides testing with over pressure loads does anyone know of any ways to determine if this action is usable or scrap steel? View attachment 385222View attachment 385222

Sure looks cool. Get a good long string, tie it down and give it a go I guess.
 

Wapiti1

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I just finished my action, and I think I have wrecked it. My thinking was that as long as I didn’t do anything in-front of the bolt face I would be ok. But my gunsmith was not sure if the .025 deep radius flutes behind the bolt face would cause a weak point in the receiver and be dangerous. I have done the math on bolt thrust and all tikkas use the same action, a 300win mag has 14,226 psi of bolt thrust and the 280AI I am building has 10,894psi of bolt thrust. Besides testing with over pressure loads does anyone know of any ways to determine if this action is usable or scrap steel? View attachment 385222View attachment 385222
I don't think I'd worry about it. You're well back of the threads, and there is a lot of meat left in the ring. That isn't a pressure holding section of the action.

German smiths used to dovetail the front claw mount into the front ring on a Mauser. That cut makes yours look like a scratch.

Jeremy
 
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Sadler

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Mines doing fine. My only complaint is the longer mounting distance it made. If I did it again, I wouldn’t be as aggressive on removing the material at the front of the ejection port. I did have another recoil pin slot milled in to work with the sportsmatch rings and to make the ring base flush with the ejection port but the new mounting length made it so I couldn’t use my nxs 2-10 which sucks. The swfa 3-9 works well though.
 
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Any more info on how that 18” 6.5 prc setup is shooting? I’m looking to do basically the same build. Is that a xlr magnesium chassis you’re using?
 

Tahoe1305

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I have an anti on order but the lead time is about ten months so I won’t even have it until January 2022. So in the meantime, I’m going to see how light I can make this action.
Thoughts on your tikka vs the anti (assuming you’ve gotten it by now).
 
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Sadler

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Any more info on how that 18” 6.5 prc setup is shooting? I’m looking to do basically the same build. Is that a xlr magnesium chassis you’re using?
It’s still shooting about the same. Sub moa at around 2750. I didn’t get a chance to hunt with it this year since I was able to kill an elk with my bow but it’s still fun to shoot. Yea that’s an XLR chassis.

I also have a 16” version build in an anti action and it’s shooting 2625 with the same ammo so I think 18” is the sweet spot.
 
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Sadler

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Thoughts on your tikka vs the anti (assuming you’ve gotten it by now).
That’s a tough one. Personally, I like the tikka a little more. It’s mainly because of the bolt throw. For whatever reason that’s a sticking point for me. I’ll probably end up putting the anti build up for sale after season.

I haven’t shot them both extensively, about 1000 through this and another tikka and about 100/150 through the anti but I can’t tell enough of a difference to justify the price increase of the anti build. They’re both really smooth, light weight, have awesome aftermarket support and with the lighter trigger spring, the tikka trigger feels like a trigger tech. If I was to build something that required a long action I wouldn’t hesitate to get another anti/700 clone because that spanks the tikka in that department. But I just shoot 223/6.5PRC/300WSM so the tikka is perfect for me.
 

Reburn

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That’s a tough one. Personally, I like the tikka a little more. It’s mainly because of the bolt throw. For whatever reason that’s a sticking point for me. I’ll probably end up putting the anti build up for sale after season.

I haven’t shot them both extensively, about 1000 through this and another tikka and about 100/150 through the anti but I can’t tell enough of a difference to justify the price increase of the anti build. They’re both really smooth, light weight, have awesome aftermarket support and with the lighter trigger spring, the tikka trigger feels like a trigger tech. If I was to build something that required a long action I wouldn’t hesitate to get another anti/700 clone because that spanks the tikka in that department. But I just shoot 223/6.5PRC/300WSM so the tikka is perfect for me.

Dont forget 6mm creedmoor for the tikka. Thats exactly what my switchlug is. 300 wsm/ 6.5 prc / 6mm creed / 223 rem. Wish I would have thought about the sheep port before I had it built and doped in. Maybe one day ill send it in for milling.
 
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Sadler

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Dont forget 6mm creedmoor for the tikka. Thats exactly what my switchlug is. 300 wsm/ 6.5 prc / 6mm creed / 223 rem. Wish I would have thought about the sheep port before I had it built and doped in. Maybe one day ill send it in for milling.
Funny you say that. I was just looking at an LRI tikka bolt so I can shoot either 22 or 6 creedmoor next. Reading that 223 thread makes me want to shoot 77 TMKs or 88 ELDMs out of a 22 creed pretty bad!
 

crich

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Dont forget 6mm creedmoor for the tikka. Thats exactly what my switchlug is. 300 wsm/ 6.5 prc / 6mm creed / 223 rem. Wish I would have thought about the sheep port before I had it built and doped in. Maybe one day ill send it in for milling.
You have a thread about that rifle? Im close to having a 7rm donor turned into a switchlug setup.
 

Reburn

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You have a thread about that rifle? Im close to having a 7rm donor turned into a switchlug setup.

No sir there is some pictures and information out there about it but I havent ever made a thread per say.
Is there any specific information I can answer for you about it?

Last post I made with pictures. Ive added another barrel since then and also have a tequila orange XLR mg chassis for it that I like.

 
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crich

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No sir there is some pictures and information out there about it but I havent ever made a thread per say.
Is there any specific information I can answer for you about it?

Last post I made with pictures. Ive added another barrel since then and also have a tequila orange XLR mg chassis for it that I like.

No worries! If you dont mind Id like to chat about it a little over PM so I dont derail the OPs thread.

@Sadler action looks great. Did you or your smith look into any other places on the action to potentially gain weight savings? Much of it is deciding whether or not the juice is worth the squeeze.
 

Reburn

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No worries! If you dont mind Id like to chat about it a little over PM so I dont derail the OPs thread.

@Sadler action looks great. Did you or your smith look into any other places on the action to potentially gain weight savings? Much of it is deciding whether or not the juice is worth the squeeze.

Might as well just bump the switch lug setup thread so any questions you have are posted out there.
 
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Sadler

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No worries! If you dont mind Id like to chat about it a little over PM so I dont derail the OPs thread.

@Sadler action looks great. Did you or your smith look into any other places on the action to potentially gain weight savings? Much of it is deciding whether or not the juice is worth the squeeze.
I just asked him to make it as light as possible and showed him a picture of what I was wanting him to do.
 
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